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Really, really nice work. Excellent job. Hey where's the CalTrac guys? lol

To be totally honest I should have just put a Dana in my Duster years ago. It was at the point where the car never made a full pass with the 4 speed in it. I was faced with either putting in a Dana or an automatic. I chose the auto for the lighter weight.

Actually it's not. As someone who has an 8.75 rear in my race car the selection is pathetic. You can only buy one pro gear, a 4.88 and that's if you can find that. I've broken many 8.75's. Mostly the ring gears. I have the aluminum center section and it helps but I am still capable of...

Impossible to tell without knowing the specifics of the truck. Front segment length, spring width, front spring bolt diameter etc. I'm sure the basics are the same so you can probably make them work.

I would suggest using all 5 wheel studs first.

Cool stuff. I make most of my own stuff too unless it's just cheaper to buy it or I can't make it, like pistons.

Oops, 2600 lbs. with me in it race ready, 2430 without me in it. It still has all the factory glass in it and the front windows still roll up and down. I hate Lexan. So no fiberglass doors.

Here is the car when it was just backhalved but it didn't stay that way for very long.

I was originally just going to back half it, but well you know how it goes, one thing leads to another and I ended up with a 2x3 chassis car with a strut front end.

Yeah, the lower bar should be parallel with the ground. That sounds about right. Here's how mine sits now And how low I can put it but I thought this was too low.

Badart, interesting setup. Do you have a side view pic of the car? Maybe it's the angle that the other pic was taken from but it looks like your car sits pretty high in the rear. And what size tire is that?

I know what you mean, I didn't want to cut my Duster up as it's originally a 340 4 speed car so instead I built the Scamp. Coil overs may offer a little more adjustment than leafs only because the adjustable shock selection is probably better. Ladder bars don't have the adjustability of the...

It can be done using the stock frame rails (Baughmans killer SS Hemi Dart had this set up done) but you'll have to pretty much fab it yourself or buy the brackets and bars and modify it to fit your frame rail. The upper and lower bars won't end up being equal length but that doesn't really...

The last set of those I bought sucked, one shock was always stiff and the other loose. I bought the QA1 stocker star shocks after that. Good stuff there.

The biggest reason for adding ladder bars or a four link is to gain additional tire clearance for big tires. I wouldn't bother adding ladder bars or a four link without back halfing the car, it's a waste of money. Save some more money, back half it with a four link (then you get all the...

A slide hammer is the preffered method but if you don't have one then the wheel trick may work. Use an old wheel and you could even smack it a few times with a hammer from behind if nec. but tighten the lug nuts up first.

My personal preferance would be to massage the wheel opening rather than move the rear back. I left my Dusters in the stock location with a 29.5 tire but still had to massage the front and rear of the wheel opening because leaf springs move around too much.

You've got a 14:1 440 with a .670 lift roller cam and you're still using leaf springs? I just don't understand...

You can buy new housing ends and have that rear narrowed at the same time. You'd then be assured of the correct fit. You have to buy axles anyway so it's not that big of a deal. Most driveline or race shops will narrow the rear for about $150 plus the ends are about $70 for a pair. Possibly...

lol, have welder, will cobble.

There's your answer right there. The perches weren't welded in the proper position. You'll have to cut them off and weld new ones on.

It's a trial an error process for sure. I found my car likes the shocks soft and the bars just touching the spring in the upper hole.

Well I think a great deal of the satisfaction with any particular product is a direct result of the final installation and matching of the intended use. Let's face it any product labeled "street/strip" is a compromise. Anyone purchasing this product should understand this. Likewise any...

I've heard stories about Magnum Force also when I researched their K frame. I also know of people who've had no problems with it. It is pricey though and yes the upper shock mount needs additional bracing. It was never meant to hold the weight of the car. As for the other units I can only say...

You definitely need new strut rods, I'd suggest adjustable ones as it's nearly impossible on these cars to get positive caster and camber anymore. The tops of the frame rails roll inward taking all the adjustment away. There are adjustable upper control arms for this also but you should get your...

Morons, there is no such thing, it's not a Ford.

If it's a street car then a little positive camber is a good thing, about 1/4 degree. As for caster you can change this to suit your driving style but generally 3 to 5 degrees positive is good. Positive caster keeps the car going straight but it's harder to turn the steering wheel. I like to...

Yes it is a beautiful car. Nice work. The only thing I can tell you is I started mine with the rod ends screwed in half way, had it aligned that way. I got 3 degrees positive caster and 1/4 degree positive camber that way. I didn't feel that was enough so I changed it the way I did it in this...

Well I thought I'll just cut the old strut rods and it will be a piece of cake to put the new ones in, wrong. You can't install the bushings separate because you can't get the pivot bolt in the bracket once the bushings are in the K frame. You have to install it assembled. The rear bolt goes...

OK, here are some pics.