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Sounds like since unit. I,like the threaded vs pressed in wheel studs.

Yeah, mine seemed okay for a while but got progressively worse. Feels good now.

It can affect the pinion angle but Too much lowering block can cause the forward thrust of the rear axle to prevent the leafs (or torque arm) from wrapping up and absorbing engine torque. Consequently, forward bite is diminished. A symptom of this problem shows up on torque arm equipped cars as...

I can get some pics. Should have taken pics of the whole ordeal but I had my game face on and do not want to stop until I tackled the problem.

Anyone use the firm feel roller bearing kit that replaces the dreaded, sloppy rubber bushing idler? I know they have the kit for almost $200 smackers but would love to find a unit already made up for that kind of money. Curious if they will start making them ready to bolt in like they do the...

I mentioned before that my high arch ss springs required 1.5" lowering blocks to get the car to ride at an acceptable height since they were jacked wayyyy up there with no blocks installed. After a few years the springs have settled substantially and during this whole time with the 1.5" blocks I...

Those are some trick looking housings, and like the easy fill top cap. I have one on my wish list.

Does he know you have accentrics on the upper control arms to adjust camber? You can also get adjustable strut rods to get some more caster, but I'm with strokers camp...find another alignment guy. Is your idler arm sloppy?

I'm running. 360 and the 1.09 bars....handles well considering no sway bar. Also have sub frame connectors and a 6 point cage.

Stretch the forward portion of the rear wheel opening 1.5" for big tire clearance. If you're gonna mini tub you definitely want to do this while you are in there.

http://atlanta.craigslist.org/sat/pts/3024827054.html

Ouch!!!!.... talked to firm feel yesterday OTP. Seems the 67 A body idler kit cost roughly $200 and is NOT an idler arm with timken roller bearings already installed, but rather the bearing kit only which means you have to take your old idler arm to a machine shop and have it drilled out and...

Those springs will settle a bit especially the more you romp off the launch pad, mine were the same as yours at first. You can remove the rear spring clamps which will let the springs expand and settle in quicker wich will plant the springs better for hard launches but you may compromise sis by...

Dude! Cool, thanks.

Cool, glad to hear someone else that actually did this. I will give it a shot and see how it does.

FABO concerted effort?

Have you done this or know anyone that has? Just concerned about weird geometry.

Supposed to just turn on the k member side but unfortunately they are sloppy with the rubber bushings and flex like crazy. The roller bearing type are supposed to just turn thus eliminating slop on the k member side. Some K member brackets especially the 67's were not too beefy and could use...

Who was it that was working on a kick-a idler arm for a body mopars that eliminated the sloppy, rubbery ball joint and used a roller bearing set up? Was it firm feel or flaming river or someone? I know the crappy idler arms can make your steering sloppy.

Thanks Jim. Yeah I was thinking that as well, but the 1/2" difference is driving me nuts because the rake on the driver side is nice but the pass side is tucking into the wheel well a bit and its killing me. LOl. I wonder if I machined a 1/2" off the right lowering block if that would screw up...

Anyone?

Correct me if I'm wrong, but is it normal for the right rear spring to sag after a while once the springs settle and you put some torque to the pavement with hard launches, some burnouts and driving it like you should? What is the fix? Add a leaf, re arch?

Starting to get some sag out of the right rear spring. It's minitubbed and my .003 SS springs moved inward 3"' has fat tires, 12.5 on 15x10 wheel with 7.5 inch backspace, no sway bar,has 1.5" lowering blocks and 2 degree pinion shims. I am running heavy duty 1.09 torsion bars and the car has...

1/4 turn sounds pretty scary. I have a quick ratio internal kit brand new in the bag that I never used since I bought a new entire unit. I can dig it up and get part #'s if you like. Pm me if interested.

I like my fast ratio in my 67 but I have headers. I like the quick response with my manual steering and it's a blast to drive going through the mountain passes.

Not sure if you can do that wide. Get a Percy's wheel rite tool for perfect measurement.

As a business owner I see two things wrong with all of this. 1. If it were my bushings, I would have just asked for new ones and paid the money because I know I would get laughed at about the warranty question. 2. I would never throw out a record of a sale transaction.......cover your *** at...

My SS springs ride like a 3/4 ton pick up truck, no movement. I can sit on the rear of the car with the trunk open and bounce 225 lbs up and down and they barely move.

There is a mopar parts interchange book. Then there's the mopar chassis manual, but for some reason probably liability they do not go into fuel systems. Amazon.com: Chrysler Muscle Parts Interchange Manual, 1968-1974 (Motorbooks Workshop) (3700160304204): Paul Herd: Books...

Yep, weld a washer just big enough to fit in the LCD bushing shell inner diameter. Tack weld it around the perimeter but do not let the welds hit the frame work of the LCD. Put it in a large vice or shop press With a bolt and nut to press it out.