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Figured it out. I was looking at the toolbar above the text. Anyway this was warm. Car has been sitting since 7 am pacific time.

This morning I made it a mission to go to the wrecking yard and find me a decent one. If I can find any older dodges. I was looking at the flasher right now because they don't flash. I came across what looks like a flasher but has 3 prongs and is narrower and a bit longer. Somewhat under where...

Definitely the new switch. Just plugged in the old one and brake switch doesn't blow the fuse, hazards don't either.

Headlights, taillights, horn work. No radio. Glove box light comes on with new fuse but brakes and hazards kill it. Signals work all the way around except when hazard switch is pulled.

It's something under the dash or in the column. I unplugged the wires behind the drivers kick panel and blew my last 20a fuse. Leaves me with 1 30a. Nothing looks exposed underneath. i forgot to mention, because I've seen it asked, but it does have a grant wheel. The adaptor has the ring for the...

I'm pretty sure it's the Harvard side of the switch. If the link worked, it's a video of the ammeter. The first click in the video is the turn signal switch. The secon is when I pull the hazard switch. The fuse for them is blown, or at least should be since it was the 6th one I used that day.

Thank you for the quick reply. Unfortunately that was my thought. I had got one from classic industries as I thought they would be better quality than say autozone or Ebay. I never did thoroughly inspect or compare the 2. Tonight I will pull it of some and inspect it.

Hi everyone. is there a way to repair an oem turn signal switch? Or where i can buy a good quality one. i installed a new one from Classic Industries because my switch wasn't working for left turns and sometimes not for right turn. Now the new one is just giving me problems. Car is a 73 dart...

I did happen to get pictures. all but one you can't see the interference. the only one visible is with the starter removed. however it wasn't like i was imagining. it actually looked ground down already. the problem was the post adaptor. popped the cap i didn't know it had to expose the nuts...

Yeah that's what I read too. Only fitment issue with big blocks. I will try to get a good pic from under tomorrow. It might be tough as I crawl under with all 4 tires on the ground. The autozone for a 94 ram v6 or 8 and the 73 318 don't seem to different as far as mounting surface.

Or would they all have the same mounting space shape? like would some not have casting where the tab would be?

By any chance does your 318 have the tab on the block? i looked at auto zone for 91 dodge ram charger (had the 5.2l option) and a 91 Dakota (5.2l option) and both had the same part number.

Hello everyone. My 73 swinger won't start, barley cranks a few times before it gives up. My dad, an old Mopar guy, says sounds like the starter. I bought a smaller starter from a Dakota at a wrecking yard in preparation for header install. However upon installation, it sat crooked against what...

http://www.mymopar.com/index.php?pid=27

mymopar.com that has wiring diagrams.

Yes it is. I removed it for awhile but it's back on.

I would like to get an edelbrock. Looking at 1400 or 1405 or so. Would like an electric chock. Can't seem to find on in the for sale ads in my budget or reasonably priced on eBay. Looked into something spreadbore as is the manifold. Got the dizzy back in and fired up. Set it 16 initial. Don't...

That's what I'm going with. Just got the limiter plate in the 18 degree slot. About to set my reluctor gap and see how things go. Went with the silver spring shooting for all in at 2750

Thats exactly the reason for this post. the most ive seen someone on here run a 318 at is 20 but thats with a mild cam. The reason i am doing this is cause i had a hesitation from low speed to wot. months ive worked on the carb and accelerator pump. back to basics.. timing then carb. another...

And any advice on the all in rpm would be great. This car would just be the car i drive if i dont want to drive my wifes mazda. around town, 5 miles or so to work, etc.

So for weeks, ive been searching for ways to set my inital timing. ive increased until it kicks back on the starter, even though it hasnt yet. advanced till i got the highest vacuum, about 18 to 19 on the guage. end result is between 24 and 26 degrees BTDC. i have FBO limiter plate and springs...

I think I figured it out. When I lift it, it comes up just enought to clear the weights. But pull harder and it comes out. Pretty sure there is a clip that is supposed to hold it. Found out the bottom says 11 so it would add 22 degrees of timing.

it actually has that. when i took off top plate to reveal the advance plate, i seen that clip and it was kinda crooked. still locked in center tab but not aligned with the pin in one of the "fingers". I just feel as with enough rotating force or changing rotors might cause it to lift and...

Ive been looking for information on the subject but can't find an answer. Would a distributor from a 318 in a van differ from a 318 in a dart? i pulled one off a van that had the vacuum advance on it to replace the one on my dart that didn't have the vacuum advance. after swapping to a 4 barrel...

I wired up a fuel gauge but hadnt connected to sender yet. Connected positive lead to the first tab of three tabs on fuse box, next to the accessory lead connection, and ground lead to a ground screw. Connecting ground to the lead on + side of gauge doesn't cause light to light up. Should it or...

Yeah I have it on right. Drove it to work which is about 10 minutes away from home and seemed to get worse and worse.

I've tried turning it and it doesn't budge. The rotor and shaft turnabout a quarter turn. The distributor has the hole for the vacuum advance but not installed.

as of now the car won't start and looks like something coming out the air filter when trying to start it. it all started with me removing the cap and rotor. took a picture and put it back together. the next morning it would start only with the gas pedal pushed but die if i let off. to day it...

update: checked wires around distributor, seen stream of fuel as i opened throttle, turned in screw for choke lever holding it open, and tapped fuel bowl. my guess is maybe it was flooded, needs new float or choke stays closed.

Ever since I took of the dizzy cap and rotor, and put the back, my car feels sluggish, rough idle and bogs and sputters on acceleration.