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I'm in california 94580, I'm afraid of what shipping might be though. Those things are heavy! Thank you anyways. The machine shop said not to worry about it that it's not necessary. None of the aftermarket manifolds have them either.

wouldnt want that exhaust crossover to get too hot!

im leaning twards the blocking off of the passage like outlaw sugested. will aluminum flashing be strong enough to handle the heat of the exhaust? I thought the shield was to prevent oil from burning on the hot exhaust passage? not to keep the manifold from heating up. you would think the...

my 318 2bbl intake manifold is missing the plate that protects the exhaust cross over. one of the mounting points for the rivet is broken too. i have another manifold from a earlier small block that has the shield but has dried crusty burnt oil under the edges bending it out on one corner...

the half moon seals for the corners of the oil pan were a pain in the ***... i ended up just tossing them and loading it with rtv. i got the cover on but im having trouble getting the balancer back on. any tips or tricks? it goes on about 3/4" then stops right about where the key starts...

ahh i gotya... thanks. didnt make sense for a second and didnt want to flub it up... i didnt think that seal on the front of the pan gets any silicone?

the crank shaft after the sprocket goes on has a sheet metal disk that goes between the sprocket and timing cover. is there anything used to hold in place? there was nothing when i took it apart.

the timing gasket set comes with a thick felt doughnut looking washer. about the size that would go around crank shaft end. where does that go? there was nothing like that on when i pulled it appart.

it kinda clunks back and forth... when you push/pull

the play is like front to back...

iron sprockets you mean?

im still fuzzy on how to degree the cam.... i thought lining up the timing marks on the two sprockets was all i had to worry about.

thanks! is it normal for a worn motor to have aprox 1/16" slop in the crank shaft?

ive got it broken down to the large nut in the center of the crank shaft.. is that a reverse thread bolt? and whats the best way to remove it, with an impact gun?

hmmm.. just picked up my timing CHAIN. i guess the guy didnt order right i thought i was getting the whole set for 27 bucks.... now i have a chain with no sprockets to use it on. ill prolly take it back and just get a regular chain. oh well it was worth a shot...

the one i ordered was a Cloyes but they had two different ones a $27 one and $66 one.... i have a feeling i got the fake one your talking about. lol

What does that mean?

Any issues I should watch for on this upgrade? I purchased a double row timing set for my 318. My motor is a 73 motor but has the early water pump for my 69 car.

wow.. thanks! my motor is a later motor with an early waterpump. the timing marks on the cover are on the drivers side but the balancer is somewhat hidden behind the water hose. when i pulled the dist out i was very careful to put the new one in with the rotor facing the same direction...

I love those wheels! what are the details on the wheel/tire combo?

I changed the distributor and ballast resistor on mine and got it to fire. i have some issues with the under hood wiring i can tell too. when i was cranking it to start it was coughing up thru the carb. could that be just my timing is off a bit from the dist change or could it still be that...

It has been converted over to electronic ignition with the 4 pole ballast. There is no timing marks on the timing cover on this car. Last year i went thru the fuel system all new fuel line, fuel pump, and had the tank cleaned and coated. i have a locking gas cap so i dont think anyone could...

wont start at all... nothing... cranks and cranks but doesnt fire. Its getting fuel i can see it squirt when i pump the gas. its getting spark, i pulled a plug and cranked it with plug on end of wire grounded to exhaust manifold and im getting spark. a couple times when i was cranking it it...

or you could just keep saving and buy a car that already has a performance engine in it. Would probably save money in the long run.

WOW, i didnt think i would be the first guy around here to try this... i ran the 500 cfh holley 2bbl 2300 series carb on my 72 challenger for a while but never really noticed much performance gain. I assumed it was due to the restrictions of the manifold. If i get it worked out ill let you...

Anyone run one on a stock 318 2bbl manifold? I was looking at the setup and the holes in the stock iron manifold could be opened up to match the adaptor and help the flow. Has anyone tried this or have advice on this setup? Thanks Rich