Tech tip for fuel filter

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64X2

64X2

Mohel at your service.
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I had the unfortunate experience of an engine fire in the wife's Valiant. So I wanted to reduce the amount of rubber fuel line. Since I can't do anything about the rubber connection between the fuel pump and gas tank, I left that alone. I did after some research find a a fuel filter that allows solid metal lines from the fuel pump to the carb. I will let the pictures do the talking....

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I need a shorter line from the filter to the carb, so I will post pics of that when it is done. This a simple solution.....

List of parts..

5/16 fuel line
5/16 x 3/8 fittings (made for flared ends)
Fuel filter

Now some bending and viola....
 
I chose a different route on mine. I don't like having fuel lines over the top of the distributor myself. I ran mine forward from the pump, then up the front of the engine to the front of the head, then over through the gap between the valve cover and thermostat housing. I mounted a metal filter (but still rubber hosed) right there where it was over the top of the head, edge of valve cover, and the front intake runner. From there a steel line into the carb. If you just replace the filter and hoses every other tuneup, you won't have any problems.
 
I agree with the above posts, its unfortunate that you had an engine fire but it likely could have been prevented if you had of changed the rubber lines every other tune up. Its a small price to pay to have peace of mind
 
I once had a 2" long piece of Gates hose fail in less than a year.

Good stuff, what is the part no. for the filter you used? 33481?

That seems to be a Wix no. also

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67Dart273 said:
I once had a 2" long piece of Gates hose fail in less than a year.

Good stuff, what is the part no. for the filter you used? 33481?

That seems to be a Wix no. also

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exactly why rubber (neoprene) fuel line should be replaced frequently, and if your running any ethonal at all it requires different type of flexible line
 
The rubber lines that I had on the car where not even three month old and the ethanol that they run in our fuel still made them fail in short order. I have always replaced the rubber when the filter was changed. I have had a lot of problems with the ethanol eating rubber fuel lines. I recently just found the gates barricade hose that is multi fuel use type hose.
 
Finished out the filter install. I took a different route withe filter and line.

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I use the EFI rubber hose. It's more expensive but WAY more resilient. The stuff from Autozone can be ID'd by the blue liner inside the hose. I have not had to replace any yet, and it's been several years.
 
EFI fuel filters aren't made for low pressure applications, but good luck.
 
The stock slant-6 fuel filter placement on most models is unfortunate…right above/near the very hot exhaust manifold. This creates bìtchy hot-start problems and, yes, there is the risk of a fire if you use a low-quality fuel filter or poor-quality flex hose (which you did, if your flex hose turned to mush in a few months). I appreciate the craftsmanship that went into 64X2's rework, but EFI filters aren't meant for low-pressure systems and adding more heat-soaking metal to the system is not an improvement from the driveability standpoint. I fix the problem this way with excellent success.
 
64X2 said:
Finished out the filter install. I took a different route withe filter and line.

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Looks like you took my recommendation to, "keep it away from the distributor", to heart! I don't know if I would have gone to that extreme but time will tell if your metal line will get too hot over there or not. It looks like it may be far enough away from the exhaust to keep cool enough. I doesn't look like the filter will be an easy service item now though.
 
Smart idea since it should last forever. If anyone has priced rubber fuel injection hose lately, you will see the savings. Not sure why cudamark made the loop. Heat transfer thru the tubing is a concern. Covering the section over the exhaust with plastic would help. Look for PVC sheath from SPC Tech. Too late for cudamark since the fittings are on, but might still cover with split plastic loom or aluma wrap.

I don't see the concern with using a "high pressure EFI" fuel filter. It must filter pretty fine to protect fuel injectors, so should work for a carburetor. By having all metal lines after the filter, you won't have the concern of bits of degraded rubber fouling the carburetor.
 
It wasn't me doing that plumbing job but I see nothing particularly wrong with it. Maybe the loop was just his artistic side screaming to get out! :)
 
BillGrissom said:
If anyone has priced rubber fuel injection hose lately, you will see the savings.
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…except that fuel injection hose will last for years and years.

Not sure why cudamark made the loop.
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Same reason there's a loop-de-loop in the hardlines from the brake master cylinder down to the distribution block: to allow movement without work-hardening and resultant embrittlement and fracture.

