Budget Build 5.9 for a 71 Scamp

[Jarlaxle]

This ^^^^^ is the kinda thing you need to listen to. You can tell when someone has actually DONE it VS someone who hasn't done anything in 20 plus years. Ole Kenny there has probably modded more stuff in his lifetime that we'd all like to hear about. I'll also add this. I BELIEVE the Magnum truck manifolds with the 2 1/8" openings will fit the 67 and up A bodies. I'm unsure if they fit with power steering, but I know I've seen some guys here do it. You might look into that as well.

Column shift may also be an issue.

100% times 2 on cleaning the lifters. I just did this with swapping a 5.9 into my 66 Barracuda. the amount of crap inside the lifters was mind blowing. my 5.9 was just as sludgey as yours is, but an hour or so of soaking in Varsol (parts Cleaner) and then taking the retainer clip out and the plunger of each lifter and cleaning them out with tiny brushes did the trick. After getting mine all back together, not a single valve train tick. plus way cheaper than a coupe hundred bucks for new lifters. just be careful not to shoot the retainer clips across the room!

FWIW, Rock Auto has a full set of lifters for $112. They're Enginetech brand, PN L2167.

I emailed Oregon Cams today.
Here is what he said. Any advice? I don't speak cam-ese.

---

#1429

210/214 @ .050”, 260/264 adv, .506”/.506” lift, 111 sep

#2204

213/220 @ .050”, 265/275 adv, .480”/.498” lift, 110 sep

#1341

218/224 @ .050”, 270/276 adv, .482”/.482” lift, 110 sep

#1634

218/224 @ .050”, 270/276 adv, .528”/.536” lift, 110 sep

#1990

224/230 @ .050”, 276/282 adv, .510”/.510” lift, 112 sep

These are some of the most popular grinds in the area you are looking for, I can move the lobe sep around if you want something different. We can regrind your core for $239, it will take about two to three weeks.

If you send us your core please make sure to include you contact info in the box with the cam.

I don't either, but from 25,000+ miles of driving it in a 4-speed car with 2.76(!) gears, my Hughes 1418 has LOTS of low end-rather than retyping the specs, here's the cam card: https://hughesengines.com/Upload/Cam_Cards_2015/SER1418ALN10.jpg .

 

[Jarlaxle]

Ok back to the subject at hand.

Still collecting bargain parts for this build. There is a guy near me with a used Edelbrock 1406 (600cfm) carb. Electric choke. Is that enough CFM for my use?

Yes.

Hey. So the block and heads are at the machine shop right now getting the full treatment. The cam is in Oregon for its regrind. Right now all I have to do is plan and shop for more parts.

Right now I am thinking about ways to up the drivability of the car. Remember, I’m not building a hot rod, more of a spirited driver. Dependability is very important on this build and I’d like my wife to enjoy driving it too. So I’m thinking about cold starts and warm ups. With the air gap manifold, of course I won’t have the warm up benefits of the exhaust crossover passage. But I’m wondering if it’s worth trying to get a warm air intake set up going, the way they did from the factory. I’m hoping that the hot air, combined with the electric choke, will make those cold morning start ups less of an ordeal, even for someone like my wife who has very little experience with carburetors.

Only thing is, all the A body driver side exhaust manifolds i see don’t have any kind of “stove” on top of them. Does anyone know what the factory did for a heat stove on v8 a bodies? Or is this not even worth persuing?

Also, any other bright ideas on the topics of drivability outside of just how the engine is set up (carb, cam choice, etc) The AC will be a must.

View attachment 1716483627

Having DRIVEN my Duster in 40-degree temperatures with an electric-choke AVS, Air Gap intake, no heat riser, and an open scoop, just...don't worry about it. Pump it once, crank and fire. Mine being a 4-speed, I run it 1-2 minutes to stabilize the idle and go; drive gently until the temp gauge is past 125.

 

[michiganpat]

Yes.



