74 Duster, resto mod 6.4 conversion in Australia
- Thread starter Ozyduster
- Start date
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Thnakyou so that will fit straight onto my idler pulley mopar bracket?
Found the part list on the B body forum if you punch the part numbers into ebay look to come up with the correct parts
04627851AA is the grooved idler that is required for the PS delete. This will mount to 04593918AA.
BRACKET. Idler Pulley. 04593918AA $46.85
TENSIONER. Belt. 04861660AA $51.17
PULLEY. Idler. 04891720AA $18.63
PULLEY. Idler. 04627851AA $16.47
1 - BOLT. Mounting. Hex Flange Head. M10X1.50X55.00. 06104221AA $3.51
3 - BOLT. Mounting. Hex Flange Head. M10X1.50X130.00. 06104230AA $2.70
2 - SCREW. Hex Flange Head. M8x1.25x34. 06509487AA $2.50
3 - BOLT, SCREW. Mounting, Tension Bracket Assembly To Timing Cover Front, Tensioner To Bracket. Hex Flange Head, Hex Head. M8x1.25x30, M8X1.25X30.0, M8X1.25X30.00. 06104025AA $4.59
04627851AA is the grooved idler that is required for the PS delete. This will mount to 04593918AA.
BRACKET. Idler Pulley. 04593918AA $46.85
TENSIONER. Belt. 04861660AA $51.17
PULLEY. Idler. 04891720AA $18.63
PULLEY. Idler. 04627851AA $16.47
1 - BOLT. Mounting. Hex Flange Head. M10X1.50X55.00. 06104221AA $3.51
3 - BOLT. Mounting. Hex Flange Head. M10X1.50X130.00. 06104230AA $2.70
2 - SCREW. Hex Flange Head. M8x1.25x34. 06509487AA $2.50
3 - BOLT, SCREW. Mounting, Tension Bracket Assembly To Timing Cover Front, Tensioner To Bracket. Hex Flange Head, Hex Head. M8x1.25x30, M8X1.25X30.0, M8X1.25X30.00. 06104025AA $4.59
In the process of ordering the 12.19 inch wilwood kit for the front with the 4 piston forged dynalight dust boot callipers. I have to run dust boots to be legal in Australia.
Also having few issues welding the k frame, even though i cleaned the shizen out of it and even wire wheeled the plates where spot welded its catching fire and stuffing the welds due to the oil. So we are vapour dipping to remove all traces of oil then re weld. Then powder coat and i can finally fit the 6.4 Slow burn this build but running my own construction company, 2 kids and just purchased another home is making it hard going lol
Also having few issues welding the k frame, even though i cleaned the shizen out of it and even wire wheeled the plates where spot welded its catching fire and stuffing the welds due to the oil. So we are vapour dipping to remove all traces of oil then re weld. Then powder coat and i can finally fit the 6.4 Slow burn this build but running my own construction company, 2 kids and just purchased another home is making it hard going lol
Sorry, no idea. Looks like you have it sorted.
Well its slow progress as went to Hawaii for 3 weeks and process of selling home etc.
However the K frame is all welded and off to powder coaters, it looks so much better and stronger than the spot welded version before. Was a nightmare to weld the plates together as full of oil that would ignite and bubble and spit when welded. We even acid bathed it and still didn't clean it out. Very happy with the welds as have seen others and they didnt look much better than Mopars efforts. We have also gone over a lot of the factory welds
But welds have come up mint with the firm feel kit gusets all fitting nicely once i figured out where they all went
However the K frame is all welded and off to powder coaters, it looks so much better and stronger than the spot welded version before. Was a nightmare to weld the plates together as full of oil that would ignite and bubble and spit when welded. We even acid bathed it and still didn't clean it out. Very happy with the welds as have seen others and they didnt look much better than Mopars efforts. We have also gone over a lot of the factory welds
But welds have come up mint with the firm feel kit gusets all fitting nicely once i figured out where they all went
Dion R gave me the idea of running the Camaro fuel pump as very smart set up, pump essentially sits in a bucket so it always has fuel. After telling a mate he laughed at me and said thats the same pump as the local holden ve commodores. Sure enough local companies makes the adapter rings to use those pumps in retro tanks etc.
The hanger is on a spring to push it hard to floor of tank as works in different depth tanks
So purchased a set, start cleaning out the original tank with white vinegar in next day or so.
Then i will make a set down in the top of tank so doesn't hit the trunk floor.
The first ring welds to tank and then the second ring clamps the pump set up into tank
The hanger is on a spring to push it hard to floor of tank as works in different depth tanks
So purchased a set, start cleaning out the original tank with white vinegar in next day or so.
Then i will make a set down in the top of tank so doesn't hit the trunk floor.
The first ring welds to tank and then the second ring clamps the pump set up into tank
DionR
Well-Known Member
Just be aware that in my case the pump rods needed some extra springs and I have to extend the wires to the pump to get it to the bottom of the tank even with the recess in the top. I think the rods were long enough, but it's been a lot of years since I messed with it.
Feels like I should have said that in my other posts about it, but right now I don't remember if I ever did. Sorry.
Should be fine as the pumps can do up to 180mm (7 inches) so just need to make the drop down enough that pump height is slightly less than this. Did you use existing fuel sender or the one on the pump?
DionR
Well-Known Member
Haven't decided. I hate how the replacement senders work, and just pulled the original one out of the tank from my '73 so (in theory) I have a good original one to use. But the Camaro one is probably better tech and and with a Fuel Bridge I can make it work. My gut says to go with the one on the pump, but not ready to pick a direction yet.
