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I had to adjust pinion angle on a Duster after spring change and torsion bar adjustment to get of vibration. Check other stuff first and make sure your transmission rubber mount is still good.

I made this rod adjuster from a Lowes stores turnbuckle. It works well for fine tuning but of course wouldn't be correct looking for someone wanting the factory look. I was able to dial in my 1-2nd and 2nd-3rd shifts alittle bit later for light throttle. More like 15mph instead of 10mph 1-2 and...

Homemade setup on mine!:D

Here's my modified setup. I removed the linkage spring so you could see the LH/RH Lowes turnbuckle I use to get the throttle shift pressure correct. I needed a rod for the car when I bought it and just modified one I was given from a Mopar.

I've got a Hughes 2600 stall torque convertor in my 360/904 combo built with similiar specs to your 340. I'm very happy with it.

I was missing the carb to linkage rod and made one from pieces of a non adjustable rod and using a Lowes turnabuckle. It 's easily adjustable and cost me $1.69.:-D

no bang just the click click around corners at slow speeds with mine. I'm used to it now and it lays good rubber from both tires. :-D

I think Type F or FA would be better than Mercon. Never heard of it being recommended for 727's or 904's.

You need to re-adjust the Lokar throttle pressure linkage cable. Under light throttle it should shift out of 1st around 15mph and 2nd at 25mph. More throttle equals higher shift points. At full throttle you should have very little to no slack in linkage or cable. It takes a few times to get it...

I have a Hughes 2600 stall in my 360/904/3.91 combo.

I was missing the carb linkage rod on my Duster when I bought the car. A guy on Moparts gace me a rod free and I made it an easy adjustable one with a turnbuckle assy from Lowes for $1.68 :burnout:

I got mine thru NAPA and the speedo pinion seal was much better quality & fit than what the transmission shop used to rebuild the tranny before I bought the car. Seal doesn't leak anymore so I'm a happy camper! These fit most 727's and 904's. Oil Seal #1-5043 O-ring #1-5108

I thought about a Lokar or Bouchillion setup at first but I'm on a self induced budget with this car. Getting the rod free, finding the turnbuckle at Lowes and doing the cutting & welding in our shop at work made it worth trying. You can see I had to flip the rod over due to the throttle...

My Duster was missing the kickdown lever rod from carb when I got the car. Luckily car hadn't been driven much by previous owner since fresh rebuild on tranny. Got a free rod from a later model SB car and purchased a turnbuckle setup from Lowes. Cut, welded and now have an easily adjustable...

My Duster has 3.91's and and Powertrax locker in the 8.75 rear. Other than a slight clicking when I turn a corner it works fine on the street. The previous owner was going to use it as a street/strip car and wanted a strong locker in the rear.

For the top rod which attaches to the carb on a 3 pc A-body setup. Need the width and length of slot as I'm going to fabricate my own adjustable rod. Yes I know I'm cheap. :-D Thanks guys.

Tom, If you're talking about the steel bracket with rubber insert I got mine at a Carquest but I'll bet just about any store has them. Search NAPA online or O'Reilly's on line or give them a call. I used a poly insert for awhile but went back to the rubber as the poly seemed almost too...

2.76 or 2.94 or 3.21 most likely. Pull the cover and count teeth to be sure. The early 8 1/4's have 27 spline axles and the later Dakota ones have 29 spline axles.

I'd stick with the 8.25 if you're looking at mainly street use and under 400hp. It can handle some track abuse too. I still have my original 8.25 suregrip in my Duster but it only has 95,*** miles on the car. It's a mildly built 340-4spd-4.10 setup probably with about 350-360hp. I did replace...