I have a 1965 Barracuda that I'm replacing the wheel bearings on. I've never done this before but from what I've found is there should be a wheel bearing race pressed in then the bearing rides in the race and is captured in place by the seal. I removed my hubs and this what I found on both of them. Again I've never done this so am I missing something.
Inner wheel bearing
- Thread starter ptbill
- Start date
-
Do you have a bad bearing? Why are you replacing it?
First picture, press down on the bearing and now it is loaded against the race like installed on the car.
the race is presses into the hub, it won’t fall out like the bearing.
old bearings are usually good to go. Clean and repack, may be better quality that the china stufff available today.
the race is presses into the hub, it won’t fall out like the bearing.
old bearings are usually good to go. Clean and repack, may be better quality that the china stufff available today.
Pry off the seal and take the bearing out. Clean it with solvent or brake clean and inspect it and the race for wear and damage.
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
What you are describing is perfectly normal if the bearing parts are OK and if the race is not loose in the hub
The bearing cone is held stable when fitted onto the spindle, and the race is pressed into the hub. When the entire assembly is properly assembled and adjusted with the nut the taper of the cones holds them centered in the bearing cups
What to look for. The hub is machined for a "drive" press fit of the race. Clean it up, get the grease out, and see if there is any movement of the race. SOMEtimes the race wears a ? cavity ? in the hub and becomes loose
Examine the race for pitting, scratches, rust, odd wear, etc. Same with the bearing cone, examine the rollers by turning them, and looking as well as you can under them at the cone inner part.
Test the fit of the bearing cones on the spindle, and examine the spindle surfaces for wear and damage, including the seal lip surface. If that surface is worn badly, there is a product known as a "speedi sleeve" that is a very thin, precision sleeve, goes over the spindle to provide a "new" seal surface. I believe they are a trade name of C/R seals (Chicago Rawhide). They have been in business longer than any of us have been alive, and I'm 74
Then repack with a good grease and replace the seal. Be sure to put a little grease on the seal lip so it is not dry. No need to "pack" the entire hub cavity with a massive amount of grease
If you don't know how to adjust them, go to MyMopar and download a service manual there for free. You may have to get Dodge vs Plymouth manual depending on year
Last edited:
jos51700
Green Bearing thread connoisseur
If you flip that loose bearing over, that's the side you're seeing down in the hub.
There's a seal pressed in on top of the bearing that's keeping it from falling free. The bearing outer race (the plain 'ring' in the picture) is under the bearing. You'll see it in there when you take the bearing out.
99/100, clean and re-grease (ask for help on this) and you're back on the road with a new seal. That seal will just pry out. When you see the new seal, it'll click.
Wish I'd known, just did this on the Dakota last week, could've documented for you.
DO NOT just smear some grease in there and keep rolling. Clean all the old grease out and read up on packing the bearings.
If they DO truly need replacing, you'll need either a mig welder, or a press and bearing collars, to get that inner race out. If you lay a bead of mig weld on the race (Don't weld it to the hub....) it'll just rattle out when the weld cools. Otherwise, off to the press and/or machine shop.
There's a seal pressed in on top of the bearing that's keeping it from falling free. The bearing outer race (the plain 'ring' in the picture) is under the bearing. You'll see it in there when you take the bearing out.
99/100, clean and re-grease (ask for help on this) and you're back on the road with a new seal. That seal will just pry out. When you see the new seal, it'll click.
Wish I'd known, just did this on the Dakota last week, could've documented for you.
DO NOT just smear some grease in there and keep rolling. Clean all the old grease out and read up on packing the bearings.
If they DO truly need replacing, you'll need either a mig welder, or a press and bearing collars, to get that inner race out. If you lay a bead of mig weld on the race (Don't weld it to the hub....) it'll just rattle out when the weld cools. Otherwise, off to the press and/or machine shop.
Thanks for the info. After looking at the spindle I see a shoulder that the inside bearing would ride against. I see now what I was missing before. Thanks again.
I see now what I was missing before. Thanks for all the great info.
jos51700
Green Bearing thread connoisseur
I'm glad you're getting there. It's only hard the first time, or if you get a bearing that's seized on the spindle. Those kind of suck.
If you're not sure how to inspect the bearings, post some pics of what you find. I wouldn't go through replacing the bearing and driving the race out and all that unless it's bad. If it isn't broke, don't fix it. If the bearing is still good, simply re-packing it is all that's required.
Thanks. I plan on getting it back together soon now that I have the information
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
I've removed LOTS of those with nothing but a decent punch and hammer. Just be careful, and tap around and around to keep it "even." Some hubs have indentations at "straight across" to give you a better drive surface on the cup
In fact I've NEVER welded one
If the bearing is good it wouldn't turn to outer race and wear the hub bore. The bearing is very hard steel. I all my days I've never seen a outer race go down in diameter. The cast iron wears. Back in the day, if the bore was just slightly worn, we would use a center punch to put a bunch of scars in the bore. The punch marks raise some cast so the race will drive in and stay still. If the bore is worn too much that wont work. It will need repair or replace. Good luck with it.
Mine has the indentations
jos51700
Green Bearing thread connoisseur
Nowadays, if I get race that's just a wee bit loose in the bore, I put a drop of green loctite (aka Wick n' seal) on the joint of the assembled parts, wipe off the excess after a minute, and presto, no more problem. That crap is amazing.
I used to do that. Then I welded one. I'll never go back. Its a way of life. Zap Zap and it falls out.
I used to do that. Then I welded one. I'll never go back. Its a way of life. Zap Zap and it falls out.
-
