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The pump you have is called a TRW Thompson and if you have the aluminum water pump there is not a bracket to fit it to the engine. The Federal pump has a smaller motch at 3 o'clock looking at back and you can get brackets for it. Whoile you can get rebuilt pumps trying to find a pulley is a...

Call Dante's (609) 332-4194

Eastwood has a couple of kits. One for major scratches and one for minor scratches.

If the harmonic balancer that was used in the balancing was a neutral balance unit then the engine was internally balanced and any neutral balance harmonic balancer or torque converter can be used. That means no balance/counter weights on the balancer or torque converter.

If the 340 still has the aluminum water pump on it you are going to find that the lower raditor fitting for the 67 will be on the driver's side and be 1 1/2". The aluminum water pump was designed for a 1 3/4" hose on the passenger's side.

The "pigtails and sockets" for the rear are part of the wiring harness and are not sealed like the fronts. They just use a snap in socket. You should be able to take the rear light to a store like NAPA and find an appropriate snap in socket and then wire into your harness.

Try Moparts P&S: http://www.marketworks.com/StoreFrontProfiles/DeluxeSFItemDetail.aspx?sid=1&sfid=92390&c=59163&i=2080395

Parts manual shows a 7 blade 18" thermal clutch unit. Part number for fan 2863215. Could not find info on the pitch as there are several 18" 7 blade fans.

I don't keep the car at my house so I will try to get by and look at the cap tomorrow.

Stant has two versions of radiator caps. Just went through same problem with our 68 Barracuda. They have a version that they call "vented" - the small brass vacuuum vent will not be tight to the rubber seal with this style cap. We never got the cooling system to build pressure. We switched...

My 68 Fastback has the crease on the decklid going all the way down the centerline. There are no holes in the exterior sheetmetal but the mounting holes for the Fish-In-A-Circle emblem is in the inertior bracing. Always wondered how you could mount it and make it look right...guess the answer...

Here is a set from Summit Ball-Cup 5/16" 7.234" http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G6420/

If you can find a fender those parts would be removable and if the area where it attaches to your fender is still there it should be fairly easy to weld in. Most of the fenders rust out down low and around the top rear, or you might come across a smashed one that did not damage the front of the...

That was originally part of the fender. I have a picture but I can't even put the link here without getting an error much less insert the actual image!

Here is link for some of the tubular rivets that were used in our cars: http://www.bigflatsrivet.com/index.html but I have not seen the actual pivot reproduced, only seen the part that bolts in the vent window.

The flat finish was standard for those arms. Polished would look nice on a show car but would hate to drive it in the sun!

You can use 3M™ Body Schutz™ Rubberized Coating or RestoRick (http://www.restorick.com) sells an undercoating that looks like the original. We used RestoRick's on the interior and 3M under the car and fenders.

If you are talking about the wire from the I terminal to the two brown wires on the 73 and 74 diagrams from MyMopar.com, then do not wire it like that. It will put 12 volts to the coil full time. Look at the 72 or 75 diagram, that wire is not there as well it should not be.

Man w/o ECS Carter 4721S 3418515 Auto w/o ECS Carter 4722S 3418516 Man w/ECS Carter 4723S 3418517 Auto w/ECS Carter 4724S 3418518

The new holders from NAPA now do not come with a good postive stop for the rotation as you turn them. Got a couple of the older units and then newer units. With newer easy to twist so that contacts are not on pads in cluster. NAPA was the last holdout for the good holders till last year. The...

Look on this page . There are a couple of different sized clips for early Plymouths. I cannot remember which one I used, but I got them to work just fine. Darn old brain, but they do list the dimensions for the clips if you have one of your old ones to use as a template...

Look at this site . They have Mopar sized units that have dual speakers. Bolt right in. http://www.turnswitch.com/speakers.htm

B/E & A restorations. Give Mike a call. http://www.beaparts.com/list_items.aspx?body=A&cat=I&subcat=36

Check the ground of your dash frame. When you turn on the headlights the dash lights also come on. If you have an bad ground on the dash frame it will use the turn signal indicator light to establish a path to ground for the instrument cluster. (Bad ground can also do bad things to the...

TRW/Thompson is one pump and that is what was on our 68 Barracuda with a 318. The other two are the Federal and the Saginaw found on various models and engine sizes. Makes for a nice puzzle game figuring out absolutely what was on what when.

Several on Ebay right now. One is NOS.

Get access to a parts manual. I don't know if the crank is different between a 2 spd and a var/3 spd. If they are same just need motor, switch and release cam (on drive link to connect to crank). (My manual is on another computer not where I am) Most variable speeds also have provision to...

These two charts from the Hamtramck Registery site should help. They left out the Plymouth Interior descriptions but I don't think the Dodge would be any different. http://www.hamtramck-historical.com/paintChipCharts/_1969PaintChipCharts-01.shtml?load_img=4...

If you change to the aluminum water pump you usually need to change crank and water pump pulley and also power steering and alternator brackets. The later Federal or Saginaw pumps have brackets that will work. If you have the Thompson pump then you will have to change power steering pumps...

Check here for a wiring diagram (http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=24). Should answer all questions if not ask back but be sure to let people know what car you are working on as they are not all the samne.