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I have the files for the A-body main hoop and rear down bars. Ive sold a few to fellow members here...all who can speak of the bars fitment.

I can do them fairly easy if anyone is interested...I think I am out of them at the moment, but can put a set together for anyone interested.

Right around 17" I believe...from "shoulder to shoulder" on the rod itself.

Watch out for AJE stuff...a simple google search will show what I am talking about. Everyone who has used them in a Mustang seems to complain...some say they dont even bolt into the car...

The pics posted by AutoXCuda are from the Total Control Products(owned by Chris Alstons Chassisworks) website.

Please, please, please do not even try to compare any of the Mopar K-member manufacturers, to the parts shown in the pictures above. That is TCP, or Chris Alston's Chassisworks, and is by far the nicest stuff to exist, from any aftermarket company. Dont compare this setup to RMS or any other...

Actually the material around a weld will always be weaker than it was initially. High amount of heat and no input of welding rod makes it the weak link. HAZ, or heat affected zone, is the weak point. Heat is the enemy as it messes with the Molecular structure of the material. Carry on... :)

Absolutely...no doubt about it. Heat is heat, and metal moves alot more than people think even with a small amount of heat input. I TIG weld them, and even welding in small 1" increments with the heat control of a TIG welder, it still pulls the tube. Put a jig through it, and re-align the...

Round tube is stronger just for starters. The RMS unit has a TON of welding in it, and each weld joint puts heat in the material making for an even weaker tube, and then add to that the mounting points of the RMS unit are a square tube cut off, and using the one wall of the tube...A little weird...

Couldnt say whether it is or not, but I will say it is a million times better looking than the RMS. The square tubing RMS uses is simply ugly. Absolutely ridiculous. Nothing against Bill at all, but whens the last time you saw an automotive product made of square tubing other frame connectors...

Theres alot of un-needed weight there. The farther the brace goes out, the better it is. I would definitely extend it farther. You will need to have the housing ends cut off, and re-welded in the correct place. Welding on the back of the axle tubes causes the tubes to pull back, making the...

The threaded portion of the control arms, which the ball joints thread into, are different size. Therefore, an "early" ball joint, wont thread into a "later" control arm. To answer your question simply, no you cannot swap ball joints without swapping the arms.

Message me...

I agree...use the crossmember if you already have it. I make reinforcing plates that weld in place and help to spread the load in this area. Message me if interested.

Looks like a good start. Rectangle or round tube?? Remember to measure twice(or 10 times), and cut once. Hopefully you marked your axle centerline on the fender lip before tearing it all apart? Keep pictures coming...Id like to see it as it moves along. Keep up the good work.

F/M/J spindles???

The ball joint should be nearly vertical when bolted up. It looks like its the correct way, and is correcting the angle that the pivot mounts are built with, but almost like it is too much angle??? I think if that were put on the driver side, the ball joint stud would be looking at the front of...

As mentioned above, "racing" and "street" driving should be looked at as two totally different entities. You either build your car for one or the other. Want a street/strip car? Then you'll have to make sacrifices. Sounds like your Duster will be a racecar mainly. For that, the Cal Tracs work...

Thanks for the good word badart. Much appreciated. These do have 1/8" plate type gussets which tie the ball joint socket and both tubes together. These arms also contact the factory bump stops. I'll check to see if it overextends the balljoint too much or not but am pretty confident they do not...

Hey all, Both of these items have been in the works for a long time. Through multiple designs and geometry changes, I feel they are now the best available. Everything I do is TIG welded, making products both superior in strength as well as ecstatically appealing. B-Body arms will be available...

Wow thats crazy. Hopefully everyone survived safely. I have made some torsion bar crossmember gussets, to help the common problem of the sockets twisting in the crossmember itself...but Im pretty sure these would not have helped in your case. As mentioned, talk to waggs and get a factory piece...

Never seen it in person, but it looks like nice stuff.

Geez...this seems to be a tough forum for some people lately. On another note...I agree the 9" is a smart move. Ive heard the argument a million times, but will always side with the 9". Youve mentioned the positive points of the 9"...gear selection, drop out third member, etc. I have 3 Mark...

Believe me, I have sat back and laughed plenty of times about the fact that no matter what people do to better their car, or make good products, everyone has something negative to say about it. This forum is VERY bad for that in particular. On another note, I am in no way saying anything...

Bump steer is simply the differences in the arcs that the lower control arm creates when cycled, and the arc the steering linkage creates when the suspension is cycled. If these arcs are close to one another, in radius and vertical location, the car will have near zero bump steer. As jos...

You have a point about them possibly being bent over the years. I dont see the real need for them but to each their own.

Seriously? Lighter??? Weighing cars in ounces these days are we? I can go on and on about making something lightweight...nylon fasteners, titanium, carbon fiber, etc etc. I wouldnt consider a heim joint setup any lighter than a tie rod end...if it is, it is VERY minimal. Im sure there are plenty...

Just wondering why people are so into the heim joint steering? The factory steering angle are pretty darn good as concerned with bump steer. On top of that, the heim has a hotter life span for a street car. Not saying its a bad idea, just wondering why people are so into them. Thanks.

I was hoping to have pictures posted this week, but it looks like it is going to pour all week, so getting it all mocked up on the Valiant would be a pain. I have tubular control arms, and tubular/adjustable strut rods ready for sale.

Message me...I can get you setup.