I don't see the concern with using a "high pressure EFI" fuel filter. It must filter pretty fine to protect fuel injectors
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The filtration isn't the issue. Fuel injection systems run at between 3 and 10 times the pressure level on a slant-6; fuel filters made for EFI systems can show flow characteristics that are no problem with a high-pressure electric fuel pump but which can make problems with a low-pressure mechanical one.


By having all metal lines after the filter, you won't have the concern of bits of degraded rubber fouling the carburetor.
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He who's got bits of degraded rubber fouling the carburetor is doing a slack-aѕѕ job of keeping his car in shape.
 
Dan, I used that tech tip the first time I ran the filter. Had the filter mounted behind the alt as suggested in the tech. I also used fuel injection hose, gates brand, which was about 8 months old at the time it failed. The line ruptured and then spray gas on the back of the alternator which caused a catastrophic fire. So I felt I needed a different solution.

I am not that worried about the filter, I figured if I can blow through the filter easily it can't be that restrictive and it being a fuel injection filter it would have to be fairly free flowing as those systems rely on pressure more than a carb based system . I also feel based on the filter location that it is closer the the pump and down stream from the pump, and it would make it a tad easier for the pump to push. I also thought that liquid is hard to compress, and there will be a certain amount pressure exerted on that liquid that it will facilitate in the movement of the fuel to the carb.

I will also use a PVC based flexible sheath for the fuel line, one, for possible abrasions and two, insulate to a extent.


Thanks for all the comments and suggestion..... This place is always an adventure..... Thanks for the journey...

My wife uses this car as a daily, so I try to do thing in a industrial way...
 
Well long story short I had to ditch the filter set up I had. Live and learn situation the filter would not seal and leaked. I ran a hard line from the pump to the carb and put a filter in between pump and the line coming from the tank. Now have carb issues to deal with, I feel like I am never going to get this done....
 
Putting a filter on the suction side of a mechanical fuel pump is an excellent way to cause or aggravate vapor lock. The filter needs to be on the pressure side of a mechanical fuel pump. Also it needs to be rightside up -- the inlet needs to be lower than the outlet to allow the air dome to form inside the filter, or you'll get percolation problems.
 
Ok, this is frustrating to say the least. With the filter on the suction side, the filter is creating just enough resistance to cause the fuel bowl not to fill fast enough. I have set and re set the float level, and when I took the filter out of the system the car would actually idle and not die, with the filter attached at the suction side. So I have found a filter through speedway motors, http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Polished-Aluminum-Inline-Fuel-Filter,1670.html I am thinking of mounting it to the inlet at the carb, then the feed line into the filter. This the best my brain can conjurer....
 
64X2 said:
Ok, this is frustrating to say the least. With the filter on the suction side, the filter is creating just enough resistance to cause the fuel bowl not to fill fast enough. I have set and re set the float level, and when I took the filter out of the system the car would actually idle and not die, with the filter attached at the suction side. So I have found a filter through speedway motors, http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Polished-Aluminum-Inline-Fuel-Filter,1670.html I am thinking of mounting it to the inlet at the carb, then the feed line into the filter. This the best my brain can conjurer....
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all the problems your having is due to not listening and thinking a filter can go just anywhere, the reason the filters are close to the tank these days on newer cars is because there under pressure not vacuum.

If you want to solve the probem put the proper filter on the pressure side of the fuel pump and check neoprene lines every oil change or once weekly, the filter should be way below the alternator to prevent vapor lock
 
64X2 said:
Ok, this is frustrating
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It needn't be. You've been offered lots of good advice by plenty of people qualified to give it. It's just that you're not listening, as it seems. That's what's causing your frustration. Seriously, think about it: are the boards full of people having endless trouble with slant-6 fuel filters? No. Why is that?

With the filter on the suction side, the filter is creating just enough resistance to cause the fuel bowl not to fill fast enough.
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I think I recall reading an accurate prediction of exactly that problem somewhere in this very thread!

I am thinking of mounting it to the inlet at the carb
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Great way to break carburetor castings not designed for that amount of weight/pull hanging off them.

This really isn't anywhere near so complicated as you're makin' it, dude! Y'don't like my method because you did something differently than the rest of us and got a different result (we're good to go, but you had a fire). Okeh, then take a look at how the factory did it in the '80s when higher engine bay temperatures and changing fuel compositions made fuel heating more of an issue:

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