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I believe that is the radiator I used 5 years ago, but I'm not 100% positive. The only modification was that I needed to drill new mounting holes. It has worked great, I've put about 8K miles on the engine since then with no radiator issues.

Just changed my wheels...

I talked to one of the reps from the cool carb company at a national show. He told me he didn't recommend for the /6 because the core material had melted on some /6 users. Their website includes the following. "This product is not recommended for the use on: 1. Intakes with heat crossovers...

Is this only on start up? Is choke engaged ? Once up to speed how does it run? Is this new problem? What have you done between when it ran better and now? Was it stored for winter? If so, how long did it sit? Have you adjusted carb settings?

Try to determine if it is the pertronix ignitor I, II, or III; they are wired differently. See this website for wiring diagrams. My pertronix unit deletes the ballast resistor completely. www.pertronix.com

Great car! Then again, I'm biased by the fact that I have it's twin. What kind of electronic ignitions does it have? What other diagnostic tests have you done?

As stated, cleaning is critical to any paint project. I had great success with Eastwood 2-part engine paint. I applied it with a brush and it was self leveling. It dries very hard and has not peeled after about 2k miles. Pics in my build thread if your interested. I think brush is easier than...

Was the distributor working properly before you installed the pertronix? My ignitor II went in (with their high output coil) without any troubles. Super easy. Been working great about 1 year. Did you delete the ballast resistor? What else, if anything, did you change during this upgrade?

Here is a post I put on .org of the slant 6 cars I found at Mopar Nationals last weekend. http://www.slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=55960&highlight=

Crazy cool!

Nice score! That air conditioning will be nice in Arizona!

Here is info on the slant six bee decals: http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?p=1970366270#post1970366270 send me a private message if you want a pair.

This slant owner doesn't want your stuPIdiTY.

that is like asking the bartender to help you quit drinking.

Everyone's definition of "cool" is different. Here is my slant with stock cam with 2.25 exhaust and a glasspack. Slant Six 2.25" exhaust with glasspack - YouTube I used Eastwood 2-part engine paint in the original '72 colors. But they have lots of colors if you want something custom. The...

Although this may be obvious, you'll want to remove the thermostat to allow the water to flow out, especially if you just do the hose flush. If you plumb the circuit together, I think your going to want to flush the block with straight water to flush all the gunk out. You'll likely need to...

Yes, that will work. Just stick a garden hose into the top of your old radiator to keep water filling the system. Keep it running until the water comes out clean. That is exactly how I did my last flush.

Because there is nothing else quite like them...

I've read that the slant motors need a little more back pressure than true dual exhausts provide. That most people that run headers or dutra duals dump them into a single exhaust pipe and muffler. Anyone care to comment on this from a performance standpoint?

NICE! thanks for posting.

Thanks guys. I don't think it is leaking so I'll just leave it for now. Thanks for the help.

I was scrubbing my intake manifold with a wire brush in preparation for some engine paint. I noticed the bolt below was loose and then discovered it was rusted completely off. Can someone please educate me about the function of this bolt - does it hold the intake and exhaust manifolds...

Here is what worked on my '72. http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=251206339033&globalID=EBAY-US

I have read that the ethanol in gas can degrade these plastic filters. Has anybody experienced this? Sure would be a bad place to have a fuel leak!

Engine and car look great! Enjoy and drive with pride.

If I remember correctly, when I installed my Ignitor II, the instructions recommended removing the ballast resistor from the circuit for optimal performance. Not sure if the same is recommended for the original Ignitor system. Might be worth checking. All installation instructions can be...

Because variety is the spice of life. I drive my /6 Scamp almost daily Spring-Fall, but I don't drag race or do burnouts. And I wouldn't if I had a 340. My /6 is basically stock with electronic ignition and larger exhaust. It has plenty of torque and acceleration to keep up with traffic...

I get 16-18 around town, 22-24 hwy with stock intake and 1bbl. I would double check carb, timing, and valve adjustment. Are you running points?

Some one who knows more may correct me, but I believe the 904 bell housing is different for /6 and v8. Making them not not interchangeable.

You may be more likely to get the help you need if you describe your problems in more detail. What is the car doing that leads you to believe the carb is the issue?