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If I was to go with rubber bushings I would only use Moog parts. On the other hand I have had a good experience with poly bushings. but it sounds like rubber would be good for you.

Manual steering isn't bad at all. also with manual steering if you get the car rolling at all it steers way easier. If you aren't moving at all its a bit harder. So if your trying to get in a parking spot or something just keep it rolling a bit and it will be way easier. The only thing I...

Its worth it to have a place to mount the top belts properly. I am thinking with the current way it is set up It could possibly flip forward in a hard crash. There is only one bolt on top and one on bottom each side correct? It looks like they are supposed to be installed like this...

Maybe a ford 8.8? you can get discs and good gears with an trak lok or w/e ford calls their lsd. Axles go for about 150-200 bucks. You will need to modify it a bit and get a driveshaft made. They are pretty darn strong too.

definitely higher in the back. Use the rocker panel in the picture as a visual reference. Compairing your car to some factory brochure pictures it looks like the front is what is low. In my visual opinion. But you could go either way really to level it. you could lower the rear and have a...

My, 73 is in the same exact state as your 72 at the moment. no engine in the bay. My k frame has different motor mounts, setup for the spool mounts. and my center link is different. my tie rods are orientated the same as the idler and pitman arm on the center link. not twisted 90 degrees like...

you need a different pit man arm. i forget what the part number is though.

I got a moog idler recently, it doesn't even have a boot, its just a felt washer like YY1 said. maybe you can just grab something like that if you can't get a help boot. I'm really wondering about the felt washer but, that is probably a topic for a new thread.

MOOG Part # K7086 http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/buy/products/221880-idler-arm-by-moog-part-k7086-chassis.html# Anyone use this one? does it have bearings or something? or is it just a rubber?

Maybe that strut rod is longer than the other side? You said you got them from mancini maybe they sent one different one. accidents happen. quick measurement will tell you if that's the problem. Other than that I guess check the bushing and bushing area for issues? maybe something is bent?

Don't waste your time installing that bushing, go get a good moog one. I used that bushing on my car and it was total crap. Also if it craps out on you and you need to change it, it is a real pain.

I installed mine just like that, after a few weeks they fell off. my 8 3/4 is a 3 inch tube so i went and bought two 3" muffler clamps and used the clamp as the base.

a longer rear shackle might be the best thing to try if your looking to do it cheap. to do it the right way, either go to a spring place and have some custom made or get some superstock springs. but keep in mind with the superstock springs one side will sit higher than the other. if you want it...

works well, just the rear bars mounting to the rear end housing sucks. You could weld up some perches or I actually used 3" exhaust clamps for mounting brackets. everything else works fine. I run addco bars on both my cars and would buy from them again in a heartbeat.

They both suck! Its just a lesser of two evils kind of thing. Power just has no feel at all. Manual takes a million turns lock to lock. fast ratio manuals are too hard to turn. There is other options though. For what its worth I am running the manual box. Happier than with power but...

I hope i don't sound like a jerk here but, if you could not get a u joint out did you get the pinion flange back in the ballpark of the correct inch pound preload? a lot of guys mark them and count the turns to do a quickie fix. I just think changing a U joint is easier than replacing that...

Those brackets are for a 73 and up K frame. Swaybar goes threw the K frame. Those long flat brackets bolt to the K frame. The shorter brackets are used as spacers to help center the bar in the hole of the K frame. then the round brackets with the rubber pieces inside bolt on top. The L tabs go...

looks like it was the helicoil. Just put a new flange on for now and save up for something bigger and better. maybe you can even swap it in over the winter. Your going to want to mark the threads and nut and count the turns to get the nut off when you change the flange. otherwise you could...

I used a small sector box in my 73 dart. Some very nice people on here told me to use a Moog K7075. This is with the 73 idler and drag link. Worked great for me and found one at a place a few towns over for 80 bucks. It can be had cheaper online but I wanted it ASAP.

You can swap the center shaft out. So If you find a green beat to hell manual column you could swap the shaft into your pristine black column (for example). I can't seem to find any articles on how to do it though. For what its worth I ended up going with an adapter.

yup thats the adapter. I think you can also swap shafts on your column too if you like your existing column but need the length.

Really? I did not go ape **** on my tie rod but It seemed like It did not want to go in any further. Maybe with it jacked up its binding? It fit fine be for I took it off to get the headers in. Maybe I just need to muscle it in? I have had a lot go wrong putting the headers in so I am trying to...

In my struggle with the headers I have managed to forget if the tie rods go in from the top or the bottom of the drag link! I know the pitman and idler go from the top. I tried to put my tie rod in from the top but it does not go down enough to get the coder pin in. I did not tighten the hell...

Check your strut rod bushings.

275/60/14s fit my dart on police rims, 7" wide with about 4 1/4 backspace. I hear the dusters have a tiny bit more room so they should fit. If anything you should only have to tweak the quarters slightly.

Theres a 16:1 box for sale on the local craigslist but, I was wondering if anyone who has used one could let me know how they liked it or didn't like it. I'm planning on running a small block with 245/60/15 tires up front.

I did not put sealant on mine, no leaks yet.

A body 8 3/4, 275/60/15s on stock replacement springs in the stock location.

Did you throw the studs in the freezer for a while? Not sure if you remember science class but, this makes the atoms in the metal freeze which makes it shrink slightly. Ive had good luck using this technique on wheel studs.

I Like the KYB gas adjusts but they are a bit stiff. Which i don't mind but doesn't sound like your cup of tea. On the other hand I feel like the Monroe shocks give less harsh ride but don't handle as well. Also it seems everyone is recommending fancy high dollar shocks for you. For what you...