How to "rough in" front end alignment after rebuild?

[Righty Tighty]

I apologize in advance if this has been covered, I tried searching for a while and haven't gotten an exact process.

I recently rebuilt the front end on the '74 Barracuda, and I need to get the alignment close so that I can drive it to the professional alignment shop for its final setting. I could trailer it, but I would like to learn how the process works. I checked the FSM, and there's a brief section where it goes over the steps, but I'm dumb and need it spelled out to me like I'm a first grader. I tried searching for videos, but most of what I've found is for aftermarket adjustable setups (mine is stock).

When I prepared the new parts for reassembly, I measured the old tie rods and adjusted the new ones to that length. I also adjusted the torsion bars to set the ride height. I put everything back together and the wheels are WAY off. There is obvious negative toe, and the camber needs to be adjusted.

Now where I'm confused is where the FSM talks about caster and camber, it says to adjust the cam bolts on the upper control arms. I don't understand how the cam bolts will adjust BOTH caster and camber. I can see how they'll adjust camber, but caster?

And lastly, I'll adjust the tie rod sleeves for toe-in/toe-out. This step seems pretty simple -- lengthening the tie rod sleeve will give me toe-in (+), shortening will give me toe-out (-). Is that right?

 

[roccodart440]

Get the toe in toe out close. THey make plates for it, you can use a string, etc.

YOu could set the camber to 0 degrees.

Unsure how you could mess with castor without any tools, and it won't mater for your short trip

 

[Darter6]

Rotating your cam bolts the same amount front and rear will change the camber only.
Rotating only one cam bolt front or rear will change caster AND camber.
Rotating the front cam out (away from the engine compartment) and rotating the rear cam IN the same amount will change caster. Now in both cases though you will affect the camber some.
The science is not exact. The factory specs always gives you a range + or - and really if you are close to the spec range you are good to go.
As far as a "Close enough,ruff in,till I get it to the alignment rack" I can give you a step by step if you want.

 

[Darter6]

And lastly, I'll adjust the tie rod sleeves for toe-in/toe-out. This step seems pretty simple -- lengthening the tie rod sleeve will give me toe-in (+), shortening will give me toe-out (-). Is that right?

Yes.
And your cam bolts for a start point make them centered both front and rear.

 

[Cuda Al]

Forward mount out, rear in.
May not be clear in this picture but I drove 50 miles with it like this and it drove perfect.

Alan

 

[Righty Tighty]

Thanks everyone.

This should get me close enough to get to the shop without ripping apart my tires.

 

[67Dart273]

Actually for not much more work you can align it yourself and NOT take it to the "professionals" who have suffered derision over the years, here, because they don't understand these old girls nor the difference between original specs and "radial" specs

Need a driveway alignment advice after suspension overhaul- just good enough to get it to the shop?

WHAT YOU NEED

1...A flat level surface, garage floor, etc. I don't have this, I block up my trailer level and use it for a rack
2....Front tire turning plates. google. Many ways to do, including greased sheet metal or salt between them.
3....an accurate angular tilt indicator, and you can buy these many places now. You need to attach this accurately to the front hub or front wheel and use it to set camber (in/ out tilt) and caster, which is figured, easy math, from two camber readings
4....A way to set toe. Crackedback on here has suggested nothing more than soda cans jacking up a pair of 2x4's layed across the tire so they are near spindle level, so you can measure across the car, front to back of the boards. Toe is simply the difference between front and rear of the tires, of course front is less

You set ride height first, caster/ camber together, and often you have to diddle them. You want the spindle tilted BACK at the front, so you want the upper A arm adjustments pushing the front of the arm OUT, and the rear IN. Diddle it to get best compromise between caster and camber

Use the "skosh chart" in the All-par article "turn of the screw"

Turn of the screw: front end alignment for performance...


Skosh chart

My old Ammco caster camber gauge. A camber gauge does not actually MEASURE caster. They measure the tilt, which is camber and it is essentially a circular slide rule which calculates caster from two angular tire readings. IT IS SIMPLE

Example of a tilt "camber" gauge

If you want to buy a "real" caster camber gauge, google Longacre. They are decent, I'm told. Or look for a used one locally on C/L etc

My modified ebay one man toe gage. You mark the tires by rotating against a scratch device, which marks them and generates a plane Essentially it is just a bar with two adjustable nails so you can "one man" measure accurately

 

[rklein383]

I bought alignment plates similar to this and worked great. One alignment and they are paid for. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09BQ5VSHV/?tag=fabo03-20

I also made some DYI alignment plates by putting grease between two commercial floor tiles.

 

[jbc426]

First things first. Set your ride height. Make sure you let it settle between adjustments by driving the car a very short distance, preferably over a good jounce producing bump or two.

Also, don't fully tighten the bushings to spec until the suspension height is set.

 

[Darter6]

they don't understand these old girls nor the difference between original specs and "radial" specs

I agree, unless you have a guy that knows old cars you might be better off doing it yourself like the guys stated above. I started way back in 1973. I have my own turn tables, bubble gauges, and trammel bar toe gauge.
Used tools don't cost much and =

One alignment and they are paid for.

