Help w/ '68 Dart front 10" Drum brakes

[Charrlie_S]

So I gotta jump back in there and measure again, I picked up this drum the other day and it was a perfect fit.
I might be doing something wrong.

View attachment 1716442243

I was able to back search the part number of this drum. You said it fit. This is for 9 inch brakes. If you had 10 inch brakes this drum would not go over the shoes.
So you must get the wheel cylinders and shoes for 9 inch front brakes. You do not need the link pins.

 

[Dor-Dor68!]

Thank you Charlie, so I have to order different stuff and return whats on the way.

 

[cudamark]

If you worked on cars for a living you would have seen brake linings come apart that hadn't soaked in anything. Linings cracked from rivet to rivet (someone will ask, "what rivets?"). These forums are filled with advise. You have to sort it. Good luck.

Cracks from overheating and poor quality bonding, sure, seen lots of that. Not from the glue dissolving though.

 

[Dor-Dor68!]

Update:

So turns out I have 9" Drum brakes that are 9x2.5, I was completely off due to some poor measuring and jumping the gun on parts too. Luckily, I went on FABO and a lot of you were able to help me out.

Thank you @Charrlie_S for taking the time out of your day last Friday and chatting with me on the phone. I'll definitely pick your brain very soon!

I was also able to see and figure that my wheel cylinders don't use pins and they use their internal mechanism to push the shoes outwards.
Those cylinders were also a task on their own just trying to get them out, but I was successful.
But after a few short hours, I was able to do both front drums; new shoes, hardware and cylinders and then bleed my brakes.
Now onto the next task!

I also want to thank those that gave me their input on this thread, I appreciate you all.

 

[Dor-Dor68!]

Some brakes do not use pushrods separate. The pushrod so to speak is built onto / part of the shoe. I don't understand how you could possible have had a wheel cylinder leak at the cups and NOT douche the inside of the whole thing, including the lining. Are you sure it's not the hose/ loose bleeder/ broken connection or tube?

if you are going to refurb the cylinders rather than new ones, you need a brake hone, some good quick/ clean drying solvent such as brakekleen, of course the cylinder kits, and INSPECT them for excessive pitting, because pitting can cause them to leak, and you have wasted all that time and work. Make certain that you inspect/ replace the hoses and tubing as needed, and get the bleeders broken loose and wire probed so the passage is open. Also as old as these are, you may have "stuck" the warning light piston in one direction, and may have to play with that to re-center it. In the old days there was a tool--you removed the warning light switch, and screwed this little metal gismo in it's place, which kept the piston centered

I successful swapped everyth for new parts and hardware, the warning light is no longer coming on when I press the pedal or use the brakes. Should I still inspect the piston?
If so, would it be alright if u point me in the right direction, I'd appreciate it a ton if you could.

 

[67Dart273]

If it seems to be ok and is not externally leaking, I'd leave it. Frankly, I see no need for those at all, here's why. If you get a leak in half the system, YOU are going to know it pretty quick because in the change of pedal behavior. You don't need a red light to tell you so.

 

[Dor-Dor68!]

If it seems to be ok and is not externally leaking, I'd leave it. Frankly, I see no need for those at all, here's why. If you get a leak in half the system, YOU are going to know it pretty quick because in the change of pedal behavior. You don't need a red light to tell you so.

Makes sense, so far everything is operational and the brakes feel good, I personally would like the pedal a little stiffer. I dont have a power brakes, so is that ok? Theyre not soft nor spongy but o feel like I might still have air in the line.

And ive checked and double checked after replacing the shoes and cylinders and lines...and no leaks so far