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Thanks for all the responses. Do you guys have spare tires in your trunks? Do you think your cars would ride higher without one?

I've got monoleafs on my Dart. They work awesome at the track, but are a little stiff for a street car. I would have the same worry about the road race deals on a cruiser. How do the XHD springs ride? Abodyjoe: Is it just the looks of the 2" spring you don't like? Thanks for the help!

Hey All: What is a good leaf spring to get for street duty, stock weight car. Might like to lift the rear 1" or so for added tire clearance. Shock recommendations would be appreciated also. Thanks! Steve

I run Caltracs with mono leafs. I like them quite a lot. My car went a 1.54 60' with the stuff set up in the default "start" position and some Hoosier DOTs. I bought their adjustable shocks as well. Just make sure you've got the front end travel to take advantage of them. Calvert recommends...

A 28" tire and a 2.7x gear is going to be pretty lazy off the line. What motor?

These guys have it covered. Sounds like a good swap. For my .02 I really like these gaskets: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RAT-5101R No silicone required. No worried about messing it up while you fight the hoghead on the studs. No leaks. I have found them to actually be reusable as long...

Awesome thread. Thanks!

Hmm, I wonder if I'd have to buy a new cal-trac setup to do the relocation...

I found I had really good luck with a roll pin punch. Got it from Lowe's. No luck at all with a regular one. They are typically harder than hammered hell, so I wouldn't try drilling if you had any other options. Steve

I think Mancinis sells these also.

Curious = How do you correct it if its not straight? Never done that on a leaf spring car before.

Hey All: Long story short, is there something I'm supposed to remove from the stock center section when installing Moser 8.75 axles? I guess there's something in there that puts preload on the bearings that the Mosers don't need? Will the new axles actually fit in the housing with that...

No matter how you slice it, the fight is over and the 9" won. I love how the Mopar and Chevy side of the debate comes down to pinion diameter. Who ever broke a pinion shaft? LOL If it doesn't break, smaller and lighter is a good thing. I've got an 8.75 in my car, but I could have probably...

This pitman arm came with the box, but I don't think it's A-body.

Its used but awesome- $50.00 plus shipping.

At some point (maybe 72, maybe 73) Chrysler switched the manual steering box over to a "Large sector shaft". Previous to that is was a smaller shaft. They changed the center link and perhaps some other stuff at that time so that they could unify on front end parts between power and manual. My...

My Dart has less than 35K on it, and everything in the front end was pretty much entirely worn out. Tie rod ends, ball joints, you name it. I changed all that stuff and its sweet now. I just went with Moog replacement parts instead of fancy poly stuff. Something else that should be...

Ive got sort of a hodgepodge setup on my car, but here goes. Im running an A-body 8.75 with the BBP B-body brakes (roadrunner stuff). I've been told the brakes have some effect on wheel backspacing, but don't know if its true. With spring location and the body stock, I can fit a 26*10.50*15...

I don't know what the difference is, but my Dart definitely sits at least a half inch lower in the front with the 5.9 Magnum vs. the 318, and that's with AC and PS removed. Steve

Hey All: Getting this car aligned tomorrow. Don't have any specs, or know anything about aligning these cars at all. Any help appreciated. Steve

redness: If you can clear all the obstacles to doing something like that, yes it would help with rigidity. The Mopar subframes suck. That is all. Or wait, I mean they're AWESOME. I've got a new in box set I won't be using if you want them! Steve

Does your car sit level?

The gear ratio in these boxes is ridiculously high. Would it really be that hard to steer? Isn't it like 23:1 or something? Having just swapped from power to manual (but not driving yet), I think its a pretty positive swap. My car lost almost 40 lbs, and there's a lot more room in the engine...

Last time I saw a loss-of-control like that from driving on the street it was from a broken torsion bar. How are the T-bars on that car? It also is pretty stupid to run a big block blown(?) car with drum brakes. Who spends money on tube uppers but runs the stock brakes? What the heck is that...

What kind of shape are your motor mounts in? A lot of times they are worn out, causing the motor to lean one way or another.

Nothing to leak everywhere. Saves 38 lbs. Cuts parasitic drag.

I just used the mancini adapter on my 1971. Easy. Just hang on to the original roll pin as it fits the adapter-to-box-hole better than the one provided in the kit. Good luck Steve

Hey All; Got into this front disk swap. ASSumed my ball joints would probably be ok since the car drove fine and the thing only has 33,000 miles on it. WRONG. They're all completely shot. And not at all cheap either. Anyways, if you haven't checked yours lately, might be worth a look.

Well, I got the 73 B-Bpdy pitman arm. It looks like it might work if I install it upside down. Of course, it probably won't since the hole in the center link is certainly tapered, and doing it upside down would have the taper going the wrong way.

According to the pics over at Bigblockdart, I've got a C-body steering box. How I always manage to end up with the problem stuff is beyond me. That's weird, because at least according to O'reilly's, the 73 B Body Pitman arm is the same part# as a 74 power steering Dart Pitman arm...