Megasquirt Madness

[Toluene56]

I have most of this stuff on the turbo part of the forums, but figured I can throw down a thread in the EFI section for people looking for different idea's or setups.
Here is a list of parts used.
Edelbrock supervictor EFI Part#28155
Edelbrock 4150 throttlebody Part#4150
Holley 120lb/hr Injectors part#522-122x Also purchased some injector extension cups.
EFi Source Gold lite box w/ supplied harness
I had to purchase the injector plugs and everything else separately.
I used a cheap fuse block for the injector setup.

I changed my fuel cell to use internal pumps, twin 340lph fuel pumps with -8 feed and -8 return. With a full return style setup. I already had a fuel pump relay in the back of the car in the trunk, so I just ran the trigger wire from the ECU to the existing relay, which worked out well.
Ignition system I decided to do coil near plug. So I needed a cam sensor, I ended up using a magnum v8 distributor but without the cap. I simply cut the shaft where it protruded above the cam sensor, eventually I taped it over. Some day I'll make a cap for it. But the cam sensor is a simple half moon style, This also means I needed to use a crank trigger of some kind. So I had ordered a 36-1 wheel from a UK company that was about the right size to weld to the front of my Harmonic Balancer, just happened to work out just right. I also built a crank sensor mount with some scrap metal, it's ugly but works. I may take it apart and weld in a brace if I run into any wierd issues, but for now it's working.

 

[darndart]

Looks Great!

 

[Toluene56]

With the crank sensor and cam sensor figured out, I used GM LS D585 coils, made my own plug wires to fit. Not gonna lie it took a bit for me to get everything figured out in Tunerstudio, but once I had everything set right, it's pretty good.

After I got it all back together and fired up. I wanted some gauges, so I built a Raspberry pi4 touch screen that fit in my dash. Using TSdash to pull info from the megasquirt. If I were to do this again I would probably purchase a dash that uses canbus, like Tinker, NExgenefi,DD-efi something like that. But for now this works.

 

[TT5.9mag]

Giving up on the blow through carb?

 

[Toluene56]

Giving up on the blow through carb?

Oh I gave up on it like.. a year ago. LOL

 

[TT5.9mag]

Oh I gave up on it like.. a year ago. LOL

Any particular reason? Or just wanted the tuneability and data logging?

 

[Toluene56]

Any particular reason? Or just wanted the tuneability and data logging?

That exactly. tuneability and Datalogging. Granted I could use a megasquirt and use it for datalogging with a carb, but Tuneability at my fingertips, although a learning curve is awesome.

 

[Toluene56]

some screenshots of the settings used with a 36-1 wheel and magnum distributor cam sensor. Just in case anyone in the future gets hung up on this specific combination.

 

[jbc426]

I have most of this stuff on the turbo part of the forums, but figured I can throw down a thread in the EFI section for people looking for different idea's or setups.
Here is a list of parts used.
Edelbrock supervictor EFI Part#28155
Edelbrock 4150 throttlebody Part#4150
Holley 120lb/hr Injectors part#522-122x Also purchased some injector extension cups.
EFi Source Gold lite box w/ supplied harness
I had to purchase the injector plugs and everything else separately.
I used a cheap fuse block for the injector setup.
View attachment 1716520693View attachment 1716520691View attachment 1716520690
View attachment 1716520692

I changed my fuel cell to use internal pumps, twin 340lph fuel pumps with -8 feed and -8 return. With a full return style setup. I already had a fuel pump relay in the back of the car in the trunk, so I just ran the trigger wire from the ECU to the existing relay, which worked out well.
Ignition system I decided to do coil near plug. So I needed a cam sensor, I ended up using a magnum v8 distributor but without the cap. I simply cut the shaft where it protruded above the cam sensor, eventually I taped it over. Some day I'll make a cap for it. But the cam sensor is a simple half moon style, This also means I needed to use a crank trigger of some kind. So I had ordered a 36-1 wheel from a UK company that was about the right size to weld to the front of my Harmonic Balancer, just happened to work out just right. I also built a crank sensor mount with some scrap metal, it's ugly but works. I may take it apart and weld in a brace if I run into any wierd issues, but for now it's working.
View attachment 1716520688View attachment 1716520701View attachment 1716520699View attachment 1716520689View attachment 1716520702

Looks great. You are tenacious! You can always just buy this for your distributor cap. Holley makes one too, but it would be the only thing Holley on your set-up. Nice to see people doing this stuff.

MSD Ignition 84323 MSD Blank Distributor Caps | Summit Racing

Free Shipping - MSD Blank Distributor Caps with qualifying orders of $109. Shop Distributor Caps at Summit Racing.

www.summitracing.com

 

[Toluene56]

Looks great. You are tenacious! You can always just buy this for your distributor cap. Holley makes one too, but it would be the only thing Holley on your set-up. Nice to see people doing this stuff.

http://[URL]https://www.summitracing.com/parts/msd-84323

[/URL]

dude, thats awesome. I didn't know they even made that. But not sure it would bolt on to a factory magnum distributor. I guess I could always drive to summit and see.

