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Thanks, good catch, you are right those do not need to be removed.

I've always had to change the pitman arm when doing that. Maybe some fit both so wait for others to comment. You can use that adapter but you can also punch out those plastic inserts in the steering column as they're only used for assembly. You can then pull the column down a couple inches...

Perfect! Thank you!

That looks a lot better and more detailed than the diagrams in the chassis service manual. Do you have a higher definition pic/scan of that so I can print it?

71 Dart, bench seat automatic steering column

My steering column has a little bit of play back and forth. A friend of mine who helped me work on it last year said it's probably missing a clip. I found a clip and he's sure that's what's missing. I looked through the service manual and I can't find a pic of this clip anywhere. Does anyone...

I can't answer to the home alignment kit, but you did mention wasting $100 at shops. Piece of advice when dealing with alignment shops. Try to find a more independent place, not some tire shop filled with 18 year olds that only know how to deal with computer specs (as someone else mentioned on...

IMO basic (and necessary) suspension fixes: New tubular UCAs for the improved caster geometry, use whatever ball joints and bushings they come with. Messing with stock ones and offset bushings can be a pain and still not yield sufficient caster. Reinforce your LCAs and use delrin bushings, or...

That is 100% incorrect Delrin bushings do look like the best solution tho.

I can't believe QA1 puts rubber bushings in those. That is just dumb. I thought they'd at least have an option for poly bushings. BTW whats the verdict on poly vs delrin LCA bushings?

This is why the next time I rebuild my front end, which is hopefully a long ways away, I will be getting those nice QA1 lower control arms!

This is why whenever people on here say stuff like "hey I need to replace a tie rod end, should I just replace everything?" my thought is NO All of our stock front-end components are made-in-China garbage, and yes that includes Moog. It's a sad situation. IMHO if you're staying with stock...

That's wild that a poly bushing with metal sleeve failed like that, and that badly What brand was it? Where did you purchase them?

Is that the kind of strut rod bushing with the metal sleeve between them? Or not? The metal bushing makes a difference on how stiff they are If you want stiffer bushings just get poly ones. They're cheap enough. Search for Energy Suspension 57109G and check those out, they're poly with a metal...

Wasn't the change made in '72 not '73 or am I mistaken?

Can't you just remove the outer shell from your LCA? There's some easy ways to do that.

Anything with a ball joint (upper ball joints, lower ball joints, tie rod ends, pitman arm, idler arm) = made in China dogshit regardless of what brand you buy. For bushings you can at least get decent Poly ones Do you need to rebuild the whole thing? If I were you I'd go piece by piece and...

Are you talking about an entire front end rebuild? Or just bushing replacement?

looks like 73+ (or is it 72+?) to me

Are they stock UCAs or tubular ones? If stock UCAs, did you use offset bushings?

get tubular UCAs for more positive caster with correct wheel placement in the wheel well. You won't be disappointed.

that just looks like a bad idea waiting to happen

First off, wait until you get everything setup the way you want. When ready yes give the alignment shop specs. If you don't you will most likely regret it. Stock specs for our cars are NEGATIVE caster. You want positive caster, at least a couple degrees. If you change to aftermarket UCAs you...

thanks guys, ordered!

What brand of front wheel bearings are we going with these days? Are all Made in China?? Also I forgot what year/model/make of vehicle do I look up to find the correct inner bearings, outer bearings, and seals? My 71 dart has the 11.75" disc brake upgrade. Should I use something like a 1979...

See this thread: DANGEROUS PRODUCT = Moog Ball Joints There are several threads with MOOG ball joints coming apart. As that thread says I'd go with XRF and give them a shot. On 1 of the pages there's a link on where to order them from.

MOOG outsourced years ago. It's a sad situation.

Fix/Box/Reinforce the lowers. You will want to get tubular uppers. They allow for more caster adjustment at a better position. Stock UCAs won't allow for much positive caster at all, even with offset bushings, and even then your wheel/tire position in the fender will be sitting far back.

Nope, stay with the 6 K frame. A v8 k frame isn't any stronger or anything like that. However, if you had one laying around, I'd reinforce it with some metal/weld and put that in, if you had the engine out...

Moog = federal mogul = made in China. They moved their Moog mfg there years ago. See this thread for more info: DANGEROUS PRODUCT = Moog Ball Joints If you're set on sticking with stock UCAs get the Moog offset bushings, that's your best bet to get more positive caster. The better idea if you...