4 link question

-
USCG CHARGER

USCG CHARGER

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 25, 2007
Messages
2,486
Reaction score
49
I would love to put a four link in my Dart but I dont wanna back half it.. Is there a 4 link kit that I can install using my stock frame? I Dont need the huge tires but I would love the traction and adjustability of a 4 link.
 
Yup I like that kit too.. I called Bill and asked about his kit, but he said my car would need a different kit b/c of the expected power... we are hoping to be in the 9's.... I thought his kit would be fine but he advised me to get a four link vs his.

saying that what other kits are out there that use stock frames?
 
It can be done using the stock frame rails (Baughmans killer SS Hemi Dart had this set up done) but you'll have to pretty much fab it yourself or buy the brackets and bars and modify it to fit your frame rail.

The upper and lower bars won't end up being equal length but that doesn't really matter.

Personally though, I'd go ahead and just back half it, you can do it like a SS car and leave most of the stock trunk floor in it but you'll still need a fuel cell in the trunk and a rear firewall.

Why do you think you don't need the big tire?
 
Thx Jones,

IT's not that I dont think that I need a huge tire, its more along the lines of I dont want to cut the car up that much. I also know that it donesn't get any better than a four link. I have done about a wks worth of research on this and it's either ladder bars or 4 link. This car will be 85% strip and have a R1 416 stroker with ported W9 heads. I race up and down the east coast and so the tracks are never prepped the same. I'm not familiar with the ladder bars and I read that they are tough to dial in vs the 4 link system.

If I was to use a ladder bar system with the coil overs how tough is that to dial in and hows the performance vs the ladders with the leafs?

Cal-tracs are a thrid option of me as well... obviously the easies but I already have so much coin tied up in this car I dont want to short change myself in the suspension department.
 
You may have seen this before, but this is what I made up without cutting up the floor pans and was fabricated to weld between the frame rails. It also ties into my sub frame connectors so it is very solid. I purchased a Chris Alston street 4-link and pieced everything else together through other sources, but there are other kits out there that should work. Here are a couple of pics, they are not that great, but you get the idea. After these pics I did have to allow about another inch for my drive line to have clearance on the bottom of the crossmember.

I also welded in a crossmember for the coilovers upper mounts. The track bar runs from the top passenger side of the housing to the drivers frame rail. So far I am really happy, but I still have some adjusting to do and need to swap out to 150# springs. The car does hook great even on the street. Like I said earlier is that the only drawback with a crossmember like this is the exhaust. I just dump mine before the rear axle or you could have it exit the side of the vehicle.

Just to let you know that I am not a drag racer. I just really like the look and functionality of a 4-link. Hope this helps a little.

4link.jpg


4link1.jpg


New dart2.jpg
 
I know what you mean, I didn't want to cut my Duster up as it's originally a 340 4 speed car so instead I built the Scamp.

Coil overs may offer a little more adjustment than leafs only because the adjustable shock selection is probably better. Ladder bars don't have the adjustability of the four link.

In my opinion if you aren't going to put the big tire on it or at least a 33" inch tall 10.5 tire you are going to short change yourself anyway. So if you insist on not cutting the car I think CalTracs would be a better option as they at least offer more adjustment than ladder bars. But man with that combination and the variety of track conditions you might just want to bite the bullet and go ahead and cut it. It's really more cost effective to just do it now rather than find out later you still have traction issues and aren't happy with it.

My 10.60 Duster with the CalTracs and a 11.5/29.5 tire worked when the track was good but later at night when the track would go away it was a crapshoot. Almost took the tree out one night. But I love my four link car, and I haven't made but one adjustment to it except for shock settings since it's been together. Always goes down the track when other cars don't.

Something else to think about I guess.
 
Badart, interesting setup. Do you have a side view pic of the car? Maybe it's the angle that the other pic was taken from but it looks like your car sits pretty high in the rear. And what size tire is that?
 
Guitar Jones said:
Badart, interesting setup. Do you have a side view pic of the car? Maybe it's the angle that the other pic was taken from but it looks like your car sits pretty high in the rear. And what size tire is that?
Click to expand...

It is actually the angle of the camera. I will try and get a pic later. Since this picture I have lowered the car about 2" in the rear and the lower bar is parallel with the ground. I think it sits just about right now. There is just a little rake to it. I am running a 325/50/15 drag radial. They barely fit.
 
Badart said:
It is actually the angle of the camera. I will try and get a pic later. Since this picture I have lowered the car about 2" in the rear and the lower bar is parallel with the ground. I think it sits just about right now. There is just a little rake to it. I am running a 325/50/15 drag radial. They barely fit.
Click to expand...

Yeah, the lower bar should be parallel with the ground. That sounds about right.

Here's how mine sits now

361698019.jpg


And how low I can put it but I thought this was too low.

265864455.jpg
 
I was originally just going to back half it, but well you know how it goes, one thing leads to another and I ended up with a 2x3 chassis car with a strut front end.

301986175.jpg
 
Oops, 2600 lbs. with me in it race ready, 2430 without me in it. It still has all the factory glass in it and the front windows still roll up and down. I hate Lexan. So no fiberglass doors.
 
I love the way that dart sits with the four link in it... But I have to stock top my guns and say no back half as of now...lol... Now maybe this time next yr when I want to take this to another level I might reconsider it...

Baddart I really like ur set up as well but not sure if my fab guy is capable of that cross member....lol
 
Guitar Jones said:
Oops, 2600 lbs. with me in it race ready, 2430 without me in it. It still has all the factory glass in it and the front windows still roll up and down. I hate Lexan. So no fiberglass doors.
Click to expand...

Very cool looking dart and some impressive fabricating skills. Looks fast sitting still.
 
Here are some pics for you USCG Charger. Sorry about the road grime and the seam sealer over the welds, but you get the idea. The welds are actually good and this thing feels solid as a rock with it being tied into the frame connectors. The car hooks really good, but I am sure that the detroit locker and drag radials help. I was unable to use the factory fuel tank because of the coilover crossmember. I am also currently running 200lb springs, but they are a little stiff and I am thinking about swapping out to 150lb springs for a little better ride on the street.

Dart side.jpg


4-link1.jpg


4-link2.jpg


4-link3.jpg


4-link4.jpg


4-link5.jpg
 
Yeah LOL. Paint can wait I still have some body work to do. No trips to the track yet. I am only running a magnum headed 318 right now. I have built the rest of the car to handle the stroker motor once I get it built. The car runs decent, but I want more.:snakeman:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top