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All you are doing with the wax and grease remover (or water) is giving the surface a temporary gloss so you can see how your body work is coming along. I use a pump up bottle and spray a fine mist to give an even gloss. It will just evaluate off if you do nothing, but it's best to wipe off the...

Just remember, if the metal is flexing while you are blocking, you are making waves. Let the paper do the work. You will likely need to prime and block several times.

Don't use any 1k (non catalyzed) primer.

Exactly. Some of it just looks like e-coat.

You just need to get it close enough for a high build primer (which is fairly close). Careful blocking of the primer is what makes a car straight.

Here is a pic of the 67-68 Camaro cowl induction setup.

Both of those are Chevelle hoods (70-72). For Camaro's only the 69 offered a cowl hood from the factory, it had an internal flap.

Nice Nova.

If they didn't weld it correctly they probably didn't use any corrosion protection inside the rocker after welding. Wherever you take it, make sure they get inside with some cavity wax, at least.

Long story short... You got screwed. It needs to be re-welded by someone that can weld. You have a bunch of shops and techs out there that only care about the amount of hours they push through, not the repair quality.

lol, I told you it wasn't a fun job.

You will be needing this.

This is an absolutely horrible job and I'm a collision tech that does this stuff for a living. My guess is that your regulator was slightly bent and pushing on the glass and that's what caused it to explode. I had the same problem on my 68 Barracuda, minus the broken glass. I can't stress...

I don't like modern colors on old cars, but that's just me.

Mig braze would be my choice. Low heat and easy finishing.

Most body guys don't drill welds on things they don't need to save. Get the stuff below and save 1/2 the time. The belt file I posted is the least expensive one you should get. The belts (60+) are the only ones you should buy. Don't buy the 36 or 80 and don't buy a different brand. Astro...

Are your doors on the car?

I have this but you can get a useable tram gauge for less. Amazon.com: Mo-Clamp MOC7000 Tram Gauge (Universal with Storage Case): Automotive

A tram gauge would help in this situation.

Cars of that vintage used separate lap and shoulder belts. So for one passenger you would have 2 buckles coming off the floor, one to receive the lap belt and one to receive the shoulder belt.

Comet is absolutely fantastic on single stage light colors. White especially. I'd does little to the surface finish. Nothing a waxing won't take care of. Someone is over reacting.

I would use a quality, regular body filler and change your paper often. You want sharp paper. As your paper dulls, you have a natural tendency to press harder. The paper should be doing the work. Pressing hard while blocking makes waves. Your body filler looks undercut, judging by the...

If your car is a single stage metallic (it looks like it is a metallic.), if you cut and/or buff it, you could discolor and basically ruin your paint.

I wouldn't recommend it.

Most will probably disagree with me, but I wouldn't paint it.

I'm a professional collision repair tech and I have that same set in my tool box.

Modern 3m graphic vinyl will last much longer than the stuff used 40+ years ago.

Looks good.

I will be surprised if you have any backside access there. Pull it and fill it. Remember you aren't trying to pull mountains in the middle of the dent, you are trying to pull the entire dent. I could pull and metal finish that, without any filler in an hour.

This will only work if you also add a scoop on the trunk lid to balance things out.