Having DRIVEN my Duster in 40-degree temperatures with an electric-choke AVS, Air Gap intake, no heat riser, and an open scoop, just...don't worry about it. Pump it once, crank and fire. Mine being a 4-speed, I run it 1-2 minutes to stabilize the idle and go; drive gently until the temp gauge is past 125.

my old 5th ave was cranky and didn't like to start when temps got under 20 with an air gap and 600 electric choke edlebrock carb.....will F/M/J exhaust manifolds fit? they might be easier to find with a heat stove than a 55 year old A body one.....

 

[Jarlaxle]

my old 5th ave was cranky and didn't like to start when temps got under 20 with an air gap and 600 electric choke edlebrock carb.....will F/M/J exhaust manifolds fit? they might be easier to find with a heat stove than a 55 year old A body one.....

I have no idea. I have headers and no heat stove.

 

[RAMM]

Hey guys, I had another thread called "What to Do with My Scamp" in which I described how I have a slant- six equipped 71 Scamp with oil pressure problems.

View attachment 1716477104


At the end of that thread, I decided to pick up a 5.9 Magnum to replace the worn slant six.


View attachment 1716477105


In this thread, I want to chronicle my build and ask some questions along the way.

My goals with this build and swap is to do it as cheap as reasonably possible. I also want to have the engine make decent power, but have great street manners. I have done the hot rod thing, I've had a 440 4 speed, multiple cars with lumpy cam and headers, and this time I want to make something that has good torque but is fairly civilize and super reliable.

Actually, what I really want is for this Scamp to be a dependable, comfortable daily driver.

I'd like:
- Around 300 hp
- Air conditioning
- Power steering
- Cast iron manifolds! Yes, that's right.
- Hoping to reuse my rotating assembly (crank, cam, piston, rods, roller lifters)

Right now my spend is:
$375 for the motor.

Tonight I started tearing it apart. It looks a little sludgey in there, more than I was expecting. Hopefully the bores look okay. The motor had 101k miles, according to the junkyard.

View attachment 1716477106


As I start pricing out all the needed parts, I am really shocked to find that the motor itself is pretty much going to be the cheapest part of the build! Crazy that an aluminum intake is now $500. Last time I did this, they were $300.

One thing that really has me worried is the accessory drive. This may break the bank!
I'm looking at a complete set up — initially I was hoping to run the factory Magnum serpentine setup but from what I understand, to do that you have to run the Magnum timing cover, which means no mechanical fuel pump. I'd rather not have an electric fuel pump buzzing away. Is it true I can't use the Magnum belt bracketry with the LA timing cover?
Looking at Bouchillon and CVF, I am at about $1000 or $1400 plus tax, respectively, for a complete bracket and pulley set up, including the AC compressor. Any alternative ideas that may get my my goals be cheaper?

This is the build I'd emulate. J.Rob

Hey guys, I had another thread called "What to Do with My Scamp" in which I described how I have a slant- six equipped 71 Scamp with oil pressure problems.

View attachment 1716477104


At the end of that thread, I decided to pick up a 5.9 Magnum to replace the worn slant six.


View attachment 1716477105


In this thread, I want to chronicle my build and ask some questions along the way.

My goals with this build and swap is to do it as cheap as reasonably possible. I also want to have the engine make decent power, but have great street manners. I have done the hot rod thing, I've had a 440 4 speed, multiple cars with lumpy cam and headers, and this time I want to make something that has good torque but is fairly civilize and super reliable.

Actually, what I really want is for this Scamp to be a dependable, comfortable daily driver.

I'd like:
- Around 300 hp
- Air conditioning
- Power steering
- Cast iron manifolds! Yes, that's right.
- Hoping to reuse my rotating assembly (crank, cam, piston, rods, roller lifters)

Right now my spend is:
$375 for the motor.

Tonight I started tearing it apart. It looks a little sludgey in there, more than I was expecting. Hopefully the bores look okay. The motor had 101k miles, according to the junkyard.

View attachment 1716477106


As I start pricing out all the needed parts, I am really shocked to find that the motor itself is pretty much going to be the cheapest part of the build! Crazy that an aluminum intake is now $500. Last time I did this, they were $300.

