Suggestion?

[circlepilot]

1965 225, on a test stand.
Well I've got the cam break-in period accomplished as per instructions by Hughes Engines. The break-in was done using "only" single valve springs. Now for the "suggestion." I'm trying to install the required "secondary springs" (inner) using the tool I have. I cannot compress the springs enough to install the keepers. I've got the valves held shut with compressed air and spring removal was easy, but the installation of the double springs "ain't workin." I sure don't want to remove the head (I will if absolutely necessary). I'm open for suggestions. This is the tool I'm using.
Norm

 

[ch1ll]

Make a "fork" that fits under the rocker shafts and over the spring with a long arm out the back toward the intake manifold.

 

[1WildRT]

https://www.amazon.com/MACHSWON-Compressor-Cylinder-Replacement-Engines/dp/B0CH3TVS3B/?tag=fabo03-20

https://www.amazon.com/MACHSWON-Compressor-Cylinder-Replacement-Engines/dp/B0CH3TVS3B/?tag=fabo03-20

 

[Charrlie_S]

I made a spring compressor out of two rocker arms, mounted on a shaft that bolted to two rocker stands, and welded a lever to the arms. The rocker arms do not touch the valve stem. They contact the retainer, with enough room to remove/install the keepers. Works great.
Similar to this. mopar big block valve spring compressor - Bing

 

[circlepilot]

Both of those tools will no doubt work. I didn't think about using the rocker shaft with a tool like in the pictures. (I guess it is reluctance to disassemble my rocker shaft). I knew I would get the answer here on the forum. Thanks Charrlie, ch1II and 1WildRT.
Norm

 

[Charrlie_S]

Both of those tools will no doubt work. I didn't think about using the rocker shaft with a tool like in the pictures. (I guess it is reluctance to disassemble my rocker shaft). I knew I would get the answer here on the forum. Thanks Charrlie, ch1II and 1WildRT.
Norm

I have so much "stuff", I just took an old shaft and rocker arms, and cut the shaft to straddle two stands. Then did some cutting and grinding on the arms to get the correct seperation.

 

[circlepilot]

I have so much "stuff", I just took an old shaft and rocker arms, and cut the shaft to straddle two stands. Then did some cutting and grinding on the arms to get the correct seperation.

I just did that no more than an hour ago. I used a 3/4" thick wall stainless tube. I also realized we have a very similar tool in our aircraft shop for doing the same thing on opposed cylinder engines. I'll have to modify it "slightly" to make it work.
Norm

 

[OttawaCharger]

I used that tool to do my springs recently. When you put it on the spring and before you start twisting on the top, turn the tool clockwise to wind it down onto the spring. This will in turn give more compression on the spring. I also found that on some of them I had to give the top of the tool a smack downward to kick the spring free of the keepers. Finally, using a tool with a magnetic tip helped in removing the keepers.

 

[middleagecrisis]

1965 225, on a test stand.
Well I've got the cam break-in period accomplished as per instructions by Hughes Engines. The break-in was done using "only" single valve springs. Now for the "suggestion." I'm trying to install the required "secondary springs" (inner) using the tool I have. I cannot compress the springs enough to install the keepers. I've got the valves held shut with compressed air and spring removal was easy, but the installation of the double springs "ain't workin." I sure don't want to remove the head (I will if absolutely necessary). I'm open for suggestions. This is the tool I'm using.
Norm

View attachment 1716418609

Those type of spring compressors are junk. I went through 2 to do both heads on my 318 with basically stock springs, no way you could do double springs with that type of tool.

 

[slantsixdan]

Those type of spring compressors are junk.

Mine (Lisle) has held up just fine for over three decades.

 

[circlepilot]

I made a spring compressor out of two rocker arms, mounted on a shaft that bolted to two rocker stands, and welded a lever to the arms. The rocker arms do not touch the valve stem. They contact the retainer, with enough room to remove/install the keepers. Works great.
Similar to this. mopar big block valve spring compressor - Bing

Hey Charrlie here is the carb.
Norm

 

[RustyRatRod]

Mine (Lisle) has held up just fine for over three decades.

