Help w/ '68 Dart front 10" Drum brakes

-

Dor-Dor68!

Member
Joined
Aug 9, 2025
Messages
24
Reaction score
26
Location
Los Angeles
Good Evening everyone,
I recently acquired a '68 Dart and about 3 days ago my brake pedal started hitting the floor and felt extremely soft while driving. The "brake system" light starting popping up every time I pressed the pedal. Luckily this happened when I was just 2 blocks away from home. So I knew something bad just happened my the brakes.
Once I was parked inside, I looked under the car and noticed fluid all over the right front passenger tire. So I figured perhaps a line or a cylinder.

So now that the weekend is here, I wanted to ask you all for some input...ive removed the tire and inspected to see where this leak was coming from. Nothing from the line and then I removed the drum to discover fluid almost everywhere.
Immediately I noticed that the wheel cylinder rubber ends were completely torn. So I have to replace it that for sure. I did order some parts from autozone; wheel cylinder(#33507)all in one kit(H7037) and few other things.
The shoes look like they still have life in them and the drum itself looks pretty good. So I will reusing the majority of hardware.(but let me know if you gents think otherwise)

Now before i start removing things i want to know if im missing anything, I did take some pictures of what im dealing with which I'll attach here and I also compared my brakes to the picture on manual thats on mymopar.com

I did see that my wheel cylinder looks like it does not have the pins(links or push rods) like on the books picture.
if anyone can clarify if im missing them, are they pushed into the old wheel cylinder or does this year have none(which i doubt). I measured my drums shoes 10x2.5....And I currently have 14" wheels on the Dart. Also, when I removed the drum, nothing fell out so thats my other predicament about the wheel cylinder pins.

Thank you and let me know before I jump into this, it'll be my first time tackling drum brakes and I wanna do it right.

20250808_110812.jpg


20250808_110802.jpg


20250808_110824.jpg


20250808_110832.jpg


upload_2018-3-14_15-21-28.png


20250808_110807.jpg


20250808_110820.jpg
 
Some brakes do not use pushrods separate. The pushrod so to speak is built onto / part of the shoe. I don't understand how you could possible have had a wheel cylinder leak at the cups and NOT douche the inside of the whole thing, including the lining. Are you sure it's not the hose/ loose bleeder/ broken connection or tube?

if you are going to refurb the cylinders rather than new ones, you need a brake hone, some good quick/ clean drying solvent such as brakekleen, of course the cylinder kits, and INSPECT them for excessive pitting, because pitting can cause them to leak, and you have wasted all that time and work. Make certain that you inspect/ replace the hoses and tubing as needed, and get the bleeders broken loose and wire probed so the passage is open. Also as old as these are, you may have "stuck" the warning light piston in one direction, and may have to play with that to re-center it. In the old days there was a tool--you removed the warning light switch, and screwed this little metal gismo in it's place, which kept the piston centered
 
Fluid was everywhere inside once I popped it open, was on the shoes and everything.
Luckily I made it home safely.
I checked all fittings and connection points...the hose is still intact with no cracks or dry rot( even the connections were dry too. I'll attach a picture of the back where the line connects.

I'll also post a picture of the cylinder itself, its not the best, but u can sorta see how the rubber is cracked/torn at the end of the cylinder.

And thank you for letting me @67Dart273 about some of the cylinders not using pins. I most likely have the shoes that has it built into it.

20250808_110824.jpg


20250805_110224.jpg
 
I advise doing both front wheel cylinders, and for sure replace the brake lining. The linings are soaked with fluid. This will keep the braking action equal in both front wheels, and have less chance of "brake pull".
 
My 67 has same brakes. It has been ignored a few years. Recently decided to move it, no brakes, won't roll. Found wheel cylinders leaked at both ends. It happens. You don't want to use linings that have been soaked with brake fluid. They could come apart.
 
well... you're missing the push pins. so, that's a problem.

and that means somebody put it together like that. with that level of bobo work, i'd be looking at everything with a hairy eyeball.

anyway, sounds like you're on the right path. R&R your wheel cylinders, get some pins, new shoes, check your drums, probably do wheel bearings and seals or repack them at the least. don't forget the cotter pin! double check your drop lines and master.

definitely take a lap around and have a look at the whole thing before returning to service.

btw, if you need assistance i'm in the SFV so don't hesitate to give a shout.
 
Thank Gents,
So I'm gonna start ordering additional parts today and replace both front brakes, shoes and cylinders. I rather play it say that way... @junkyardhero thank you, I'll definitely reach out if I get stuck, also do you know if there's a specific pin i should find? I saw an old thread here where they couldn't fine my years pins...what pins should I order??
 
I advise doing both front wheel cylinders, and for sure replace the brake lining. The linings are soaked with fluid. This will keep the braking action equal in both front wheels, and have less chance of "brake pull".
I'll definitely take your advice, I'll be doing a complete job on both front brakes and replacing the wheel cylinders too.
 

