Harmonic balancer install

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moparker

moparker

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What tool do you guys recomend for installing the balancer? I seen one at Summit for 28.00. I guess any home grown ideas will work also. Thanks.
 
moparker said:
What tool do you guys recomend for installing the balancer? I seen one at Summit for 28.00. I guess any home grown ideas will work also. Thanks.
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series of longer bolts-----------------
 
Grease the snout of the balancer and crank nose, then using a rubber hammer pound the balancer on to get it started, then use the large crank bolt with an impact wrench to walk it on all the way...

No special tools needed....
 
krazykuda said:
Grease the snout of the balancer and crank nose, then using a rubber hammer pound the balancer on to get it started, then use the large crank bolt with an impact wrench to walk it on all the way...

No special tools needed....
Click to expand...

Did that but, without the grease. Bolt spun out. Don't want to take a chance on screwing up the threads. Maybe I don't have it on far enough for the bolt to press it on.
 
Either rent the tool from the parts store, or go buy longer bolts, same thread to get it on further. Best not to hammer on it.
 
1 3/16 socket ? 130lbs ? Oil bolt? Am I missing something here ? Or is the question that easy ?
 
moparker said:
Did that but, without the grease. Bolt spun out. Don't want to take a chance on screwing up the threads. Maybe I don't have it on far enough for the bolt to press it on.
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A 1/2" longer bolt will get it going without the threads pulling out and then put the standard one back in. The damper ought to slide on easily for a ways; look at the crank snout for any burrs and dings and file is smooth, and check the ID of the damper for any burrs. I also don't hammer on damper just to avoid any issue with the thrust bearing.
 
krazykuda said:
Grease the snout of the balancer and crank nose, then using a rubber hammer pound the balancer on to get it started, then use the large crank bolt with an impact wrench to walk it on all the way...

No special tools needed....
Click to expand...

Sounds like a great way to strip the threads out of the crankshaft. Like some previous a-hole did on my 340!

There is a reason they make balancer pullers/installers.
 
j par said:
1 3/16 socket ? 130lbs ? Oil bolt? Am I missing something here ? Or is the question that easy ?
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Yes it's that easy. However nothing has gone easy with this car. Shop manual shows a tool. I tried the way I've done it before and no go. Just trying to avoid anymore issues. Never hurts to ask.
 
7 pound sledge will do it. But you would have to take the rad out for some swinging room. Don't miss.
Of course I'm kidding!

Spend the 28 bucks. This is one place not to cut corners. Those threads are surprisingly easy to damage.
 
69_340_GTS said:
Sounds like a great way to strip the threads out of the crankshaft. Like some previous a-hole did on my 340!

There is a reason they make balancer pullers/installers.
Click to expand...

That's what I'm trying to avoid.
 
Boil it in a pot of water, then put it on with your wifes oven mits :)

the thermal expansion usually helps it slide on enough to then just install it with a bolt.

Don't Laugh!
 
AJ/FormS said:
7 pound sledge will do it. But you would have to take the rad out for some swinging room. Don't miss.
Of course I'm kidding!

Spend the 28 bucks. This is one place not to cut corners. Those threads are surprisingly easy to damage.
Click to expand...

That's what I'm thinkin.
 
I just went through this with my build. We used a special tool built for the job. The two things I was told emphatically Not to do are try to pull it on with the crank bolt and above all, do not hit is with a hammer!!! Pulled mine on with the tool and finished it off with an impact wrench on the crank bolt.
JMHO from experience--DR:coffee2:
 
I find it interesting what different problems guys have working on there cars. I have never had an issue with this, Just tap it on till threads get started and tighten, Dozens like this and no problems.
 
This is just my bad luck I guess. Just hope my threads are ok on the crank.
 
While I have done it with the hammer and balancer bolt - the right way is the installer tool. I'm not a fan of heating them either. I've had an outer ring move after doing that.
 
Mopar Tim said:
I find it interesting what different problems guys have working on there cars. I have never had an issue with this, Just tap it on till threads get started and tighten, Dozens like this and no problems.
Click to expand...
That is why I suggested that the crank and damper ID be checked for burrs and distortions.....these are not like the /6 damper which are an interference fit all the way; the SBM dampers ought to slip on much more easily. Another problem area is the woodruff key and the damper keyway. We put in a new key and it was a bit fat; we had to file it down some.
 
28 bucks is pretty cheap insurance to do the job right.
 
Checked for burs. All good. Threads look ok also.
 
Instead of using the balancer bolt to pull it in and maybe screwing up the threads, go to a fastener supply store and get a piece of high quality threaded rod, a quality nut to go with it and some heavy washers. If you really want to splurge on it, get a thrust bearing as well.

By doing that you have basically created your own homemade version of a store bought installing tool that you can reuse again and again.
 
Make sure all surfaces are smooth, lube the snout of the crankshaft and the threads. Heat the balancer up and pull it on with the crank bolt. Heating the balancer to a couple hundred degrees is no harder on it than under hood temp. on a hot day. Has worked for me.
 
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