No kiddin. I have one from KD that's about as old. I mean really, you have to know their limitations. Stock springs are "about it". I've lost count how many valve seals I've replaced using that tool.

 

[Bewy]

Am I missing something? In the carb pic above, I do not see the main air bleeds. Are they recessed into the holes?

 

[circlepilot]

Am I missing something? In the carb pic above, I do not see the main air bleeds. Are they recessed into the holes?

Charrlie wanted the pictures to identify the carb. I'm not real versed on Holley carbs. "main air bleeds" Where are the supposed to be located? This carburetor came to me from another member "all ready being modified" and was said to be 350cfm. Charrlie said he never heard of a 350cfm.
Norm

 

[Charrlie_S]

Charrlie wanted the pictures to identify the carb. I'm not real versed on Holley carbs. "main air bleeds" Where are the supposed to be located? This carburetor came to me from another member "all ready being modified" and was said to be 350cfm. Charrlie said he never heard of a 350cfm.
Norm

The numbers are usually on the air horn. However it looks like the airhorn has either been removed (cut/milled off). or it is a holley for a specific performance application. See if there are any numbers ( 4 digits) somewhere on the carb. The barrel/venturi look small. It is a double pumper, with center hung floats.

 

[1WildRT]

The numbers are usually on the air horn. However it looks like the airhorn has either been removed (cut/milled off). or it is a holley for a specific performance application. See if there are any numbers ( 4 digits) somewhere on the carb. The barrel/venturi look small. It is a double pumper, with center hung floats.

And the boosters appear to be epoxied in...

 

[circlepilot]

And there appears to be someone's name is stamped on the ring. "Mick or Mac Crane" ????

 

[circlepilot]

The numbers are usually on the air horn. However it looks like the airhorn has either been removed (cut/milled off). or it is a holley for a specific performance application. See if there are any numbers ( 4 digits) somewhere on the carb. The barrel/venturi look small. It is a double pumper, with center hung floats.

I'll look again this evening.

 

[Killer6]

This isn't the possible NAPCAR restrictor plate carb is it????

 

[vitamindart]

almost looks like the boosters are glued in? isnt 390 the smallest 4bbl holley offered?

 

[Bewy]

Main Air Bleeds [ MAB ], post #11. Look at the epoxied boosters. Between them is a Philips head screw, which holds the acc pump nozzle. To the L & R of the nozzle, you can see a small hole in the casting; going outwards from these holes, you can see a brass insert with a small hole. These are the idle air bleeds. The inboard holes are normally where the MABs are, similar brass inserts.....which are not seen......unless pushed down into the holes.

 

[RustyRatRod]

That's an OLD carburetor. It's a 390 double pumper and they've not made them in over 20 years. The main air bleeds are there, they're just counter sunk. IMO, there are far, FAR better carburetors on the market for your engine. Happy trails.

 

[RustyRatRod]

And there appears to be someone's name is stamped on the ring. "Mick or Mac Crane" ????

It's definitely a Frankenstein, but it started life out as a 4150 390DP. You can see how small the venturii are. That's a 390. I'd lose it for something else.

 

[Charrlie_S]

It's definitely a Frankenstein, but it started life out as a 4150 390DP. You can see how small the venturii are. That's a 390. I'd lose it for something else.

I was thinking a modified 390 DP but wasn't sure. I don't know if I would just dump it, as it is on the engine and running. I would give it a try in the car and see how it works, If it leaves something to be desired, I would probably try a 390 vacumm sec, or maybe a 500 eldelbrock (I have never used one of those but hear good reports).

 

[halfafish]

If it leaves something to be desired, I would probably try a 390 vacumm sec, or maybe a 500 eldelbrock (I have never used one of those but hear good reports).

I'm using the 500 AVS2 on my moderately improved slant in the truck. I like it a lot.