Frustrated with inability to do body work!

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Spent some time the last 2 nights working on the door. Here are some pics of what I am encountering. Not sure I am doing this correctly.
After the first layer of filler and as seen in the previous post I laid down a solid 6"-8" wide filler application. I tried not to get it to thick.
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Getting ready to sand some of this. I am sanding using an 11" block with 180 grit to start. Once I get it fairly smooth I switch to a 180 grit.
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Below you can see where I am at after doing 3 coats and resand. Trying to use a different color each coat so I can see when i get tot the previous layer.
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Heres where I stopped for the night. It feels very good but I have to do a thin coat using a glazing putty? there are a few scratches that need filled. My question would be how thick do I apply the glaze and how do you tell how thick you are putting it on. how far above and below the previous filler do I apply the glaze. Trying to learn and do this the correct way.
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Thanks for any advice you can throw my way.
Rod
 
If it was mine I would be hitting it with guide-coat spray and working it with #400 and a long block to see what the guide coat told me.
Glaze does not build so you only want to use it as a last resort for the smallest defects before final sanding and priming.
JMHO-----------Rat----------:) good luck!
 
Thanks for the reply desertrat. Should I be doing a 400 grit before I do primer? I do plan on using guide coat and a 30". Glad you pointed out that glaze does not build as I wasnt aware of that.
Rod
 
It looks like you are ready to put a first coat of primer on it now. Be sure to use a good degreaser first.
After primer, guidecoat and either 240 or 400 depending on how close you are to final.
Just before the last coat of primer when you have it as close as you can get it with 400, then use the glaze
to clean up small imperfections.
 
1968FormulaS340 said:
You just need to get it close enough for a high build primer (which is fairly close).

Careful blocking of the primer is what makes a car straight.
Click to expand...

I will agree with this statement. It appears you had it close at one time but kept sanding because you were doubting yourself then went too far. It's a fine line of stopping or keep sanding. I've found that when I get to the point I know it's close I shoot a few coats of high build on it, then some guide coat, then lightly block with 150 to see how far I am off. Trying to blend "mud" into bare metal can trick your eyes. I'm betting you were closer than you though at one point. Keep at it whereas I can tell you have the right idea.

-Jason

EDIT... sorry I didn't realize I hadn't read the last page but I'll leave this comment up for others.
 
CrOoKs, you state "that when I get to the point I know it's close I shoot a few coats of high build on it". My question is do you sand between primer coats or do you spray 2 or 3 coats then sand?
Thanks Rod
 
rod7515 said:
CrOoKs, you state "that when I get to the point I know it's close I shoot a few coats of high build on it". My question is do you sand between primer coats or do you spray 2 or 3 coats then sand?
Thanks Rod
Click to expand...
I spray 2-3 coats and let it dry then sand. Let the primer get that body line straight if possible. Not saying to get 8 coats of primer on it but if you have the mud close shoot some primer on it and use a some guide coat to help give you a better idea of what is going on.
 
I am so glad to read threads like this. I have not painted a car in 30 years and I do remember that "feel" is essentially what it's all about once you understand the basics. Thanks y'all!
 
Did you ever get your body work done ? If you didn't live so fare away id give you a hand.
 
I haven't been able to work on the car in the last 2 weeks as I decided that I needed to clean and rearrange how my shed/garage was laid out so I could have maximum space to work. Im mounting everything I can on one side and going from 3 large toolboxes down to 2 toolboxes. This has been a very challenging chore as I find I have to much stuff but what do you keep or get rid of. Anyway I plan on finishing this up tonight and should get back to work on car sometime this week although with Thanksgiving on Thursday and the wife has family in town this coming weekend Im sure time will be limited!
Hope to post some progress soon.
Thanks Rod
 
As you block you don't want a lot of pressure into the panel. I shoot epoxy primer before any body working. Do the filler over it, then shoot high build over that and continue the blocking. I also do the body assembled and panels aligned. If you've ever looked down the side of a car and seen the low spots at the edges of each panel as you go down the length... It's also harder to put too much pressure into the panel on the block when you're doing it on the side of a car. That's from trying to block out the body parts individually. You can get a much better final product doing it assembled. Least IMO.
 
