Tie rods differences swaps etc.

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Bronze Barracuda

Bronze Barracuda

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So I was just about to hit the purchase button when a thought occurred, which lead to more thoughts.

So a little background info, I am in the process of doing a front disc swap (1976 dart spindles/rotors/callipers/brackets/uca. To a 1968 barracuda originally with front drums.
I am replacing inner and outer tie rods as well.

What I have currently on my order sheet is upper ball joints, lower balljoints, the offset upper control arm bushings from moog for a 1976 dart.
Inner and outer tie rods for a 1968 barracuda.
This is where a few thoughts popped into my head as I noticed there was a tie rod change between 1969 and 1970.
So do I stay with the 1968 barracuda inner and outer tie rods?
Or do I get outer tie rods for a 1976 dart and inner tie rods for a 1968 barracuda?
Or do I get inner and outer tie rods plus new tie rod sleeves for a 1976 dart?
Also I had read in a Mopar Action Magazine (Dec. 2011) that they "upgraded to 11/16 tie rod ends from a 1974+ c body? Any thoughts on this?
 
I am not absolutely certain but I believe you need to stay "all one" that is if you have a lot of good parts from the 68, then buy "all 68" If not figure out if the late ones are larger size. If so use them. That is the reason for the C body parts.

Again, I don't believe you can mix inner, outer, and sleeve, but it's been awhile
 
Many owners do upgrade the a-body tie rods with larger diameter c-body parts. I don't know that this is necessary for the typical street driven a-body.
Several years back, a member here put the billet aluminum sleeves for c-body on the a-body. Those sleeves include 2 jamb nuts. The combined overall length was too much to get the toe setting on a-body.
 
Bronze Barracuda said:
So I was just about to hit the purchase button when a thought occurred, which lead to more thoughts.

So a little background info, I am in the process of doing a front disc swap (1976 dart spindles/rotors/callipers/brackets/uca. To a 1968 barracuda originally with front drums.
I am replacing inner and outer tie rods as well.

What I have currently on my order sheet is upper ball joints, lower balljoints, the offset upper control arm bushings from moog for a 1976 dart.
Inner and outer tie rods for a 1968 barracuda.
This is where a few thoughts popped into my head as I noticed there was a tie rod change between 1969 and 1970.
So do I stay with the 1968 barracuda inner and outer tie rods?
Or do I get outer tie rods for a 1976 dart and inner tie rods for a 1968 barracuda?
Or do I get inner and outer tie rods plus new tie rod sleeves for a 1976 dart?
Also I had read in a Mopar Action Magazine (Dec. 2011) that they "upgraded to 11/16 tie rod ends from a 1974+ c body? Any thoughts on this?
Click to expand...
It has been several years ago when I rebuilt the front end on my 68 Barracuda and I used the C body tie rods. The car also has the 73 and up front disks and steering knuckles.
The tapered ends of the tie rods are the same so the C body tie rod ends fit into the knuckles and center link. I used C body adjuster sleeves and they worked fine.
 
For the 1973-up disc brakes, you need the ball joints from the same years, so yes the 1976 parts are correct. K772, K781, and K783.

You can use the C-Body tie rod ends and sleeves, but this was the hot trick before the availability of solid adjusting sleeves. The main source of flex was in the sleeve, not the tie rod end, and the solid sleeves come close to eliminating flex. QA1 52325 sleeves are solid steel for the A-Body size tie rod ends. For all but serious road racing or autocross with big, sticky tires, this will do all you need. But, either should work, so your choice. Good luck!
1968 PLYMOUTH BARRACUDA QA1 52325 QA1 Heavy-Duty Tie Rod Sleeves | Summit Racing
 
S'cuder said:
For the 1973-up disc brakes, you need the ball joints from the same years, so yes the 1976 parts are correct. K772, K781, and K783.

You can use the C-Body tie rod ends and sleeves, but this was the hot trick before the availability of solid adjusting sleeves. The main source of flex was in the sleeve, not the tie rod end, and the solid sleeves come close to eliminating flex. QA1 52325 sleeves are solid steel for the A-Body size tie rod ends. For all but serious road racing or autocross with big, sticky tires, this will do all you need. But, either should work, so your choice. Good luck!
1968 PLYMOUTH BARRACUDA QA1 52325 QA1 Heavy-Duty Tie Rod Sleeves | Summit Racing
Click to expand...
Thanks, that's where my confusion on the 74 and up c body tie rods was. As there seems to be no information on the thickness of the tie rod ball studs of any cars a, b, c, bodies.
 
Bronze Barracuda said:
Thanks, that's where my confusion on the 74 and up c body tie rods was. As there seems to be no information on the thickness of the tie rod ball studs of any cars a, b, c, bodies.
Click to expand...
You're welcome.
Here's a better deal on the tie rod sleeves. PST is a FABO sponsor, and offers 10% off to members and free shipping. These were out of stock for awhile, but they look to be back for now.
Suspension - Steering - Solid Adjusting Sleeves - Steel (p-s-t.com)

I would also consider PST for your ball joints and tie rod ends. New Moog quality has taken a hit since they globalized a few years ago. I would use PST, Pro Forged, XRF or old stock Moog, TRW, McQuay-Norris, etc, from Ebay before using new Moog.

As you can see in these side by sides, the end of these old stock tie rods are virtually identical, with the bottom of the stud on the A & B body part (ES-319R, on the right) even a little beefier than the C-Body part. The C-Body ES-352R 11/16" shaft looks huge compared to the 9/16" though. They are probably overkill for most applications, but certainly heavy duty.

IMG_20220206_112312094.jpg


IMG_20220206_112320063.jpg


IMG_20220206_112324266.jpg
 
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