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Thanks for the help. A couple of good links to read there. I have a better understanding of it now. I think I will start by replacing the stud with a bolt and see if it helps, if it does then I will try opening the hole in the bottom of the rocker shaft. I have some good info and ideas to try...

Thanks for the advice guys. I will try swapping the head stud with a bolt and see if that helps. I didn't try to see if oil would spurt out of the pedestal with the rocker shaft removed because I didn't want to make a mess all over my garage floor. It definitely had a lot of oil come out with...

If you are going to do it that way, you have to turn the crank 20-30 degrees at a time and then stop for a while to wait for the oil to appear. I'll bet you are just not finding the right spots. If the oil flowed out of the feed hole in the pedestal slowly, then you did not find it. It ought to...

I forgot to mention that part. I was turning the motor over slowly with a breaker bar on the crank while a friend was running the drill.

Motor is a 340 with cast iron J heads. I have a set of adjustable rockers from a 273 that I was going to use. The rocker shafts that were originally with the 273 rockers were worn noticeability so I swapped them with a set of shafts that had the stamped rockers. I put everything together and...

I have a 360 in the shed for a core. I will tear it apart and see if it has one that I can use. I guess better safe than sorry. Thanks again.

I am putting my 340 back together finally. When I disassembled the engine there wasn't an oiling tab for the timing chain and the bolt with the oil hole was missing and a regular bolt was in its place. I have heard mixed opinions about the oiling bolt and the tab. How important are they? Should...

I did the same swap in my 74 Duster. I just used the Schumacher motor mounts. I beat the snot out of my 360 and I haven't had a problem with them. You will probably have to get a bigger radiator also. I used summit racings block hugger headders to avoid the steering linkage interference and they...

I called them this morning and there is not a bolt kit that works with the windage tray. I have to order the windage tray hardware kit plus a main cap bolt kit for another $45. Sure wish they would include the Vaseline in the price because I am sick of getting f#$%ed. I love Mopar but some times...

I am going to call them and see what I can do. I looked at the picture and assumed the same thing. That it over $15 per bolt for the kit I received. Highway robbery if you ask me. Mancini has vague descriptions of their parts. I should have known better from past experiences with them.

I ordered the bolt kit that krazykuda recommended. I guess I didn't realize that it is only the 4 main bolts that are tapped for the windage tray. It does not come with the other 6 main bolts. Not too happy about it. What good is a kit with only 4 of the 10 bolts? I am still looking for the rest...

I was not so lucky. I torqued all of the main caps down with the old bolts and one by one started replacing them with the studs torquing them as I replaced them. I started with the number 2 cap and after I torqued the second stud I could barely turn the crank. I ordered bolts from Mancini. If...

Thanks krazykuda. It has been a while since I ordered from Mancini and I couldn't find them. Thanks again.

I know there are threads discussing the main bolts already but I can't find the one that said where to buy new main bolts that work with a windage tray. I purchased ARP main studs only to find out after the fact that I should line hone the mains with studs. I already have the cam bearings, oil...

Thanks crackedback. It didn't really matter much but I just wanted to know. I appreciate it.

Can someone help me decode this 340? I know the block is a 69 but I am curious what it would have came out of. The casting date is 7-14-69. The numbers on the oil pan rail are 0B183694 I believe, they are hard to make out. The numbers on the pad by the head are FW340P30100285. The casting...

The 360 in my 73 Duster has the stock bottom end with J heads that have 1.88 valves. I did some minor porting to the heads to gasket match and clean up the runners. It has a Edelbrock RPM Airgap inake with a Holley 750. Comp cams XE268H cam and springs. Heddman block hugger headders with 2-1/4"...

If you have the stock capacity oil pan just dump 5 quarts in it and insert the dipstick and see where it is at. I bought an aftermarket chrome one for my duster and had to do the same thing. I made a hash mark for the full mark and called it good.

I got lucky if you could call it that. The valve dropped straight down and stuck in the piston so it hammered the hell out of the head but didn't touch the cylinder wall. The rod has a slight bend so I am getting different pistons and rods. I suppose I wouldn't have to hone the cylinders...

I am in the process of gathering parts for my 340 to put it back together again. It dropped a valve shortly after the breakin because of a stupid mistake on my part. Since it has minimal run time on it would it be ok to use the piston rings again? I am planning on honing the cylinders. The...

That is good news. saves me some $$$. What would be a good solid cam for that motor?

I am starting to gather parts to build my 340. The block is a 69 bored .030. I have my eye on some TRW 2316 pistons from another member here. I will either be using a set of X heads or some worked over J heads with 2.02/1.60 valves. I have an Edelbrock RPM Airgap intake and Holley 750 carb...

Did you check valve to piston clearance? I built a 340 that was similar. I used the pistons that were in it and heads that were on it. I put a new cam in it and had issues with valves hitting the top of the pistons.

Then engine is completly tore down now. I planned on putting all new bearings in and cleaning the block again. Not sure what the pistons that are in it are. I used the pistons that were in it when I built it the first time. I will feel more at ease with all new pistons and rebalancing the...

I have decided to rebuild my 340 for the 2nd time. It dropped a valve after the first rebuild.... don't ask.:banghead: The block is fine but the head is shot and so is the piston. I was wondering what everyone was running for pistons in their 340? I was considering Keith Black KB243 pistons...

Here are a few pics.

All of the intake valves were slightly tapping the pistons. One valve stem broke and the valve head went thru the center of the piston and stuck there. It did not wreck the cylinder. My phone will not let me upload the photos so I will try when I get home from work. The numbers on the pad...

I will try to get some pictures posted tomorrow along with the casting numbers. I am at work now.

Hello all. I have a 1969 340 and I was wondering what it is worth. All the machine work is done on the block. It is bored .030 over, crank is polished, block is zero decked and was cooked out. I built the motor but I made a rookie mistake and forgot to check valve to piston clearance. It...

The bottom end is stock with factory pistons. I have a complete cam kit from a 340 that dropped a valve durring break-in (long storry and sore subject). The cam is a Comp XE268H with matching springs and lifters. I also have an RPM Airgap with a 750 carb. Just wondering what everyone thinks of...