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Mine had rust at the lower rear, and severe dent damage up top. Quarters are hard to find for '66 Valiant and Barracudas. Luckily, another FABO member parted one out and I bought the section I needed to repair mine. This is just mocked up for now. I will trim the section to fit the existing...

Rock Auto has the door and hood stops. Mega Parts has some too. http://www.megapartsusa.com/products.asp?cat=220

My '66 has a single post remote mirror. Does yours look like this one?

I don't remember where I sourced my information about the stripes, so I could be wrong. However, the stripes on the car in the photo are consistent with what I have seen on original and restored cars. You may want to look into it further. I have seen several "incorrect" stripes on '66 model...

Should look like this.

One inch line, one inch space, four inch line, one inch space, four inch line, one inch space, one inch line. Right to left or left to right.

You can get the floor and wheel lip patches here. You might have to make the trunk extensions. http://www.autobodyspecialt.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?search=action&category=0171

Glad to help. Good luck with your project. Got any photos of your car?

The vent window frame is held in by six bolts. Two allen style bolts at the front top of door frame, two under the Barracuda emblem, and two more in the side of the inner door shell. The bracket in the last photo detaches from the vent window frame. I hope these photos help you. It has been...

The rear channel should be removed to get the side glass out. Its held to the rear of the door via three bolts. The bolt holes in my photo are covered by tape.

The front window glass is attached to the regulator by a pin and clip, and a roller and channel. The pin (part of the regulator) and clip, and its mounting hole are shown in the first two photos. The roller and channel are shown in the 3rd photo. Note that the roller for the channel mounted to...

The rear quarter glass is held to its frame via two bolts. The regulator is held in place by three bolts. (not shown here)

Looks like you've got it. There's no telling what you'll find under 40+ years of who knows what. You should start a build thread in the Members Restorations section and document the whole process. We would love to track your progress.

A backing strip is a piece of metal located behind a butt weld or groove weld. It helps eliminate burn through on light gauge sheet metal. When you get a minute, post some progress photos of what you've done.

These guys are right on. If you are stripping the car down to bare metal, 320 will take forever. My suggestion with the 320 is if you plan on keeping some of the old finish as a substrate. If you can't afford or don't have access to media blasting equipment, I would suggest buying a D/A sander...

Yes, 320 on the whole car. 36 is good for surface prep before laying down filler. It gives the filler something to hold on to. You will want to cut the rust out completely. Your Dart is mostly flat surfaces anyway. You can learn to use the flat block on curves to a degree. There are curved...

Don't sand the whole car with 36. 320 on a D/A (dual action) sander or with a sanding block would work well for the whole car. A D/A would be faster. Remove all the trim and emblems before you sand. That roof pillar rust is probably worse than it looks. I think you will be happier in the long...

This one's more thorough. Sorry about that. http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=87789

This is how I fixed my trunk hinges. Scroll down almost all the way down. I don't think there are OEM pins available. Hope this helps. I don't know about the mirror. http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=82156&page=2

Strip caulk.

Here is a three part video of an amateur glass install. The first one is a little slow, but check out all three to get the idea. This job does not look too difficult if you have a few sets of extra hands to help you. Vintage at the Vineyards 2008 - Windshield install demo part 1 - YouTube...

This stuff works really well at stripping paint and undercoating. Just don't get it on your skin. I wear rubber gloves for handling chemicals and a face shield.

Do you have any pictures to share? Sounds like a good repair.

You might have to fabricate them yourself. They would be easy to make.

Go to Hobby Lobby or an art supply store and get some large water color paper to make templates of the panels you need to make. Cut them to size and transfer them on to the sheet metal. You can get the sheet metal from an auto body paint supply or through J.C. Whitney. If you are new to body...

The 3M super weatherstrip adhesive works great, do one to two feet at a time, let it tack up and lay your weather strip on, and repeat. This stuff will hold up excellently.

Glad to help. The project is going slowly right now, I'm working a lot but getting at it as time allows. More pics will follow as work progresses. Thanks for asking.8)

I don't know if the '65's are the same, but '66 through at least '69 look like this. I'm not sure what you want but this might help. Sorry if picture size is off, just switched to a new system and don't have it all figured out yet. The toggle has to be removed in order to feed the cables through...

Check the O.D. of the bushing with a micrometer or caliper and use a drill bit that will give a snug slip fit. If the bit is the same size, you can ream it to perfection. The end goal is to eliminate slop in the hinge. That's how I did mine and they are solid. If the bushing spins in the hole...

Thanks for the offer Bob, got 'er done.8)