Budget Build 5.9 for a 71 Scamp

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Running that head is a mistake, IMO. You'll get a lot saying "I've run them forever like that" and on and on. What happens is, when the engine heats up, those cracks get bigger. They allow hot exhaust gases through and can burn valves. But good luck with it if you do run it.

Thanks, I appreciate that input. Ultimately, after doing a bunch of research online and talking to my machinist, the decision has already been made to run it. Hopefully it holds up, but if it doesn't maybe I'll pull it and put in a set of EQ heads down the line!
 
Thanks, I appreciate that input. Ultimately, after doing a bunch of research online and talking to my machinist, the decision has already been made to run it. Hopefully it holds up, but if it doesn't maybe I'll pull it and put in a set of EQ heads down the line!
The only EQ heads available nowadays are garbage. Don’t order them. Use what you have for now, almost all magnums heads running in trucks with more than 60k miles on em have cracks just like that, it’s not uncommon for them to run perfectly fine.
 
Hey guys, just wanted to give some updates and ask some questions.

It's been slow going, due to a bad winter and life getting in the way. But I am finally in the assembly portion of the build, with the block and heads painted.
IMG_4460.jpeg

Right now I am degreeing my reground cam. This is my first time degreeing a cam install and I am suprise to see how far off I am with the dots lined up on the timing set.

IMG_4536.jpeg


IMG_4545.jpeg

I'm using the factory chain tensioner and a Cloyes double roller timing set.

With the dots lined up, I am reading an intake center line at 116*. I think according to my cam spec sheet it is supposed to be 108*. Can someone look at this sheet and verify tht's the number I am going for?
IMG_4544.jpeg

My timing set has +/-4 keyways, so I tried one of them and got a new reading of 111.5* (4.5* adjustment).
I double checked to make sure I was right on the money for #1 TDC and the degree wheel at 0.
But to be 8* off seems like a lot. Yes, I am measuring off the 2nd lift bore from the front, on the #1 cylinder.

Am I doing something wrong? I'm I'm not, how do I get to 108* from this far away? Can I advance the cam by moving one of the sprockets 1 tooth off, and then combo that with my keyway advance/retard?

Thanks!
 
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I think one tooth on the timing gear is 12-14*

Could you have gotten the timing a tooth off because of how the tensioner loads the chain?
 
Hey guys, just wanted to give some updates and ask some questions.

It's been slow going, due to a bad winter and life getting in the way. But I am finally in the assembly portion of the build, with the block and heads painted.
View attachment 1716520603
Right now I am degreeing my reground cam. This is my first time degreeing a cam install and I am suprise to see how far off I am with the dots lined up on the timing set.

View attachment 1716520604

View attachment 1716520605
I'm using the factory chain tensioner and a Cloyes double roller timing set.

With the dots lined up, I am reading an intake center line at 116*. I think according to my cam spec sheet it is supposed to be 108*. Can someone look at this sheet and verify tht's the number I am going for?
View attachment 1716520602
My timing set has +/-4 keyways, so I tried one of them and got a new reading of 111.5* (4.5* adjustment).
I double checked to make sure I was right on the money for #1 TDC and the degree wheel at 0.
But to be 8* off seems like a lot. Yes, I am measuring off the 2 lift bore from the fron on the #1 cylinder.

Am I doing something wrong? I'm I'm not, how do I get to 108* from this far away? Can I advance the cam by moving one of the sprockets 1 tooth off, and then combo that with my keyway advance/retard?

Thanks!
I've been there: Call Ken and see if he has an offset cam woodruff key. You want the cam installed center line correct, of your not going to be happy with the outcome.

Remember, when the cam is reground the new lobe has to fit on what's left of the came core. Often times the Cl can only be moved a couple (2) degrees of what the original cam core was ground on.
 
I think one tooth on the timing gear is 12-14*

Could you have gotten the timing a tooth off because of how the tensioner loads the chain?

So in theory, I could go one tooth off: 116-12=104
Then add 4 back in with the offset key way on the crank sprocket, and get where I need to be:
104+4=108
 
Try putting the stock chain and gears back on and degree it. See where it lands. If it’s the same call Ken. If it’s different get a new timing set.
 
Im looking, but I think I threw out the old chain with the old water pump, intake, and other metal parts that my scrapper neighbor took …
 
I'm going to try the tooth and offset keyway idea and see where I can get. I also kind of don't trust my results, since its my first time degreeing a cam. I think I did it all right but I want to be 100% sure. And I will call Ken, thanks all for the advice.
 
I'm going to try the tooth and offset keyway idea and see where I can get. I also kind of don't trust my results, since its my first time degreeing a cam. I think I did it all right but I want to be 100% sure. And I will call Ken, thanks all for the advice.
Someone on the Forum may have a 4* key in their stash...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/257248568651

Or: Mr. Gasket 986G
 
I'm going to try the tooth and offset keyway idea and see where I can get. I also kind of don't trust my results, since its my first time degreeing a cam. I think I did it all right but I want to be 100% sure. And I will call Ken, thanks all for the advice.

Are the intake valve events off too?
 

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