Leaking Oil Pressure Warning Light Switches

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Duggie

Duggie

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Hello all. Long time, no chat.

Life's demands are finally turning the corner since mandatory retirement last year, so maybe I can spend more time lurking online again. :popcorn: Note to others. That "push through it - get over the pain latter" ethic us boomers were raised with will eventually bite you in the ***. The problem is in not finding out it doesn't work anymore until you don't recover...

Dolly the Dart continues to be a frequent three season diver up here in the Pacific NW with no more needed than oil changes and valve adjustments. Dolly gets runs around town and random trips to Mt Rainier and the Pacific Ocean. And the wife still gets that little grin when that crisp exhaust note comes in at 2700 RPM.

The turd in the punchbowl is cheaply made oil light switches. I'm on my third switch in 6000 miles. The oil light doesn't come on when the pressure switch starts leaking. It just starts leaving a trail of oil on the road behind the car. So far, the failures have been during local hops and I notice the oil trial coming up the driveway into the garage. The unnerving part of this issue is the light wouldn't come on until the switch dumps enough oil out to create low pressure. This doesn't exactly build confidence in spontaneous trips to remote areas.

The switch always leaks where the metal outer ring overlaps the plastic housing (pic). I've tried different auto parts stores, the last one being NAPA. This is feeling like the definition of insanity. I keep doing the same thing over and over, expecting a different solution! If all these switches are coming from the same lowest bidding manufacturer, what's left to do short of modifying one of these switches? JB Weld where the plastic meets the metal collar?

I thought about installing an aftermarket mechanical oil pressure gauge, but my wife barely recognizes the fuel gauge.

Thanks in advance for your thoughts. This car wouldn't be a driver without everyone on this site being open with their skills.

IMG_3967.JPG
 
Start lurking on Ebay and find an Old Stock switch.

Edit: Treed by S'cuder! I type way too slow...
 
NOS!

I put a Tee in the Oil pressure fittings and
run a Quality Oil Pressure switch to augment
the light. I always remove the Ash tray and mount
the gauge in the hole. No smoking in my car unless
you are a tire!
 
Takes a mere 7 to 9 psi to turn that warning light off. A new engine can have 60+ psi. I seriously doubt JB Weld or anything similar would hold. A real gauge along with the warning lamp is a somewhat popular option. None of this stops crap senders from leaking. Use proper socket, don't over tighten. Cross your fingers. OEM would spring a leak too.
 
Duggie said:
Hello all. Long time, no chat.

Life's demands are finally turning the corner since mandatory retirement last year, so maybe I can spend more time lurking online again. :popcorn: Note to others. That "push through it - get over the pain latter" ethic us boomers were raised with will eventually bite you in the ***. The problem is in not finding out it doesn't work anymore until you don't recover...

Dolly the Dart continues to be a frequent three season diver up here in the Pacific NW with no more needed than oil changes and valve adjustments. Dolly gets runs around town and random trips to Mt Rainier and the Pacific Ocean. And the wife still gets that little grin when that crisp exhaust note comes in at 2700 RPM.

The turd in the punchbowl is cheaply made oil light switches. I'm on my third switch in 6000 miles. The oil light doesn't come on when the pressure switch starts leaking. It just starts leaving a trail of oil on the road behind the car. So far, the failures have been during local hops and I notice the oil trial coming up the driveway into the garage. The unnerving part of this issue is the light wouldn't come on until the switch dumps enough oil out to create low pressure. This doesn't exactly build confidence in spontaneous trips to remote areas.

The switch always leaks where the metal outer ring overlaps the plastic housing (pic). I've tried different auto parts stores, the last one being NAPA. This is feeling like the definition of insanity. I keep doing the same thing over and over, expecting a different solution! If all these switches are coming from the same lowest bidding manufacturer, what's left to do short of modifying one of these switches? JB Weld where the plastic meets the metal collar?

I thought about installing an aftermarket mechanical oil pressure gauge, but my wife barely recognizes the fuel gauge.

Thanks in advance for your thoughts. This car wouldn't be a driver without everyone on this site being open with their skills.

View attachment 1716461565
Click to expand...
What's the application?
 
Also one of the biggest reasons for failure is overtightening. Some say using pliers, but that is mostly all I ever used. I'm not sure I even own the special socket for those. I do realize fully what you and the rest of us are up against with 3rd world parts

I don't know the current state of quality, but you could always spend more and buy a Stewart Warner Hobbs switch. They make all kinds of them, you'll have to look them up

Switches Archives - Stewart Warner
 
67Dart273 said:
Also one of the biggest reasons for failure is overtightening. Some say using pliers, but that is mostly all I ever used. I'm not sure I even own the special socket for those. I do realize fully what you and the rest of us are up against with 3rd world parts

I don't know the current state of quality, but you could always spend more and buy a Stewart Warner Hobbs switch. They make all kinds of them, you'll have to look them up

Switches Archives - Stewart Warner
Click to expand...
I've been using a 1 1/16" socket to R&R these switches.

I think I'll look for the newest NOS I can find. There must be some sort of O ring between the plastic and metal halves.

And like all the other great insights I've learned here, I'm archiving the Stewart Warner link. :thumbsup:
 
Duggie said:
Leaning Tower Of Power!

I woke up this AM wondering if any NOS would be floating around out there. Thanks for the links, S'cuder!
Click to expand...
The 64 in your avatar?
 

Yep, that's her!

