I've been looking but I haven't really found a good answer. I am running a magnum smallblock with the magnum serpentine belt. I've had 3 Inline electric pumps fail in less than 2 years. 2 generic electric pumps and an edelbrock. What is a quality inline pump that isn't going to die on me within a year? I'm running an edelbrock carburetor. I read that the edelbrock inline pumps were garbage. Is anyone else running an electric pump with the magnum serpentine belt?
Electric fuel pump failure. Recommendation?
- Thread starter alpha13
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How are those two things related?
How did you have it powered?
Professor Fate
Push the button, Max...
Running the Magnum serpentine belt drive requires running the Magnum timing cover.
The Magnum timing cover has no provision for a mechanical fuel pump. Therefore, an electric pump is needed- either inline or in tank.
Yeah, v--belt or serpentine belt makes no difference. With a Magnum cam you have to run an electric fuel pump or, use a Hughes cam snout extension.
I run a v-belt on my Magnum and origally ran a Carter electric fuel pump. It didn't last long, so I bought a Holley 1791 electric inline fuel pump and it lasted over 3 years.
I bought and installed a Hughes cam snout extension and put in a mechanical fuel pump. (I used a 1970 timing cover when I built the engine and had it blocked off while running the electric fuel pump so all I to do was remove the block off plate.)
I only have experience with those two but the Holley ran flawlessly.
I run a v-belt on my Magnum and origally ran a Carter electric fuel pump. It didn't last long, so I bought a Holley 1791 electric inline fuel pump and it lasted over 3 years.
I bought and installed a Hughes cam snout extension and put in a mechanical fuel pump. (I used a 1970 timing cover when I built the engine and had it blocked off while running the electric fuel pump so all I to do was remove the block off plate.)
I only have experience with those two but the Holley ran flawlessly.
How do you have the pump mounted? It should be mounted as close to the tank as possible and below the lowest fuel level. This makes it very easy on the pump as they are designed to push, not pull. Anything that makes it more difficult for the pump to pull can and will shorten its life span.
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TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
That ^^^^ is the info we need. Can’t believe it took so long for someone to say it. Well done @RustyRatRod.
@alpha13 where is the pump mounted? Is it pushing or pulling? Is it pulling fuel uphill? What filters do you have? Where are they? To answer your question, the little edlebrock pumps are just fine. I’ve had one PUSHING fuel on my run stand for years. Mounted and wired correctly they last a long time.
@alpha13 where is the pump mounted? Is it pushing or pulling? Is it pulling fuel uphill? What filters do you have? Where are they? To answer your question, the little edlebrock pumps are just fine. I’ve had one PUSHING fuel on my run stand for years. Mounted and wired correctly they last a long time.
The best, most reliable inline are Carter, Carter or.....Carter. The only external pump that I am aware of that:
- has the fuel circulating through the elec motor section
- which lubes & cools the brgs
- because of the all-in-one casting [ between pump & elec section ] has NO seal to leak/wear out
- was on a daily driver for 19 yrs. Replaced, not because it failed, but because the owner thought it had earned it's 'retirement'.....
For up to 500 hp, use the #4594; over 500 hp use the #460X [ two models to choose from ]
- first released in 1969, design has not changed.
One of the biggest pump killers is putting HUGE pumps [ like 400 gph ] on an engine that only uses 50 gph.
- has the fuel circulating through the elec motor section
- which lubes & cools the brgs
- because of the all-in-one casting [ between pump & elec section ] has NO seal to leak/wear out
- was on a daily driver for 19 yrs. Replaced, not because it failed, but because the owner thought it had earned it's 'retirement'.....
For up to 500 hp, use the #4594; over 500 hp use the #460X [ two models to choose from ]
- first released in 1969, design has not changed.
One of the biggest pump killers is putting HUGE pumps [ like 400 gph ] on an engine that only uses 50 gph.
MoparLeo
NRA BENEFACTOR LEVEL LIFE MEMBER
Put the pump where it belongs. In the tank.No more troubles.
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I've had good results with Walbro pumps - now sold under the TI brand. You'll want to get one from a reputable seller like Summit; Amazon has a lot of fakes and very little interest in ferreting them out.
It's powered by switched 12 volt.
I will look into that holley. Thanks!
It is mounted on the frame rail near the tank.
I have regular fuel filters, the pump is mounted near the tank. I will have to push back on you a little considering your run stand. I'm driving this vehicle in all weather conditions all year round. I'm sure the pump would last great on a run stand where it only sees intermittent use. So it's just not an apples to apples comparison. See originally I thought that I needed to buy something more expensive and that would fix my problem, but it just hasn't. I'm not racing the vehicle at all so I didn't think I needed a multi hundred dollar pump to make it work well. I thought for sure the edelbrock would suffice but it hasn't been the case for me.
