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Looks like you should get a couple of these repair panels...

Raptor Liner

Your car looks like it is great shape. A project like that is very time consuming, that's why most collision shops don't want to tie up resources on such a long term project. Your best bet would be to find someone who does body work in their home garage, possibly just a side hobby ( like me, I...

Ditto....

Use Easy Off oven cleaner, won't hurt the factory paint.

If you are going to be working outside, only do 1 panel at a time, do not strip the whole car at once.

If you are planning on sanding the primer anyway, why don't you shoot the primer, sand it, and get it ready. Then bring it to a good shop to shoot it, then take it home for sanding and buffing. I have a shop near me with a state of the art booth and a great painter that will shoot a car for $1000.

I have a bunch, let me check on the size.

I bought some new ones for my Dart that I never used, shoot me a pic.

I used PPG on my Dart, but have heard a lot of good things about Transtar Clears.

I used these paint stripper disc's on my 4 1/2" grinder, they work great..

Don't use Home Depot tape when painting a car, use Automotive tapes.

Sounds like a good deal for "Driver" quality paint.

BASF is a quality product, no reason not to use it.

Seal up the body with 2-3 coats of a good epoxie DTM primer. Then scuff the area good where you will be doing your body work with 80 grit, then re-prime when finished. You don't have to rush to seal up the epoxie.

Nice Job.....

You will not get a gallon of paint and 2 gallons of clear for $800 (PPG) Try PPG paint and Transtar clear, nice stuff and 1/2 the price.

I like to use Epoxie first for the adhesion to bare steel, then while the epoxie is still in the recoat window (24hrs) spray the featherfill ( no sanding). I used a 1.8 tip and it sprayed great. Block with 150, then prime with 2K, then 320 dry, then 500 wet. guide coat between each step..

Don't cut, just buff.....

OK Rail, first, I doubt they used a waterbase paint, as that technology was not used very much 15 years ago. If you want to do it right, you can continue to sand it down the way you are, when finished spray 2 coats of Epoxie primer, (that is your adhesion coat) then while the epoxie is still...

There are several companies that sell "Guide Coat" including Eastwood, or Auto Body Toolmart. It dries quick and will not clog your sandpaper.

You did a nice job, but I think I will wait till it's finished to comment. ( Have to see it done.)

The paint is the one thing EVERYONE see's. 99% of all the work of a quality paint job is in the prep work, just about anyone can spray on paint. It has taken me 6 months and about 2K in materials to get my car ready to paint ( and I used to do it for a living ). Unless you have confidence in...

Momoparman, saw your ride in this months Goodguy's Gazette, car looked awsome, way to represent.

Typically the wool pads are used for agressive cutting, then you would switch to a foam pad for polishing and swirl removal.

Here is mine, unfinished...

Hobart, Lincoln, or Miller 140 is the way to go. They all run on 110, and will cost $600 or less. Miller has a nice new small Tig machine it's the Diversion 165 and sells for around $1200.

Pick up a 4 1/2" grinder (Ryobi at Home Depot $30) and get some of these stripping discs. ( You can also get them at HF) They do a great job of removing paint and not removing metal. DA after with 80 grit and your ready to prime...

Whatever you do, don't use the Duplicolor shopline. It is Acrylic Lacquer and will lift the enamel.

The pans Laysons sells are from Autobody specialties only twice the price. Ask me how I know...