 

[BillGrissom]

Cool that you finished it. Many people have parts but never get there since takes much time. Put me in the latter group. I put a Holley Commander 950 on my 1965 Chrysler 383, but never got it running right, just trying to idle in the carport. The auto-tuning software I bought helps ($15 from some-guy), but can't drive it to tune since no current tag and insurance. I would get it close, then it would stop running and wouldn't re-run, then I'd find the fuel map with bizarre numbers in the Holley software, like everything got corrupted. That was before even using the auto-tuning program. Holley stopped supporting it years ago and will no longer flash an ECU (Guy named Woody at Holley used to). Stopped fussing with it a few years ago since other priorities and not driving that car.

I put a 36-1 trigger wheel on my 1965 Dart 273, with a Ford VR pickup, and also made a bracket for a Chrysler Hall-effect pickup (for my 2002 3.8L), but haven't used that signal. My plan for ignition is Ford V-8 EDIS box triggering Chevy LS coils per cylinder, with a Holley Commander 950 commanding spark advance to the EDIS (via sawtooth wave), similar to how it commands a GM 8-pin HEI module. For now, fueling is just a BBD carb on 4 bbl manifold. I hope to mod a Magnum V-8 beer-keg manifold to realize cheap MPFI, which "might work" since the head has intake holes ~16 deg off-vertical, close to the manifold vertical holes, though requires some hogging out to pass bent studs. Like most people, lots of parts, but other priorities like home remodeling.

Maybe give up on the Holley stuff (junk?) and go megasquirt or a GM ECU if people are still modding those (BinderPlanet forum). Seems OE stuff is more robust than flashy, pricey after-market. I ran a Holley Pro-jection 2D on my Chrysler 383 for over a decade and was always a problem. Constantly had to tweak the knobs on the analog box, even with O2 feedback box. The harness was made so shoddy that wires pulled out of the crimped terminals (poorly crimped on too-large wire), so had to rush a fix to drive to work (crimp plus solder). The earlier "by MSD" analog boxes were much better made, with robust Weatherpak connectors. Ran the smaller "digital box" for a time, but it seemed quirky, overheating sometimes to stop working. Seems nobody who tried Pro-jection liked it. No MAP sensor, just using TPS as a crude signal to simulate manifold pressure. Only good for drag racing.

 

[Toluene56]

Cool that you finished it. Many people have parts but never get there since takes much time. Put me in the latter group. I put a Holley Commander 950 on my 1965 Chrysler 383, but never got it running right, just trying to idle in the carport. The auto-tuning software I bought helps ($15 from some-guy), but can't drive it to tune since no current tag and insurance. I would get it close, then it would stop running and wouldn't re-run, then I'd find the fuel map with bizarre numbers in the Holley software, like everything got corrupted. That was before even using the auto-tuning program. Holley stopped supporting it years ago and will no longer flash an ECU (Guy named Woody at Holley used to). Stopped fussing with it a few years ago since other priorities and not driving that car.

I put a 36-1 trigger wheel on my 1965 Dart 273, with a Ford VR pickup, and also made a bracket for a Chrysler Hall-effect pickup (for my 2002 3.8L), but haven't used that signal. My plan for ignition is Ford V-8 EDIS box triggering Chevy LS coils per cylinder, with a Holley Commander 950 commanding spark advance to the EDIS (via sawtooth wave), similar to how it commands a GM 8-pin HEI module. For now, fueling is just a BBD carb on 4 bbl manifold. I hope to mod a Magnum V-8 beer-keg manifold to realize cheap MPFI, which "might work" since the head has intake holes ~16 deg off-vertical, close to the manifold vertical holes, though requires some hogging out to pass bent studs. Like most people, lots of parts, but other priorities like home remodeling.

Maybe give up on the Holley stuff (junk?) and go megasquirt or a GM ECU if people are still modding those (BinderPlanet forum). Seems OE stuff is more robust than flashy, pricey after-market. I ran a Holley Pro-jection 2D on my Chrysler 383 for over a decade and was always a problem. Constantly had to tweak the knobs on the analog box, even with O2 feedback box. The harness was made so shoddy that wires pulled out of the crimped terminals (poorly crimped on too-large wire), so had to rush a fix to drive to work (crimp plus solder). The earlier "by MSD" analog boxes were much better made, with robust Weatherpak connectors. Ran the smaller "digital box" for a time, but it seemed quirky, overheating sometimes to stop working. Seems nobody who tried Pro-jection liked it. No MAP sensor, just using TPS as a crude signal to simulate manifold pressure. Only good for drag racing.

The base Holley ECU like the HP or terminator work well. Megasquirt has always catered to the dyi crowd, so you can setup just about anything with them.

 

[MadScientistMat]

Where did you get that crank trigger wheel?

 

[Toluene56]

Where did you get that crank trigger wheel?

Trigger-wheels.com