TT5.9mag
Two atmospheres are better than one
You can push back that’s fine, It’s an open discussion. You didn’t answer the questions though. “Regular” fuel filters means nothing. What micron are they? Are they in front of the pump or behind the pump. Is the pump GRAVITY fed by the fuel tank? As in NO pressure drop on the suction side of the pump. To reply to your pushback, I have (not just on my run stand) 8 electric pumps in use currently. Two aeromotive A750s, three aeromotive 340s, two 11209 aeromotives on our race truck, and the edlebrock on my run stand and I’m not killing pumps. The 3, 340s have been on my daily driver for more than 300,000 miles. There are things you have to pay attention to when mounting and wiring and electric pumps. Speaking of wiring you mentioned it’s powered by switched 12v. Is that through a relay with a dedicated feed (preferably 8ga or bigger) to the battery or alternator?
Exactly why I asked how it was powered in post #3.
I've used the Carter 4594 on several cars. Relatively quiet and never had one go out.
"By a switched 12V" Yeah ok. I'm done. LMAO
MMissile
Well-Known Member
I agree, if a person can afford it, and can do it.
autopar3000
Well-Known Member
I read a lot about inline pump failures, so when I went to EFI I put the pump in the tank. I bought the Tanks Inc EFI tank and a Walbro pump from them. The things already mentioned are important reasons why it's better... it's pushing the fuel, and it runs cooler being inside the tank and usually submerged in fuel.
And @Bewy's comment about using an oversized pump is so true. This is not the time to err on the side of too big / too powerful. You're not buying yourself extra reliability or better power because it's bigger than necessary, it will just burn up faster trying to push fuel you'll never use. I have to admit it felt weird buying the smallest pump they sell, but the documentation said it's good for up to 450 hp. I figured if my stock-ish 5.9 Magnum ever got near 450 hp it would be a miracle so I went with the 190 lph pump.
I also appreciate that an in-tank pump is way quieter than most inline pumps. I have about 4 years and 20,000 miles so far on my setup.
And @Bewy's comment about using an oversized pump is so true. This is not the time to err on the side of too big / too powerful. You're not buying yourself extra reliability or better power because it's bigger than necessary, it will just burn up faster trying to push fuel you'll never use. I have to admit it felt weird buying the smallest pump they sell, but the documentation said it's good for up to 450 hp. I figured if my stock-ish 5.9 Magnum ever got near 450 hp it would be a miracle so I went with the 190 lph pump.
I also appreciate that an in-tank pump is way quieter than most inline pumps. I have about 4 years and 20,000 miles so far on my setup.
Aeromotive 11203. First one lasted like 15 years. Bought a new one and saw Aeromotive has a rebuild service for like 50 bucks. I sent the old one to them and they said it was from 2006. They sent me a new one no charge. That's customer service! But as pointed out, lower than the tank. Pre pump filter and post pump filter. Use a relay and fat wires. You'll need a regulator and I'd suggest a return system. BTW on my street car. My race car has there A1000 which you can mount in tank!
Sorry I was busy with my son the last few days and working alot of hours. Wow that is alot of electric pumps! Haha. So I just use whatever stock fuel filters they have at the auto parts store. After looking it up they are 20 micron filters. The clear plastic ones. I have a filter before the pump and one under the hood near the engine. I'm sure there probably is a little suction going on since the pump is not directly in the tank. However, It's mounted as close to the tank as I could get it.
As for the switched 12 volt. It's just a 14 guage wire I ran to the back tied into the electric choke wiring at the front. Ground directly to the frame.I went to a manual choke so I figured it wouldn't hurt to run it off that. The pump draws 1 amp according to the description on summit racing. How should I have wired the pump? Does it really need an 8 guage wire dedicated? Sounds like overkill to me. The wires coming off the pump are 14 guage I believe. This is the first electric pump I've ever had to run on a car so please educate me if it should be done a specific way.
You think a return system is necessary for such such a low GPH pump? I believe it a 30Gph pump. If it's really necessary I could run one, I just didn't think I would need it for such a low psi and low gph.
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Never, ever use a returnless regulator on an electric pump that was not specifically designed for it. Otherwise you get the pump's maximum pressure between the pump and the regulator. A return type regulator lets the pump's output pressure drop to almost the same as the carb's. The other options are to use a pump with a regulator inside the tank or an electronic pump control that slows down the pump to match the pressure.
I followed the directions that came with the pump at the time and that's how they wanted it plumbed. Maybe that's why it lasted so long. And personally I had problems with vapor lock on a dead head system. As stated make sure you get a return style regulator.
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