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My suggestion worked with BB cast covers that come with a breather/filler hole already knocked out. The opposite end is not (just a blank) like you see in these pics. I've got the pcv in the notched breather hole on right side, and a twist-on filler/breather cap on the opposite cover.

I know exactly what you need for a Wagner PCV to MP cast cover and am pretty sure you won't find the correct aftermarket grommet at most stores. Order a Ford Performance Parts Valve Cover Grommet Set M-6892-F from Summit or similar. Fit and works perfectly. :thumbsup:

It would drive me crazy too.

I'd say don't sand anything. You'll make it worse. The material is intentionally soft so debris will embed rather that score journals. Worse case, scrape a high spot with a sharp blade and leave it alone. A tiny pit in the material won't make a lick of difference.

I believe this is what would have worked for you if the breather (or whatever) requires a 3/4" hole. I have personally confirmed this on my own MP cast valve covers - perfect fit (replacing the MP PCV grommet): Ford Performance Parts Valve Cover Grommet Sets M-6892-F My photo below. MP and...

Yeah, that is crazy. It’s been several years but I think I got them through their EBay store for quite a bit less.

Got a couple of 750's through these guys. Saved some $ but I was modifying them anyways. They looked and functioned fine. Holley and Edelbrock Carburetors: High Performance Rebuilt Carburetors For Your Car!

You basically remove your torsion bars, unbolt the front suspension (shocks and UCA's), remove the 4 k-member bolts and lift the body up.

Another thumbs-up for the Eastwood stuff. It has looked and held up much better than rattle can (at least the Duplicolor Engine Enamel). If I recall I didn't use a primer either.

Short on exhaust, tall on intake.

Had the same problem many years ago on a 340 when incorrect intake bolts were installed. They had shoulders on them. This prevented proper clamping of intake to heads. The intake ports sucked oil from the valley. It really put a James Bond smoke screen to shame.

I can imagine not wanting to blow a core plug out of a circle track car but, like you, my choice would be the Permatex.

Examples....

Rear diff gear ratio?

Surely you meant silicon and not silicone? :) :)

I agree, an experienced welder should be able to rebuild that ear. I've had it done on an RB block.

Check out Hoffman's - Classic probably gets them from them. http://www.hoffmanswinnerscircle.com/cat16.htm Also, if a belt is thrown, and it has been stretched/tweaked severely, it'll never run true again. I've seen it. You may have to throw it away and get a new one. But start with a proper...

That relates to my question about the intake bolts. Had a 340 Challenger in which the fully threaded intake bolts were "replaced" with bolts that had a short shoulder on them. Bolts were tight, all seemed well when, in fact, the shoulder was stopping the bolt from threading into the head further...

Original intake bolts - fully threaded?

The 'ol Dakota (or equiv) starter swap is a very worthwhile "upgrade" in my book. Will out-spin a gear reduction unit all day. Sure like it with my BB.

Back in the '80's when I played with NOS it was nary a worry to throw a 100-150 shot on a factory cast piston motor. Biggest worry (and still is) is to make sure your fuel solenoid opened when it should. Like others have already said, beyond that your internals should be built accordingly and...

No, should not be necessary.

With the notch or groove on the top of the piston pointing toward the front of the engine, the larger chamfer (bevel) on the connecting rod bore must be installed toward the crankshaft journal fillet (the crankshaft journal for that cylinder). That means, for one bank of pistons, the rod...

That's always a possibility. The "threaded insert" that the factory used is just spot welded in place. Go slow - cut some thread, back it off, repeat.

No sweat.

An example at Autozone: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Needa-Parts-Oil-Drain-Plug/_/N-8gd4w?itemIdentifier=256837_339494_0_

You're right. I checked your post again and see that it never really gets tight. Was thinking maybe it was tight but still leaking.

The HELP section of any auto parts store should have them. I believe it's 1/2". I'm concerned that you put a new gasket on and the problem remained or got worse.

Stripped pan and/or missing gasket. Someone probably crossed threaded the plug along the way. You can buy a self tapping repair plug which will cut fresh threads. It'll include a nylon or similar gasket too. Might even include a built-in magnet.

Those pumps are rated at up to 8-9 psi. You should be running a regulator set between 5 to 6.5 psi. Anything over that can overpower your needle and seat on the carb - and it will happen causing problems you don't want. Don't bother with the cheap (Spectre) inline regulators. You should be...