Hole in tank fix?

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olddog12

olddog12

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So I was cleaning up my tank, well scrapping off several coats of under coating, and found a hole on the top, about the size of a shingle nail. This tank hasn't had gas in it for about 5-6 years and there hasn't been a filler neck in it either. Aside from welding this thin metal, and somewhat dangerous procedure what else do you recommend? Has anyone used Seal-all? I was thinking about putting a large sheet metal screw coated in seal-all into the hole but any looking for different ideas.
 
i would buy a new tank. sooner or later after you have it all together and are enjoying it, it will leak. thats just my opinion..
 
Concur-best to buy a new tank. If the rest of the tank is in good condition you can try and find a welder who will patch it. Old, bold welders usually fill it with water or blow carbon monoxide in...not many old, bold welders left for a reason!(lol)...most guys won't mess with it and O don't blame them. Lot's of horror stories of sealers getting in the fuel and causing problems. Once rust starts on the tank I think your in for an uphill battle. New tank your best option IMO. Good Luck!
 
I used a fiberglass repair kit to fix my tank many, many years ago. It fixed the tank and it held up for many years.
 
If its a galvanized tank and you have good industrial soldiering iron you can soldier it, i have done it before and works well , being empty 5 or 6 years i doubt theres fumes and you could braze it
 
Take it to a radiator repair shop.
Most can repair it and pressure check.

I'd replace it with new if possible.
 
radiator shops have gotten pretty pricey round here. I t probably has plenty of rust on the inside, the metal is THIN for sure. I have taken a sheet metal screw, rubber gasket, and 2part epoxy over that with good results..... BUT like they said, buy a new tank, filler neck gasket, and pickup..... money well spent!!!!
 
Why would anyone use epoxy or Seal All on a gas tank? They will both be destroyed by the gas eventually! Weld, braze, or if you can't do either of those get some real gasoline-proof sealer like Permatex Perma Shield (#85420).
 
Exact replacement tanks aren't available for every model. Those that are available are affordable and worry free. A small hole repair could be worry free depending on its location.
 
Well the hole it on the top of the tank and since it wont be in the car for a while I think I will see about getting a radiator shop to fix it before ordering a new one. Napa said 250 for a new tank tho.
Since we are on tank topics, can someone tell where the line coming out at the top of the tank goes? is it an overflow line? I also put a pic of the gas cap up and it has a vent in it so can I just plug that line coming out of the tank off?
 

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Don't assume the fumes are gone. If you desire to repair it use a vaccum cleaner but put the hose on the blowing end of vaccumm and stick the hose in the tank with all ports open. Make sure there is no old fuel in it and blow it out for about a hour. Smell the tank before putting a torch on it or use a big soldier iron on it. I cant guess how many tanks I have soldiered this way but it works fine. Ive repaired tanks for 34 yrs and still am here to tell you about it. Be careful when doing it I put liners in all my tanks to prevent them from rusting. Our fuel does not last and start going rotten within 3 months I do this on a new tank as well. Just make sure to take your time to prep everything before getting into a rush. If it worth doing it is worth doing well
 
I washed out a tank with soap and water, rinsed with hot, and immediatley put it in the sun to stay hot and dry out, and blew some air through. Then brazed up an area on thr top that had numerous pinholes; no problems, and still here to tell about it. On a budget, I would not hesitate to do it again. Never thought about the idea of soldering with a big iron.
 
Rockauto, I just gave a guy a link, $130. Old Russian would just rub a bar of soap over the hole....That spud on top is for the EFI return line..:)
 
The hole in the tank was caused by trapped water on TOP of the tank,, and doesn't mean there's any rust IN the tank,..

A rad shop will cut an inspection slit in the top,, look around with a mirror,, and if good,, will solder a patch over it in just a few mins..

When I soldered/welded tanks,, I rinsed the tank, and purged it by attaching an exhaust hose off a running vehicle for about 15 mins..

still here,, never even a pop....
 
I've brazed, and sometimes soldered tanks (A lot of them). On plastic tanks, I've Plastic Welded them.


When that wasn't an option, I used a 2-Part Gas Tank Repair Epoxy like Permatex #80884. Water Weld (made by JB Weld) used to be really good for repairs too, but the quality has gone downhill.

I used 2-Part Gas Tank Epoxy to fix a leaking drain plug on my '87 D50 in '04, while it was pouring gas out like a waterfall. Drove that truck for 6-7 years with that epoxy crammed around the drain plug. In '10 or '11 when I stripped the truck down, I tried to remove that drain plug to empty the gas out of the tank, I couldn't remove it.

I had a pipe wrench on the drain plug, with a 4' cheater pipe on the end. The epoxy and plug wouldn't break loose, I ended up putting so much force on it, that I rotated the whole tank to the point where it mangled the gas tank mounts instead
 
Your tank is in good shape compared to the one I pulled from my 1970 duster
 

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