 

[Righty Tighty]

I agree, unless you have a guy that knows old cars you might be better off doing it yourself like the guys stated above. I started way back in 1973. I have my own turn tables, bubble gauges, and trammel bar toe gauge.
Used tools don't cost much and =

Yesterday I found a guy in town that supposedly specializes in old cars, and he came highly recommended, so I gave him a call. He's booked until June 20, so that's when my appointment is. I usually take it as a good sign when businesses have to book you days or weeks out. When I spoke with him on the phone, I asked if it would help if I brought specs for him, he said no need, the numbers are all in his head. And that he's been working on these cars since they were new.

I remembered that I bought this old thing and have never used it, but I'm uncertain as to how I'll mount it with my banged up dust caps...

 

[cudamark]

Yesterday I found a guy in town that supposedly specializes in old cars, and he came highly recommended, so I gave him a call. He's booked until June 20, so that's when my appointment is. I usually take it as a good sign when businesses have to book you days or weeks out. When I spoke with him on the phone, I asked if it would help if I brought specs for him, he said no need, the numbers are all in his head. And that he's been working on these cars since they were new.

I remembered that I bought this old thing and have never used it, but I'm uncertain as to how I'll mount it with my banged up dust caps...
View attachment 1715938865

I used to have one of those. You pull the grease caps off first to use it.

 

[Righty Tighty]

That makes perfect sense, thanks!

 

[67Dart273]

Yesterday I found a guy in town that supposedly specializes in old cars, and he came highly recommended, so I gave him a call. He's booked until June 20, so that's when my appointment is. I usually take it as a good sign when businesses have to book you days or weeks out. When I spoke with him on the phone, I asked if it would help if I brought specs for him, he said no need, the numbers are all in his head. And that he's been working on these cars since they were new.

I remembered that I bought this old thing and have never used it, but I'm uncertain as to how I'll mount it with my banged up dust caps...
View attachment 1715938865

You remove the caps, most of those are magnetic, sometimes there are adapters needed between the tool and the hub. You snug up the bearing adjustment to remove play, and it normally "sticks" right to the hub. Make sure the hub is clean and without sand, grit, etc, or damage

If for some reason you want to sell that and we can agree, I would be interested

 

[Righty Tighty]

You remove the caps, most of those are magnetic, sometimes there are adapters needed between the tool and the hub. You snug up the bearing adjustment to remove play, and it normally "sticks" right to the hub. Make sure the hub is clean and without sand, grit, etc, or damage

If for some reason you want to sell that and we can agree, I would be interested

This is indeed magnetic. I appreciate the interest, but I’d really like to learn to use it.

Today has been a **** show of inefficiency, so I don’t think I’ll be able to get to it until my next day off.

 

[Darter6]

You pull the grease caps off first to use it.

You will find instructional videos on how to use the bubble gauge on You Tube !

 

[67Dart273]

This is indeed magnetic. I appreciate the interest, but I’d really like to learn to use it.

Today has been a **** show of inefficiency, so I don’t think I’ll be able to get to it until my next day off.

Looks to me like the destructions are right there. Post the model, isn't that a Snap on? There might even be destructions online

 

[Righty Tighty]

Wouldn’t ya know it, works great if you remove the dust caps! I know I need the wheels mounted to use the gauge, but I have them removed for adjusting the cam bolts. Just thought I’d pop it on for the photo opportunity.

 

[Righty Tighty]

Looks to me like the destructions are right there. Post the model, isn't that a Snap on? There might even be destructions online

It’s the Wheel-O-Matic WA601. The destructions are indeed included, I just haven’t gotten to that yet.

 

[ACME SS]

I agree with those who encourage you to do it yourself. It is very simple and nobody these days knows anything of any use to mankind... like how to align a car without a computer.

For measuring caster it is handy to have turn plates but a couple sheets of wax paper under the tire will work too. I purchased turnplates from harbor freight years ago but don't think they sell them anymore. You don't need turnplates, they simply allow you to take the wheels with the steering unlocked and turn them in and out 15* without getting up and reaching into the car or walking around it.

 

[Righty Tighty]

Well, I adjusted the upper arms as @Cuda Al suggested at took it around the block. Much, much better. I think I still have some work to do, but with so much improvement after that simple adjustment, I think I can do this.

I’m out of time today, but next day off I’m going to try the other suggestions mentioned here. FABO never disappoints.

 

[Kern Dog]

Forward mount out, rear in.
May not be clear in this picture but I drove 50 miles with it like this and it drove perfect.
View attachment 1715938785


Alan

This is exactly how I set up every car that I do.
THIS car.....

Was wrecked and needed a front stub....

I did the work in my garage using floor jacks and jack stands.
When I was done with it, I set the front UCA cams OUT to the fender and the rears IN to the engine. I have not been to a shop for alignment but it tracks straight and does not pull to either side.

 

[ACME SS]

Wouldn’t ya know it, works great if you remove the dust caps! I know I need the wheels mounted to use the gauge, but I have them removed for adjusting the cam bolts. Just thought I’d pop it on for the photo opportunity.

View attachment 1715938914

I was thinking this tool looks awesome but then it would not work with wheels that you can not access the dust cap when they are installed, or am I missing something?

 

[Righty Tighty]

That's how I see it as well.

 

[MOPAROFFICIAL]

Level, Tape measure , 2nd set of eyes.
Make the wheels/tire look 90 to the ground with car resting and bounced to settle.
Set the wheel tow straight with the left/driver 1st..then dial in the pass side.
You won't get all right, just close.
The strut system on newer cars is much easier because you can just 'if the entire suspension isn't worn' mark around the nuts n washers with a sharpie and simply reinstall them inside/lining up with the marks.

Good luck