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La 360 stroker solid roller it runs a Hv pump broken in using Joe Gibbs break in after 8k have been using a synthetic with Zinc 15-40 or 20-50 . 75psi cold ,hot idle @850 rpm to provide some oil splash on lifters 35-40 psi 2000rpm and over 65psi . Top end gets fed the via hollow push rod tubes...

And a good solid roller !

Nothing like a sound of a sewing machine. You know they are adjusted correctly. Just a little quieter with a solid roller once warm. Love it.

Oil not blowing out your dip stick tube ? Good easy test to do remove the dip stick get a small balloon and put it over the tube it’s got to fit tight and get the rpm’s up look at the balloon if it starts to inflate it will give you some indication if your building crank case pressure .

I’ve had mine for 4 years with that composite base no issues with any rust like the old ones you would see , possible as a heat deflector for the trigger sensor ? as they were prone on failing . Just my 2 cents !

I’m using the Hughes solid roller lifters that I purchased off fishy68 from here over 4 years ago engine is coming up to 20k no issues . Just use a decent oil synthetic, and don’t get carried away on the spring pressures ,use within the lifter & cam recommendations and you should be fine .

These guys I know well & his statement was months before my engine made it into the dyno room . These guys build pretty exotic engines for the dirt track community and are down to to earth no bullshit type of people who do great machine work and engine building . True there are types out there...

Just run it 493 ain’t no slouch believe me I was a little disappointed with mine 470 -518 and my engine builder said don’t get hung up on numbers as his dyno was on the liner side mate it still puts a smile on my face still after 15k It pulls this A body with no effort and yours a 4 speed .,Get...

Used Joe Gibbs mineral based for break in first motor 318 solid flat tappet, 2nd engine stroker solid roller both engines put around 5k miles than have switched to full synthetic Penrite with Zinc 15-40. I always inspect oil on change 3000 mile spotless no signs of any metal. When I removed...

The Housing I use is billet after market type which has the O ring but I use the summit alloy Gasket with the rubber coating around the bolt holes and inner edge thermostat opening . Not cheap but they work flawlessly and are reusable .

Just took a flick of mine run it on the other side of the thermostat housing .

Doc sounds like your secondary flap is opening to early there is a spring adjustment on the side of the carb by adjusting the spring clockwise 1/4 turn at a time I think you cannot go more than 1 turn max it will delay the transition from 2 to 4 . Note keep pressure on that locking screw...

An alignment hone at least.

I use the ball to ball pushrods with oil through

Jimmer I use the Hughes retro solid lifters motor in my LA 360 stroker has done 11k . No issues at all , when I pulled the engine due to rear main leak I inspected cam lobes while the sump was off . All lobes looked good no wear mind you I do have it idling @ 850rpm to allow some splash and use...

I wouldn’t use that I’ve tried it on my water pump bolts and it still wept coolant out. I found that stuff as no flex and goes flaky when dried and will leak through vibration it would allow coolant to pass through . Ended up using aviation cement non hardening for removal.

I run the ARP studs with a Girdle in my stroker and specs are 85flbs max on the main caps , Hughes instructions in the kit and a bolt under the pump . Pump casing was clearanced to allow no interference between bolt head .

Is your fuel cap a breathable type ? Possible breather pipe blocked with debris causing a vacuum in the tank and not allowing fuel to flow or slowing fuel delivery down.

Use these I know they are expensive but work perfect and reusable. I purchased 2 of these and never had to use the 2nd one and I’ve had this on and off quite a few times when I was deciding and trying different thermostats . No silicon needed. Summit Racing® Thermostat Housing Gaskets SUM-G2399

Thanks I’ve seen them do that when they were fitted backwards they bind up against the chain but on that thread the op stated there were 2 types which measured lager than the other which I’ve never heard of before . Thanks for that something to look out for.

Cal no issues with the slinger on mine and bottom gear had no fitment issues considering tightness.

On CCams web site their solid rollers extreme series cams they state billet steel I call belony as RAMM stated , It’s a Austentic core I use their XR -274R and use the Mopar performance distributor drive shaft with harden tip with the standard gear as I purchased the melodised gear from Hughes...

And the midget !:rolleyes:

https://www.hotrod.com/articles/la-engine-kicking-ls-butt-dyno/?sm_id=organic_fb_HRN_trueanthem&utm_campaign=&utm_medium=&utm_source=

He’s the latest With the turbo but has said it’s too big and will put a smaller one on later and rerun this .

Quite the opposite he is pretty switched on really enjoy his vids.

Thanks Mike they don’t but the seal which came with the Gasket set did. The seal you used must be made of a different material. These black ones are a hit and miss.

Have had a few people with issues running these seals was told to run the magnum type to fix the leak issues . Got on to Mopar performance parts for the superformace double lip seal for the 360 and they don’t have any in stock and with this COVID going on they don’t know when they will be back...

I’ve got a small leak which is giving me the ***** But it’s small the size of a 10c piece and I will Need to pull the engine due to having the kevko pan which slides in a unique way and the stud girdle as well . Headers I’ve have mastered to fit and remove once you have done it a few times. I...