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Thanks for the reply! Sounds more like wheel adaptors. Too thick for me. Thanks again!

Can someone explain how a wheel spacer works with 2" wheel studs but not with 3" wheel studs. Just curious,thanks.

If you cant find that part of the harness that plugs into the safety switch and you have an aftermarket shifter you can always use the safety switches built into the shifter.

Konishiwa! VERY GOOOD! RRR!

Thats good! I've actually thought about doing that as I have about 30 gallons thats milky with water. Sat to long. Distill the alky out of the water. You know that stuff isnt disposed of easily. Been told to burn it. That would take a while.

I'll do that with the oil out of my blown 470" hemi. on alcohol. See,if for some reason I cant let it warm up completely,the oil gets polluted with alky. Put the oil in a big pot and over a outdoor fire pit. Monitor the temp and boil the alky out. At14 quarts an oil change it can get costly.

Restall a convertor by bending the outermost ring of blades. Straighten them out incresses stall,more bend lowers it. Only the end of the blade is bent. Where it isnt welded. And if its welded all the way,well it cant be restalled easily.

I reuse fluids. Got containers marked in quarts just for that. Dont allow the bottom of the pan to drain however. Thats got the muck.

And when the zip ties break (and they will break) back to square one. 3 options I see. 1. Wrap the exhaust and sheath the cable. 2. Reroute the cable. 3. Use metal to hold the cable. A piece from a spark plug wire loom perhaps, riveted to some sheet metal. Or.4. a combination of these...

Steel pans. I made a little deal out of a nut and bolt and some thick washers to tighten up over the bolt hole and not just flatten it but push it out the other way. Works well. Hammer was to noisy anyways.

Clutchflite transmissions often have the stock vent plugged and a new vent drilled right over the rear drum.....

Try continetal converters. They are in L.A. I always prefer to buy locally.

Dana 60 is the best rear end there is for no worries use. The only upgrade you need is long wheel studs.

I never messed with your model shifter. I do have a 64 Plymouth with one of those classic small chrome box B&M shifters. And I was melting cables. Looking closer at the shifter I saw that it was already designed for a rear exit cable. Simple piece to hold the cable in place and a hole in the...

Check to see if a flexplate bolt is backing out. Check all four.

Hey adamp! Whats the story with your a-body ride. Looks cool!

There are 3 series and 4 series sure grips. 3 series gearsets wont work on 4 series carriers.

What brakes? The axle retainers will also mount your brakes.If drums go get backing plates out of a boneyard. If disc see if you can get them with the calipers. Companies that sell aftermarket brakes can set you up.

Do you have the short extension housing? I have shorty TFs. They are clutchflights. Finding a place that has parts can be a problem. I believe a standard output shaft can be cut down and resplined to fit your needs. Any decent machine shop could do this. It may need heat treatment after...

Bolts backing out. Thats a distinct hitting noise. Squeal? Maybe the starter is staying engaged.

No. I think that trak-loc is going away. And brake torquing it sure isn't helping. Get the line lock.^^^^^^

How did you know?lol yeah, griner rmvb. If it was a one piece casting wouldn't the area where the lug was be rough completely? I can see machine marks or lines from the mold on the pad where the lug was.

Just added 2 more pics than have much better clarity when enlarged.

Cant seem to post photos here??? Just click "view photos by hangn0ut".

I put together a dana back around 82-83 for my dart. Narrowed,Cooks axles,green bearings,new sure grip. Always have 13-14" wide slicks and a big block in the car. Oh yeah,4.88 richmond street gears. Have never had any problem with it. None. Zero. It will need new gears soon though. Cost me about...

I just read the moparts tech article. Interesting. The first section "setting pinion angle" appears to me to be for everyday driver type cars. It makes sense for production cars,not high performance modified cars. The second section is taken word for word and picture for picture from the mopar...

I've found that going thru a t-flite takes a bit of a touch or feel. Installing a clutch piston with new seals for example. Or getting the clutch packs on to the splines. Just saying

Well I couldn't post pics to this thread. I did get pics posted to my photo gallery. ????? 3 pics. I will post more if you like. Okay pics,using my cell phone.

Well I couldn't post pics to this thread. I did get pics posted to my photo gallery. ????? 3 pics. I will post more if you like. Okay pics,using my cell phone.

Under hard acceleration the u joints and attachments (d/s&pinion) are forced into a straight line,dependent on power. This is why more pinion angle will make a car hook better. But it will mph slower as it takes hp to straighten these angles.