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I believe the one on the right is the A-body one, and the one on the left is B and C body.

Just keep the main shaft gears matched to the countershaft gears.

To someone who needs one, yes. It's a strange market for those. I figured the lower gear set was worth something, but, I never was able to sell those transmissions. When I closed up shop 10 years ago, 3 of them went over the scales with the other scrap.

The backing plates need to match the shoe width and diameter.

Probably a bent or cracked tube. If you can't find a replacement, it might be RTV time. Everything needs to be REAL clean though. That's the tough part without draining the transmission. Jack up the passenger side as high as you can. Wipe down any oil residue and spray with carb cleaner to...

Maybe I'm looking at it wrong, but, the angle looks backwards to me. The rear end pinion shaft centerline should point under the driveshaft, not above it.

That doesn't sound like a "bunch" of play to me. Certainly not enough to cause a vibration. Check to see if the u-joints are in phase, measure the driveshaft runout, that the driveshaft is the correct length, and yoke installed position is correct, and your pinion angles.

If you have that much clearance between the slip yoke and bushing, it's going to leak pretty bad too. Maybe wrong or damaged bushing? If you have a micrometer, measure the diameter of the yoke to see if it's correct.

Because, after they got beat at the drag strip, the Chevy guys looked at those big heads and just assumed they got beat by a big block of some sort!

If it happens again, shift the transmission into neutral. The engine will rev but at least the rear wheels will turn. If it doesn't, you have more problems than just an overapplied front band.

It might have a weight, it might not. What is important is whether the weight is for making it a zero balanced converter or one to be used with a particular externally balanced motor. The zero balance weights should be very small/light and the weights for and externally balanced motor are...

x2....in neutral, E-brake on, and wheels chocked.

Yup, that's the easy part. Getting the new one back in is a little more involved but not much. Get a stack of washers that will fit over the largest diameter of the stud. Push the new stud through the axle shaft and put a few washers over the stud but leaving enough room to thread on the lug nut...

Not necessarily. I bought one car where someone had welded the U-joint caps to the pinion flange! I had to torch it off and replace the flange and seal. It's amazing what some people will do instead of repairing it properly.

Not if it does it in manual low and reverse. If it slips only in auto low and high, then yeah, it's probably a clutch pack. As mentioned, I would do a full pressure test to rule out any other possible causes. Did it happen all at once out on the road or just after installing the valve body or...

Make sure the car won't move....either up on stands or wheels chocked....and put it in neutral. Pull the straps and use the pry bar as mentioned. If it's the yoke that is binding in the transmission extension housing, you'll need a new yoke, bushing, and seal too.

If it's leaking where you have the arrow, I'd say there is a crack or porosity in the case. If it's just leaking back from the seal area, it could be between the seal and housing or seal and yoke. That yoke doesn't look all that great to me.....kinda groovy and not in a good way!

Yes and Yes

See, you should have asked for better cuss words from the beginning! It would have saved you some time :-)

X2 and if those check out fine, it's probably throttle linkage adjustment. Next order of business would be a full pressure test to determine the problem.

In many cases the motor mount bracket can be bolted to the rear of the block mount bosses or the front of them. The difference is about the inch you need.

Agreed, I don't like even putting the B-body ones in an A-body and their a lot closer in width. I like using a drum to drum measurement because it's easier to compare apples to apples that way. The track width includes wheels which can vary quite a bit depending on offset. I still can't...

If you don't feel like pulling the converter out, you can also tell by the button on the front end of the converter that goes into the crank. The '67 and older 273's used a smaller diameter one than the '68 and newer. If you're keeping your early 273 crank, make sure your transmission has the...

Horrid? Really? It's a pretty simple adjustment but it has to be don't right. A basic dial indicator is all you need. The Dana 60 uses the same design so you're not avoiding anything there. As for putting F'ing parts on my Mopar.....I won't go there.....

Is this a manual or automatic? I don't know anyone reproducing the linkage but you should be able to find some original parts. Do you have the shifter? Any of the linkage at all? Link(s) on the transmission?

The next questions will be case number and u-joint size....

TCI even has the year wrong so what does that tell you? The transmission spline count changed in '68.

If it were me, I'd put the money into an 8 3/4. It's a better rear end all the way around. The 8 1/4 is cheaper but that's it's only advantage except for being a few pounds lighter. Other than strength, another nice feature of an 8 3/4 is that you can keep several 3rd members on hand and swap...

That's a 3.07 allright but I've never seen one in an 8 3/4. I wouldn't use anything higher (lower number) than a 3.23 for a manual trans.....too hard on the clutch.

A retainer should be easy enough to get. They used to come in a kit that included the bearing, seal, and gasket. If you can't find one, I have new retainers and bearings. Maybe a seal too but I'd have to check. Just replacing the LH bearing and retainer should be cheaper than changing both sides...