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Here. The Dart may be going up for sale.

I agree and would expect a little more professionalism from a forum technical editor.

I don’t expect or want anything from PST. I don’t know why this guy is getting so upset. Lmfaooo QUOTE="Dusterdenovo, post: 1972155234, member: 23505"]Who's trying to get a refund?

My issue was a couple of months ago. I don't think I need a "wambulance" whatever that is.

Customer service is not their forte. I was on the phone with their customer service/ tech and he was telling one of the guys that I got one of the old pivot shafts that they had problems with breaking. I tried to talk, but he had me on mute and didn't realize I could hear everything he was...

Heat the LCA collar around the torsion bar with a torch or yellow maps gas hand torch from Home Depot. Sounds like yours is stuck in the LCA from corrosion or rust if the LCA is free from the K member.

Just talked to diamond back and he described how they vulcanize the stripe. I'm wondering is it good to apply heat to the sidewall like that. Maybe I'm being too skidish.

I bought some BFG redline radials from coker to put on some steelies on my 72 dart. Took them to discount tire to mount and two of them had a wave laterally or side to side. Date codes were 2017 and one of the guys mentioned they may have been stacked. Anyone have these tires or have problems...

Yeah when I got it back the brakes were ok, but not optimal so I called him and he said it takes 20 inHg to operate it efficiently and I had 14-15 so I opted to use a vacuum canister and hide it. How much vacuum do you have? Have a cam?

It’s a 4 speed car and I measured vacuum where the hose comes off the intake. I haven’t checked it through the check valve yet. I wanted to see what vacuum was at the source. I never considered vacuum being different off the intake vs the carb.

Short pedal stroke stops ok but can not lock up with hard pedal pressure. Go 30 mph put in neutral and idle up and will lock up with firm pedal pressure. These brakes should be more sensitive.

Ok, so if I should be able to have plenty of boost @15” what else should I look at? Calipers are new and bled.

72 Dart 340 has a choppy cam and I don't have the specs. Running 15 inHg vacuum out of my intake. The booster was just rebuilt by dewey boosters so I know it's not a bad booster. Think I need to run a vacuum canister? I hate to add equipment that is not stock.

Putting steelies with red circle dog dishes on and looking at redline radials. the sizes are close, but which one is a better fit? Not many pics with my search.

I have the PST 1.03 torsion bars, bilstein shocks, triangular factory rubber stop and will run a 215/70/14 tire. Kinda curious where most run their bump stops. Seems like the stop 3/4 inch from frame might be good. Looking at how low some guys cars are their stops must be on the frame. I’d like...

I have the PST 1.03 torsion bars, bilstein shocks, triangular factory rubber stop and will run a 215/70/14 tire. Kinda curious where most run their bump stops. Seems like the stop 3/4 inch from frame might be good. Looking at how low some guys cars are their stops must be on the frame. I’d like...

What’s the minimal distance you want between the LCA rubber bumper and frame while still having functional front suspension.

Yeah, they told me it was obsolete.

You’d think with all the valiants, scamps and darts you’d be wading around in them. LoL

Yeah did the pedal test and didn’t drop. Sent it off to Dewey boosters in Oregon to rebuild because for some reason Dart boosters went extinct. LoL

I’ll check NAPA, I didn’t know they still did that.

72 Dart with 340 power discs, new calipers bled etc. Pedal was getting hard before replacing pads etc. Pedal still hard and motor pulling about 14 inHg vac at idle so increase idle and vacuum and doesn't help. Sometimes when you push on pedal it increases idle speed so is there a vac leak in...

James, I went back and looked at it again and fit it. You’re right, I guess the rubber was askew making it look uneven. Sorry for wasting your time with that. Thanks

Ok, well both sides of the bushing are that way and the angles oppose each other. So which way do I turn the shock? I don’t remember the other being like that so I’ll pull it and look. Seems like it wouldn’t sit flush with the control arm and one side would dig into the arm.

Pulled front shock out to put on and immediately noticed bushing looked ground down at odd angles to the control arm and some paint off the bottom. Shock isn’t used but looks like someone tried to make it fit. I’ll pull the other one but I think I would’ve noticed it. The rep of the company that...

Ok

Tear in the boot and I don't know how it would rub on the hub. Anyhow do you think it's a concern?

Thanks, I’m hoping that the diameter of the new pivot shafts will fit correctly. I had to use a pipe wrench a torch and big hammer to get yours out. I was informed they were old stock that you had problems with.

I will. I had it set on 100 and was pulling up with one arm. It felt about like about 80 ft-lb, but thanks for telling me. It does look like I ran out of thread when I look back at the shaft.

Yeah, my old pivots shafts rattle around in the K member now. In other words the diameter of the hole is bigger. Thanks for helping.