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I wish studying the pic and thinking, "If we need a odd shaped manifold too clear steering gear on the left side, you would need similar on the right side. I was wrong.

Engine is the majority of the weight and its not in the center of the engine bay. Chrysler started the required drive line offset at engine where other brands had the offset most evident at 2 different lengths of rear axle.

Hardware in the early column was opposite in design from later models. Screws with Phillips heads show from the top. Rectangular shape nuts beneath are captured in the casting and catch notches formed in the tube to draw parts together.

Adding coil over suspension to a chassis that wasn't designed for it will be an aftermarket/i.e. after your money task. What our a-body has beneath the inner fenders is barely enough to support a shock absorber. I've seen pics of some of what is available. They attempt to find rigidity at...

I don't strongly disagree with above post because anything is possible, but I have never seen a steering wheel nut loosen.

Springs under a 68 4 door Valiant may be 6 leaf too.

nope no measuring stick on that particular one.

With the master spline up, pin is positioned left to right. Drives out toward the door glass

Don't scrap it. It is the easiest pump of all to rebuild. Ample "how to" videos on Youtube. I would pay the postage for it @ 29642

I have the same Saginaw pump on my 67 model 273. Back when I needed a new HP hose, The guy at Carquest store said, "The hose I get for you wont look like OEM but will work. The OEM hose was a special to make a pump typically found on GM products make up to a Chrysler steering gear. The...

I was actually thinking "upper arms" if nothing more. Now to finger out what quantity I'll need. Thanks again.

So my next question is, were any other suspension parts were coated with this?

Yes, from what I have read anyway. I didn't know the stuff was still available.

Have my lower arms submersed in vinegar. Rust is almost gone. I think I have enough baking soda to neutralize the acidic residue. What have you used to get the OEM look and prevent future rust? TIA

Todays radial tires need different alignment specs (caster and camber) than the OEM Polyglas tires. Stock upper arm bushing will get close but only Moogs offset upper arm bushings will get it right for radials. I haven't seen a kit that includes offset upper arm bushings.

I sold that project car along with all the parts I had accumulated.

I recall seeing these mounted underneath some GM models with R&P steering like Grand Am. Hayden Power Steering Oil Cooler for 2001-2003 Pontiac Grand Am 2.4L 3.4L L4 wt | eBay My thought was "that is neat little cooler". It could be easily installed anywhere on any vehicle.

About the pitman shaft size... If you need a 1&5/16 socket to get the nut off, it's the large shaft.

If the bearing is good it wouldn't turn to outer race and wear the hub bore. The bearing is very hard steel. I all my days I've never seen a outer race go down in diameter. The cast iron wears. Back in the day, if the bore was just slightly worn, we would use a center punch to put a bunch of...

I had a vibration come out of the blue. I was under the hood, revving the engine, etc... I don't recall exactly how I discovered loose rivets and fan blade but so glad I did. I had seen fan blades go into a battery and a hood on other vehicles. A person could be severely injured.

The early bar was long, all the way around the K member. Long end link kits too. There had to be some response lost in all that. There is a lot more travel out at the end of lower arm also. Many factors to consider.

Have a good look at the fan.

The ball studs are the same size/taper.

Many owners do upgrade the a-body tie rods with larger diameter c-body parts. I don't know that this is necessary for the typical street driven a-body. Several years back, a member here put the billet aluminum sleeves for c-body on the a-body. Those sleeves include 2 jamb nuts. The combined...

Today we can buy dang near ANYTHING on the interweb. There were a lot of years when replacement boots alone were not available. If you ask a parts counter clerk, why not? The answer was "keeps the mechanics honest". Some of them might install new boot and charge for joint replacement.

Yes rear springs can be the problem. When one rear corner goes down, opposite front corner goes up. This is a rare condition since rear spring typically fatigue/sag at same rate. Our 1st 67 notch was down in the rear. The front was a little different but nowhere near 2 inches. The leaning tower...

Too much trouble to make something fancy that will never be seen. A few little pieces of flat bar across will accomplish the same thing. One could even fold a 1/4" over the edges for more weld area. Aftermarket couldn't sell those though.

When you put 73 up disc brakes on a pre 73 vehicle, a prepackaged "kit" gets complicated. This brake change has been done sooo many times that these vendors probably can put together a kit with all the correct parts you need. I don't know for sure. I only know that if you keep the pre 73 center...

Yeah, OEM was rubber and nobody offers that today :(

I've been wrong before. Unless they changed at some year model, A-body got a triangle shaped bushing under a welded closed strap. The ebody strap could work with the e-body bushing and 4 bolts?