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Does the engine run properly with a full tank? Say, full throttle in a low gear going up a steep hill? The only other thing I can think of is a weak fuel pump that is helped by a higher fuel level that acts a bit as a gravity feed to the pump.

Even Stabil doesn't last forever. I'd pull the tank and do as 66Dvert said, stuff a rag in the filler hole to keep dust and vermim out, and put it up in the rafters of the garage until you're ready to reinstall it. Put the drained gas in whatever you're driving.

Like grimreaper said, there is not accelerator pump in the secondary on your model. You can see fuel flow through the main nozzels if the secondary throttle plates are open far enough, long enough.

I don't think a 1406 has vacuum secondaries....it should be linkage type. Your secondary main jets won't have fuel flowing through them until the secondary throttle plates are open. I've never seen those jets get plugged but I guess it's possible. You'll know if you get out on the road and floor...

Yeah, don't pump the gas! When you shut it down hot, there is a certain amount of perculation that will happen which will make a hot startup a slight flooded condition. Sometimes if you just turn the key without stepping on the gas at all, it will fire up. If it is a severe case, hold the...

X2. Check the linkage that opens the secondarys if it's bent or binding, sometimes the throttle plates won't close all the way. You may want to pull the carb off so you can see if all the throttle plates close and there are no bent ones or extra holes drilled.

Maybe a vacuum leak? Dribble a few drops of gasoline down the intake while it's idling and see if it smooths out. If it does, check around every hose and gasket for any leaks.

Yeah, but we get Kalifornicated in other ways!

I can't resist entering this topic but I'll probably catch flack from both sides! :-) I too think it's ridiculous to make a '67 model pass an arbitrary emmission test when they were never designed to do so. That being said, it seems to me, that as an owner, you would want it to run more...

There are many companies out there that sell the reproduction tanks. Check E-bay for the best prices. I would just order one that is correct for the car. It should be the single vent version from '70-6. Many of those vendors have the senders, straps, and bolts too if you need them.

if you squirt the filler tube with penetrating oil where it goes into the grommet, you might be able to get the neck out without damaging the grommet. If you can't have the car down, I'd get a new grommet and sender seal anyway, just in case. Having a helper can make the job a whole lot easier...

Welcome to FABO! Start with the common areas for a leak. All the hoses from carb back to tank, the fuel pump, and carb. If they're in good shape, inspect around the tank. Any major leaks should be obvious with a stain coming from that area. If it's a minor leak, you may have to pull the tank and...

It'll depend on the what you have for engine. If you're just running a street car with a mild engine, the stock 5/16 line is just fine. If you have a megahorsepower monster under the hood, you might need to go bigger.....but you'll have to go bigger all the way to the carb or it won't do much good.

Not knowing how radical your engine is, it's hard to know what it will need in the way of fuel delivery. You may have to upgrade to 3/8 or 1/2" fuel line from tank to carb. You might just need a better pump or you might have a slight restriction somewhere. I'd start with a fuel pressure and...

You'll probably have to make it on an aftermarket setup. Modify a stock kickdown or get a cable system from Lokar.

Which linkage? The kickdown linkage? Photos?

It wasn't me doing that plumbing job but I see nothing particularly wrong with it. Maybe the loop was just his artistic side screaming to get out! :-)

Looks like you took my recommendation to, "keep it away from the distributor", to heart! I don't know if I would have gone to that extreme but time will tell if your metal line will get too hot over there or not. It looks like it may be far enough away from the exhaust to keep cool enough. I...

I chose a different route on mine. I don't like having fuel lines over the top of the distributor myself. I ran mine forward from the pump, then up the front of the engine to the front of the head, then over through the gap between the valve cover and thermostat housing. I mounted a metal filter...

X2. A spark problem is highly unlikely but possible. If you pull the coil wire off the cap and crank the engine, Do you get a good blue spark that will jump a 1/2" gap? If so, you can forget about a spark problem unless your wires have gobs of resistance in them. If the plugs were bad, you'd get...

Now that you have that figured out, what the heck is that nylon strap for??? That's not holding the tank in is it?

That carb number in my book lists it as being off a '79 model 318. Given the Lean Burn computers and smog requirements in those later years, I doubt that carb will ever work properly in your application. If you want to give it a try, post a photo of what your setup looks like and we'll see if we...

It's a 4150 Holley 650 double pumper in my book. It says the Holley kit is #3-489

I had one on a car I sold. It ran fine but since I never had a different intake on the same engine to compare it to, it probably doesn't mean much.

If you decide to fix the 1920, post a photo of the broken part(s). I have many used parts for those.

Carefull trying to pressurize a fuel tank. You can split a seam or crack the brass float doing that. On your engine noise.....take off the fan belt and fire the engine up to see if you still have the noise. If you do, it's not the water pump or alternator!

I have a 2bbl Carter BBD changeover if you choose to go that route. Thanks, Mark

X2. A hard hot start is usually percolation which causes a slightly flooded condition.

Unless it's broken or complete worn out, I'd clean it out and put a kit in it. If it's the car in your avatar, that was the last year for the clamp-on style air cleaner so, anything you find, will be the same year or older. You might luck out and find an NOS one but I wouldn't count on it. The...

The dowels are for alignment of the manifold and gasket. If you're carefull setting the manifold on, there should be no problem. Don't be surprised if you have a bad hesitation using that manifold on those heads. Other than that, it will physically bolt on.