When I was rebuilding the motor, the best advise I got on this forum was if I wanted the \6 to go faster, adjust the driver's seat closer to the gas pedal.
:rofl:
 
Gauge or light? Do you know what year the engine is? The OP 21x fits up to 78 in my book. OP 92X fits 79-87 (as far as my other book goes) fits all 6 cyl with light. OP21x is 3/8 18 thread. No thread size for the OP 92x but it looks the same and not 1/8" PT. The connectors are different between the 2. The 21x has the button and the terminal slides on. The 92x has 2 male spade terminals.
 
toolmanmike said:
So "leaning tower of power in a 64 Dart is a no go? :BangHead: :BangHead: :lol:
Click to expand...
I've read considerable links on people hot rodding the \6. What can be squeezed out of those little buggers is impressive. I had to find a happy compromise between keeping the factory street manors for my wife's comfort level and the satisfaction of playing with a mechanical toy. So for my entertainment I shaved the head to a compression that would 'just' run happy on regular gas, modified the intake to hold a NOS 318 two barrel carb, and with the help of a welding buddy, cut up and rebuilt a header that just barely fits through the 4 speed clutch linkage.

People that see the car on the street either talk about how I'm a fool for not setting a 318 in her or they get glassy eyed and wax on about the \6 of their youth. If all I had was time, it would be fun to build a hot rod \6 just for the challenge and keep the existing 6 pickled in the corner of the shop for when my wife says enough already, give me my car back!
 
toolmanmike said:
Gauge or light? Do you know what year the engine is? The OP 21x fits up to 78 in my book. OP 92X fits 79-87 (as far as my other book goes) fits all 6 cyl with light. OP21x is 3/8 18 thread. No thread size for the OP 92x but it looks the same and not 1/8" PT. The connectors are different between the 2. The 21x has the button and the terminal slides on. The 92x has 2 male spade terminals.
Click to expand...
The engine casting numbers are correct for a '64. The latest bad sending unit is in a pic above. I may cut that sucker open just to see WTF is going on inside.
 
If you watch YouTube videos you'll find you are not alone with inique problem. Modern senders have 3 small wire terminals and those senders typically leak though those terminals before leaking at their crimp seal. The mfgrs of new vehicles hold their suppliers very very strict quality requirements. They pull parts from boxes full of. I know a little too much about all this due to my younger brother working in quality control and field failure analysis for Bosch. Mfgr starts pulling bad parts from a lot and chit hits the fan. Assembly line is standing, brother and maybe a helper on a plane. At 1 time he had been in every assembly plant in these states and Canada, and Mexico. Turn the page.
While building antilock brake processors for example. There are clean rooms surrounding their assembly lines where the new build parts are made. Shoes, hair, everything covered. Get a blow off before entering. Srage inspections under microscopes. Once they start building same parts to supply aftermarket demand, no clean room. This type part, then that type part, all on the same line. Temp workers manning. (Brother would pitch a bish if I told too much. Glad he dont read here). Bottom line, regardless the mfgr, we cannot expect to get the same highest quality part off of a shelf that was provided to a assembly line. We can pay a little more for a well known brand mfgr but,,, those fail too. Still have to keep fingers crossed. Good luck
 
RedFish said:
If you watch YouTube videos you'll find you are not alone with inique problem. Modern senders have 3 small wire terminals and those senders typically leak though those terminals before leaking at their crimp seal. The mfgrs of new vehicles hold their suppliers very very strict quality requirements. They pull parts from boxes full of. I know a little too much about all this due to my younger brother working in quality control and field failure analysis for Bosch. Mfgr starts pulling bad parts from a lot and chit hits the fan. Assembly line is standing, brother and maybe a helper on a plane. At 1 time he had been in every assembly plant in these states and Canada, and Mexico. Turn the page.
While building antilock brake processors for example. There are clean rooms surrounding their assembly lines where the new build parts are made. Shoes, hair, everything covered. Get a blow off before entering. Srage inspections under microscopes. Once they start building same parts to supply aftermarket demand, no clean room. This type part, then that type part, all on the same line. Temp workers manning. (Brother would pitch a bish if I told too much. Glad he dont read here). Bottom line, regardless the mfgr, we cannot expect to get the same highest quality part off of a shelf that was provided to a assembly line. We can pay a little more for a well known brand mfgr but,,, those fail too. Still have to keep fingers crossed. Good luck
Click to expand...
And then there is my wife who reminded me she won't buy new outer clothing (pants, sweaters, skirts) anymore because its all junk. She shops FeeBay and used clothing stores for quality used items.
 
Bewy said:
Are you sure you are not distorting the body during install?
Click to expand...
Yep, that much I am sure of. a 1 1/16" socket is a great fit on the unit and I tighten it like it's made of glass. The photo above is the latest bad unit. It looks new. It just acts broken.
 
And I absolutely LOVE reading about what you guys accomplish with these cars over there. :thumbsup:
 
I've been through probably three or four over the counter senders on Vixen. The last one I got was an NOS Chrysler from ebay. I think any OLD NOS American made quality part will work good. Chrysler, NAPA, Standard any of the old stuff.
 
Common problem. I was relieved my aftermarket sender was leaking. My motor was fresh, and I thought my rear main was leaking. lol As suggested go NOS.
 
I scout eBay for new but old parts all the time. Especially electrical ones. Borg Warner, niehoff, standard, OE Mopar, all the time.
 
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