Yea think will run the one on the pump as i am running autometer gauges which worse case scenario run a bridge with. What fuel regulator are you runing or is reg in the pump set up
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DionR
Well-Known Member
There is a pressure release valve in the basket that can (should?) be swapped for a regulator. The stock application uses PWM for pressure control and the valve is just in case something goes wrong. By switching that to a regulator, no external regulator is required.
But you need this piece:
Fuel Pressure Regulator Adapter, Gen 5/6 Camaro SS
Aeromotive Part Number: 63701Legacy VaporWorx Part Number: FPRAGM5 Fuel pressure regulator adapter for use with Gen4 Camaro 4bar/58psi pressure regulators ONLY on Gen5/6 Camaro SS fuel modules. Also fits Gen6 Camaro and CTS-V3 (2015+) fuel modules. Our own VaporWorx-specific fuel pressure...
aeromotiveinc.com
And a Gen 4 Camaro or a '96-99 C1500 FPR:
Note that there are cheaper options for the truck one. Those are just the P/N's suggested by VaporWorx (who is now owned by Aeromotive, BTW).
And you have to tweak the retainer as the FPR is slightly smaller:
Or this by itself:
Fuel Pressure Regulator for Gen5/6 Fuel Module - 60PSI
Aeromotive Part Number: 63102Legacy VaporWorx Part Number: FPRGM5-4B This VaporWorx specific mechanical fuel pressure regulator will provide 4bar/60psi for Gen5/6 Camaro fuel modules. No fuel pressure regulator adapter needed. Do not connect any hose to the hose port when used in-tank. Leave...
aeromotiveinc.com
The bucks up option is to use a PWM fuel pump control.
BoostWorx Returnless Pulse Width Modulation Kit, ZL1 Fuel Pump Module
Aeromotive Part Number: 66136Legacy VaporWorx Part Numbers: BWZL13B, PWZL13B-G8, BWCOYOTE-ZL1, PWZL13B The BoostWorx fuel module control system has everything needed to provide a stand-alone, OE-type returnless fuel system with constant or manifold referenced fuel pressure. For constant fuel...
aeromotiveinc.com
I already have the small adapter but not the FPR. Looks like I should have bought one awhile ago, the Delphi ones are more than the FPR from VaporWorx/Aeromotive that doesn't need the adapter.
DionR
Well-Known Member
Here are the full instructions for the little adapter:
Nice one looks like done you research, the holden ve pump is from late 2000s they have an internal regulator so no need for external or mods but will check its not a pressure release. Good as then i dont need return line etc as the hemi is a dead head set up. Ill run charcoal canister as need to for emissions so can run breather to that. Got my self benders and pipe straighteners, ill do hard lines with braided flex ends etc. Just going to purchase all new brake lines and make them fit.
So fitted the engine wasn't too bad, had to remove the drivers side pipe and potentially needs a little modification to make it fit nicely.
Removed the alternator as fowels the rail. Apart from cutting fold on the rail, are there any alternators that will fit?
Holley make a bracket system but its pretty ugly
Removed the alternator as fowels the rail. Apart from cutting fold on the rail, are there any alternators that will fit?
Holley make a bracket system but its pretty ugly
Try the Grand Cherokee alternator. Uses that upper pivot boss. Will suck it in just enough.
I had been reading about this, will the pulley be the right offset for the 6.4? Also what year cherokee?
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I may have to correct myself. I think the Eagle and 6.4 mount differently than the early 03-08 stuff. As far as the Jeep configuration goes.
Yep i think so as seen a you tube video of it and someone stated the 6.4 doesnt work, however after getting motor fitted its super close to clearing. I think with a bit of cutting should have the clearance. Going to have to adjust my drivers side pipes as they are hitting the shock tower.
DionR
Well-Known Member
Sticks in my head that @bozvaliant made an alternator fit without cutting the rail. Maybe he has some input?
I just tried fitting an alternator to mine end of last week and was like an 1/8" from fitting. I haven't looked up the alternator yet, but it is a borrowed one from my brother. The reason I want to look it up is to see what the amp rating is as I think there are a couple of size options and a smaller one might make it work.
I should note that the trans isn't in the car anymore so the engine angle might not be right either. The back of the motor is supported but I didn't check to see how close it is to the installed angle.
I just tried fitting an alternator to mine end of last week and was like an 1/8" from fitting. I haven't looked up the alternator yet, but it is a borrowed one from my brother. The reason I want to look it up is to see what the amp rating is as I think there are a couple of size options and a smaller one might make it work.
I should note that the trans isn't in the car anymore so the engine angle might not be right either. The back of the motor is supported but I didn't check to see how close it is to the installed angle.
DionR
Well-Known Member
No promises that a lower amp alternator is smaller though.
The 6.4 has the solid mount standard but it does have the swivel mount as well which will pull the alternator in a bit. Just not sure if pulley is in correct offset
Same i need to put the box in to get the angle correct, i cant fit the drivers side header either as hits the strut tower, think ill get the top pipe modified to hug the head more.
DionR
Well-Known Member
The alternators I know of that use that swivel mount are only '03-08 and the pulley offset is wrong unless you want to change the TC cover, water pump, PS pump and crank pulley. But I could be wrong, maybe an alternator like that is out there. No idea if the pulley could be changed to make it work either.
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