moper, Thanks for the suggestions. I do plan on putting the doors and fender back on before I am done and will align each one then work to make them match the rest of the car. Its funny that you bring this up as I was in the shop tonight working on the fender for the first time in about 3 weeks. There was a spot on the front side of the door that I can feel needs attention but realized I will have to have it on the car and aligned to know for sure how much straightening I will need to do. Again thanks for your suggestions and guidance.
Rod
 
mullinax95 said:
I did some body work inside the engine bay of my cuda.... now I understand why painters charge so much. They can have it!
Click to expand...
Yep,
I perfectly understand. Just went through painting my engine compartment. Really suxs especially when you weld up all of the unused holes.
IMG_20171124_174923657.jpg
 
rod7515 said:
Spent some time the last 2 nights working on the door. Here are some pics of what I am encountering. Not sure I am doing this correctly.
After the first layer of filler and as seen in the previous post I laid down a solid 6"-8" wide filler application. I tried not to get it to thick.
View attachment 1715108828
Getting ready to sand some of this. I am sanding using an 11" block with 180 grit to start. Once I get it fairly smooth I switch to a 180 grit.
View attachment 1715108829 Below you can see where I am at after doing 3 coats and resand. Trying to use a different color each coat so I can see when i get tot the previous layer.
View attachment 1715108830
Heres where I stopped for the night. It feels very good but I have to do a thin coat using a glazing putty? there are a few scratches that need filled. My question would be how thick do I apply the glaze and how do you tell how thick you are putting it on. how far above and below the previous filler do I apply the glaze. Trying to learn and do this the correct way.
View attachment 1715108831 View attachment 1715108832 View attachment 1715108833
Thanks for any advice you can throw my way.
Rod
Click to expand...

Typically I hit the first coat of plastic with 40g on a long board or air file., then sucessive coats with 80g all the way up until it's straight. Then skim coat with polyester glaze and switch up to 180g. If you start blocking too early with 180g you start to waffle it back up. When it gets to the final coats of plastic coat and work the whole area each time. Putting a little swipe of filler in the middle of it and sanding it makes it worse. Do you have a long board?
 
George, first thanks for getting this thread back on track. When you say long board I have a set of duro blocks that are up to 12" long. Also bought a single one that is 24" long. Im assuming thats what you meant. Im using the 12" the most. Once I put the filler on and wait for it to harden then I hit it with the 80 grit. Thats the most course i have. Then Ive been going to 180 grit. I think Im getting close to being ready for primer so I can see where Im at. Heres a question I have, once I spray a coat of primer and then use guide coat can I put more filler on top of primer or do I need to sand back down to bare metal?
Thanks Rod
 
Can apply filler over scuffed primer.
 
When using the phrase "scuffed", odes that mean with 180 grit, 220 or rougher?
Thanks Rod
 
Dura blocks are ok depending but I prefer an old school wooden/aluminum board. The longer dura blocks can be flexible. Ok, I seldom have to apply more filler over primer unless it's just a pinhole or something. When you work an area coat the whole section. When blocking when you first start to see the underlying layer whether it be metal or the next layer of filler down that is when you stop and recoat. Filler is cheaper then primer so I usually stay with that and I don't really like a layer of something different in the middle of the filler work. In my experience depending on the filler used some like to shrink overnight so once I get that first prime on I like to let it sit for a day or 2 or longer and re-block and prime again.
 
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Got to go back out and start some more work on the doors tonight. I noticed where the door mirror bolts to the door the area appears to be dented. Here are some pics.
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I know its hard to see but above you can see just below the 2 holes, the area that appears to be dented down. I am assuming thats not the way it was from new and I need to pull that area up and make it match the rest of the upper side of the door? Also the single hole will need pulled up slightly as well.
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So does this area need work or is this the way it is supposed to be?
Thanks Rod

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I would think it should be straight. I would look for a wheel/ball on a stick and see if you can gently roll it out. Going at it with any sort of hammer will raise it pretty quick. Keep in mind,the mirror will disquise the low area. Keep filler to a minimum,one bump on the mirror and it will crack.
 
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