You might or might not need the pins. Some brake systems used the pins, and some did not. I don't rememberr off hand which ones were which. Need to look at the shoes and cylinders to see what you need. I have some of the pins (wheel cyl links) in stock for the 10 brakes. I got them from Dr. Diff. www.doctordiff.com
 
Last edited:
I can't seem to find the wheel cylinder links(aka. pins, p
You might or might not need the pins.I don't remember offhand, but some brake systems used the pins, and some did not. Need to look at the shoes and cylinders to see what you need.
I'm going to pull em off and see what I have, ive searched various sites and they dont seem to offer anything for my car, regarding the pins
If i do end up needing them, I'm going to try and order some that are close to my year. Unless someone knows where I can get some.

Totally missed the second part of your message @Charrlie_S
I'll check in Dr. Diff's site.
Thank you
 
Last edited:
I don't think your brakes use the pins. Look at the picture in post #3. The brake shoe has a "tab" that goes into the end of the wheel cyl. The wheel cyl piston should have a raised section in the middle of the piston that is in contact with the tab on the shoe. The pistons in the wheel cyl that use the pin, have a small round cup in the end of the piston, and those shoes have a "notch" that fits the pin (push rod), like in the illustration in post #1
 
I don't think your brakes use the pins. Look at the picture in post #3. The brake shoe has a "tab" that goes into the end of the wheel cyl. The wheel cyl piston should have a raised section in the middle of the piston that is in contact with the tab on the shoe. The pistons in the wheel cyl that use the pin, have a small round cup in the end of the piston, and those shoes have a "notch" that fits the pin (push rod), like in the illustration in post #1
Thank you, so let's say in the future, if I don't find the same brake shoes, would I need to move to using using actual pins?
I did order some new shoes and hopefully they're alike the ones I currently have. Had to find 10x2.5 shoes they dont seem to be very common.
 
DOR-DOR68 are you sure your brakes are 10 inch? I looked in the 1968 service manual and it shows the 10 inch brakes with the pins, but the 9 inch brakes without the pins.
If you want to talk on the phone, send me a private message, and I'll send you my phone number.
 
Thank you, so let's say in the future, if I don't find the same brake shoes, would I need to move to using using actual pins?
I did order some new shoes and hopefully they're alike the ones I currently have. Had to find 10x2.5 shoes they dont seem to be very common.
The front 10 in brakes were 2.25 wide. The 9 inch brakes are 2.5 wide
 
DOR-DOR68 are you sure your brakes are 10 inch? I looked in the 1968 service manual and it shows the 10 inch brakes with the pins, but the 9 inch brakes without the pins.
If you want to talk on the phone, send me a private message, and I'll send you my phone number.
I'll send u a PM
 
My 67 has same brakes. It has been ignored a few years. Recently decided to move it, no brakes, won't roll. Found wheel cylinders leaked at both ends. It happens. You don't want to use linings that have been soaked with brake fluid. They could come apart.
I've never seen glued linings come apart from brake fluid. The glue used is waterproof and brake fluid is water soluable. I've taken brake fluid soaked shoes and just dunked them into a pail of water for a few minutes, scrubbed them a bit, let them dry, scuffed them with some sand paper, and reused them with no problems. If they're riveted linings, that coming loose problem is moot. That said, in the OP's case with the wrong year parts, I'd get a complete front kit for his year and get it back to stock to make it easier down the road to get the correct parts. Looks like most of the hardware is okay from what I can see, but, I'd get the proper shoes, cylinders, and push rods for sure. I'm an old school, stock kind of guy and would also stake the drum to the hub and have it turned to complete the job. Chrysler did it for a reason, which from what I can gather, is to help dissipate heat and to keep out of round/warpage to a minimum.
 
I've never seen glued linings come apart from brake fluid. The glue used is waterproof and brake fluid is water soluable. I've taken brake fluid soaked shoes and just dunked them into a pail of water for a few minutes, scrubbed them a bit, let them dry, scuffed them with some sand paper, and reused them with no problems. If they're riveted linings, that coming loose problem is moot. That said, in the OP's case with the wrong year parts, I'd get a complete front kit for his year and get it back to stock to make it easier down the road to get the correct parts. Looks like most of the hardware is okay from what I can see, but, I'd get the proper shoes, cylinders, and push rods for sure. I'm an old school, stock kind of guy and would also stake the drum to the hub and have it turned to complete the job. Chrysler did it for a reason, which from what I can gather, is to help dissipate heat and to keep out of round/warpage to a minimum.
Im most likely going to do a whole rehaul and get it back to stock. Seems like throughout the years previous owner just mickey moused things.
 
Can't go much further without finding out for sure if you have 9 inch or 10 inch brake shoes.
By the way, is your car a slant 6 or v-8.
 
If you worked on cars for a living you would have seen brake linings come apart that hadn't soaked in anything. Linings cracked from rivet to rivet (someone will ask, "what rivets?"). These forums are filled with advise. You have to sort it. Good luck.
 
-
Back
Top Bottom