.. one-man brake bleeder kit ??..

-
M

mopar66

Well-Known Member
Joined
Nov 12, 2009
Messages
123
Reaction score
43
I'm getting ready to bleed a newly installed dual master cylinder brake system ..
because of the added time/complexity of doing a dual cylinder set-up, I was looking at some of the one-man bleeder kits on the market >> was just wondering if anybody here has bought/used one of these kits ??? ... and is it better/faster to use a kit that pushes the air to the master cylinder from the caliper .. or draws (vacuums) the air out from the caliper ???

thanks
 
mopar66 said:
is it better/faster to use a kit that pushes the air to the master cylinder from the caliper ..
Click to expand...

Certainly not that.

Traditional "pressure bleeders" pressurized the master and pushed FLUID from the master out the cylinder / caliper being bled
 
I bench bleed my master cylinders first, just using small plastic plugs or caps to plug the holes (often holding them closed with my fingers) & slightly stroke ~1" the master cylinder until fluid starts to squirt out around plastic fittings. Then install on vehicle & usually gravity does rest of the work. On occasion I will have to use one of those "Hand" Vacuum pumps to encourage stubborn fluid to start draining..by attaching to bleed screws at wheel cylinder or caliper and pump/pull fluid out.
 
I use one of these.

[ame="http://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-MV8000-Automotive-Test-Bleeding/dp/B00265M9SS/ref=sr_1_1/184-6533170-3795351?ie=UTF8&qid=1409694694&sr=8-1&keywords=mityvac+vacuum+pump"]Amazon.com: Mityvac MV8000 Automotive Test and Bleeding Kit: Automotive[/ame]


Just keep in mind, if you do, to keep fluid in the MC or you will be starting all over again.

Also bench bleed the MC first. It can be done on the car if you have already installed it.
 
** I probably should have said that this is a Wilwood dual master cylinder / (4) disc brake system ... I needed to give more info
* and I didn't explain the one system I was asking about well enough > it bleeds the air out by pushing fluid from the caliper back through the lines to the master cylinder ..
 
Brake bleeders either push fluid through the master to the calipers/cylinders or they pull fluid from the master to the wheels. There is a "one man kit made by Lisle that is a check valve that attaches to the bleeder and allows fluid to exit but then closes so air won't enter the system on the return stroke of the master cylinder. tmm
 
inkjunkie said:
never had a handheld vacuum pump fail me....
Click to expand...

The Mityvac kit even comes with a cup to catch the fluid and bleeder adapters. It creates a vacuum to draw the fluid and air from the master cylinder. tmm
 
a hand-held vacuum pump it will be ... I'll buy the Mityvac kit ..
thanks guys !!
 
Look up gravity bleed on YouTube. That can be done by yourself
 
Motive Products Power Bleeder Kits .....bought one of these years ago.....works like a champ...especially dealing with aftermarket callipers.
 
I have both pressure and Mityvac,, I use the mityvac most often, I don't have time to gravity bleed, but that works well also..

I've found it very helpful, when using the Mityvac,. to take the bleeders out, and coat the threads with heavy grease, to stop air being sucked past the threads..

hope it helps
 
I've always just used a piece of pipe or old broom stick jammed between the pedal and the seat, it's a little time consuming but it's never let me down.
 
Wasting your money. All you need to do is gravity bleed the system. One person can do that just fine.
 
Grease in the bleeder threads needs to be done very, very carefully. You don't want to get it in the brake system. Brake System Assembly Lube would be a better choice.

I use a Laura Scudders pint peanut butter jar, some copper tube, some J-B Weld, and about 20 feet of vacuum tube. Oh yeah, and a manifold vacuum port on the intake of a running engine.
http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u196/ntsqd/host/IMG_0984.jpg
Short copper tube gets the long hose and goes to the intake. Long copper tube gets the shorter hose and goes to the bleeder. The ends of both tubes are slightly flared to get a better seal on the hose. the end of the long tube MUST stay under the surface off the old fluid.
 
See youtube on "bench bleeding" the MC. You must pump the rod >50 times to work all the bubbles out. I find it easier to do on the car, using the pedal. I never liked the cheap check-valve type "one-man bleeders". I use a vacuum pump kit, plus have my wife pump the pedal. Moving the pedal helps break free crud, which is important when refreshing the fluid. Also, with just vacuum it sucks bubbles past the bleeder threads so hard to tell if you still have bubbles in the fluid.
 
BillGrissom said:
.... Also, with just vacuum it sucks bubbles past the bleeder threads so hard to tell if you still have bubbles in the fluid.
Click to expand...
Which is why the grease or brake assembly lube in the bleeder threads. Keeps that from happening.
 
I bleed my master on the car. I just run 2 short brake lines off of the master back around into the fluid and pump away. Never failed me yet.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top