One thing that really has me worried is the accessory drive. This may break the bank!
I'm looking at a complete set up — initially I was hoping to run the factory Magnum serpentine setup but from what I understand, to do that you have to run the Magnum timing cover, which means no mechanical fuel pump. I'd rather not have an electric fuel pump buzzing away. Is it true I can't use the Magnum belt bracketry with the LA timing cover?
Looking at Bouchillon and CVF, I am at about $1000 or $1400 plus tax, respectively, for a complete bracket and pulley set up, including the AC compressor. Any alternative ideas that may get my my goals be cheaper?

R

Thread '360 TrueStreet Magnum Build'

Feb 7, 2014

Its been awhile since I've posted anything useful or remotely interesting. I recently acquired a 360 Magnum core that once resided in a Jeep Grand Cherokee, at least that's what the guy I bought it from told me. I never say no to a 360 core if its the right price and not too far gone. So after sitting on it awhile trying to figure out what to do with it I've finally settled on a plan.

The plan is to build a really nice mild street engine on a fairly tight budget using as many of the OEM parts as possible. The goals are maximum bang for the buck on Canadian pump gas whether it is 87-91...

• RAMM
• Replies: 58
• Forum: Magnum Engine Swaps

Copy this build ^^^^^^^ J.Rob

 

[ScampNYC]

This is the build I'd emulate. J.Rob

R

Thread '360 TrueStreet Magnum Build'

Feb 7, 2014

Its been awhile since I've posted anything useful or remotely interesting. I recently acquired a 360 Magnum core that once resided in a Jeep Grand Cherokee, at least that's what the guy I bought it from told me. I never say no to a 360 core if its the right price and not too far gone. So after sitting on it awhile trying to figure out what to do with it I've finally settled on a plan.

The plan is to build a really nice mild street engine on a fairly tight budget using as many of the OEM parts as possible. The goals are maximum bang for the buck on Canadian pump gas whether it is 87-91...

• RAMM
• Replies: 58
• Forum: Magnum Engine Swaps

Copy this build ^^^^^^^ J.Rob

Hey, great build, just read it, thanks J. Rob. Curious, what did you do for a head gasket? A thin one or a thick one?


Also, on the subject of the heated air intake:
I still like the idea of trying this, and I actually have found (i think) a heat stove for an a-body manifold. But the trouble is, to get a 4 barrel snorkel air cleaner that has the thermostatic flap is more difficult than I imagined... most I find are for 2bbl. Does anyone have a 4bbl snorkel air cleaner for sale?

 

[michiganpat]

Hey, great build, just read it, thanks J. Rob. Curious, what did you do for a head gasket? A thin one or a thick one?


Also, on the subject of the heated air intake:
I still like the idea of trying this, and I actually have found (i think) a heat stove for an a-body manifold. But the trouble is, to get a 4 barrel snorkel air cleaner that has the thermostatic flap is more difficult than I imagined... most I find are for 2bbl. Does anyone have a 4bbl snorkel air cleaner for sale?

see if you can find any mid-late C bodies or cordobas?

 

[JDMopar]

Hey. So the block and heads are at the machine shop right now getting the full treatment. The cam is in Oregon for its regrind. Right now all I have to do is plan and shop for more parts.

Right now I am thinking about ways to up the drivability of the car. Remember, I’m not building a hot rod, more of a spirited driver. Dependability is very important on this build and I’d like my wife to enjoy driving it too. So I’m thinking about cold starts and warm ups. With the air gap manifold, of course I won’t have the warm up benefits of the exhaust crossover passage. But I’m wondering if it’s worth trying to get a warm air intake set up going, the way they did from the factory. I’m hoping that the hot air, combined with the electric choke, will make those cold morning start ups less of an ordeal, even for someone like my wife who has very little experience with carburetors.

Only thing is, all the A body driver side exhaust manifolds i see don’t have any kind of “stove” on top of them. Does anyone know what the factory did for a heat stove on v8 a bodies? Or is this not even worth persuing?

Also, any other bright ideas on the topics of drivability outside of just how the engine is set up (carb, cam choice, etc) The AC will be a must.

View attachment 1716483627

The exact manifolds that you need are for sale right now in the parts section. Better grab em while you can and all you'll need is the heat stove thingy!