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I sure that's his general thinking but he mentioned to yr the last time we talked about my la engine with trickflows he would like to see a slower lobe and 1.6. The guy is definitely a thinker and custom picks to the entire combo.

No, just has no relevance to this thread lol.

Nowhere did I say what the op needs as I have no clue, as a matter of fact I said to make sure he discusses that with his cam guy (we agree on that but I think he needs to stick with Jim), you are the one telling him what he doesn't need. I simply said 256 @.050 is not a very big cam for a...

I will add there is no true definition of "streetable" just ask the real street outlaw guys. It really boils down to what a person feels comfortable with on the street. If you are going to build an engine a certain way then the drivetrain needs to follow it regardless or it will drive like crap...

I beg to differ, it's all about the complete build. We had a 340 (yes a stock stroke 340) on the street with a 267 @.050 cam, 11.5 compression, ported iron x heads and a tunnel ram with 750s, idled at 1000-1100 and was very streetable. He also had the appropriate 4.56 gears to make it drive the...

Its not just one component, its the whole package and once that's right you got to know how to tune, as my favorite actor said in one of his movies, "a man's got to know his limitations"

I understand but considering the duration at .050 I'm thinking that's with 1.6 rockers, with a solid roller and the right valve train that should be fine if that's really what the op wants.

256 @.050 (if that's correct) is not that big of a cam in a stroked small block, sure it will make some noise at idle but it will be plenty streetable. Tell Jim what you want (and be sure you know what you want) and you will get the right cam.

I'll just leave this here 904 race tranny Recipe

Yr, me and our buddy's are very happy with ptc converters, especially for applications like yours that could use a higher stall speed on the street. Our buddy has a dart, 400hp 340, 3.23s and I believe a 3,800 stall ptc and drives around town like stock.

My advice is find a low 1rst gear four speed (3.09) if you can,they made some in the early 70s with std. output shafts (thats what I have-its a 1974) or you can covert an early trunion style over.When you look at the start ratio (1rst gear x rear ratio) my 3.23s are like 3.91s at take off but...

Here is a good calculator for convertor slip but you need quarter mile times. http://www.tciauto.com/Content/StaticContent.aspx?ID=418&Title=calculators&AspxAutoDetectCookieSupport=1#4

Since you are close go with these guys,custom converter for off the shelf prices and they work very well. http://www.manta.com/c/mmglfm8/superior-torque-converter

Really you want a minimum a 10.1 start ratio for drag racing,to figure out your start ratio you divide the first gear ratio by the rear ratio.My car has a 3.09 first gear trans and 3.23s and I have a 9.98 ratio,basicly my car will launch the same as if I had a std gear auto and 4.10s (10.04).

Four speeds are forgiving,my buddy runs around in a 68 fb barracuda with a true 10.5 to 1 340 that has the mopar solid 296/.557 cam,m1 intake,holley 650 dp and it runs fine on the street.

3.55s will be fine unless your looking to race the car and get every tenth out of it,and with a good convertor you can have around a 3k flash stall and it will still be tight driving around town.The start ratio with 3.55s will be 8.7 which isnt terrible,with 3.91s it would be 9.6,about 10.1 is...

I wouldnt worry about the convertor unless your really trying to ring every tenth out of it,with that combo you dont need need anymore than stock.Has the trans been rebuilt or has anything been changed such as shiftkit-kick down out of adjustment ect.,if its shifting different it would be one of...

oops

AMC had them in certain cars for a short time.

For some reason most charts are incorrect,they dont show the fact that 65-67 b-body rears are narrower than 68-70 and 71-up.Im putting a 66 b-body rear in my duster,its an inch wider at the perches and will bolt in if you dont want to relocate the perches,heres a good thread to...

I would not use it personally,I used it in a couple of trans in the past and when servicing them i noticed excessive debris.I talked to a high end trans shop and they said it doesnt have the lubricating properties it should so it produces harsher shifts making it seem as if the trans is shifting...

I looked into it years ago locally here by dutchmans but they avised against it.Also besides the strength issue is cost,with new axles being pretty affordable its was about $175 more to just go new,I could see if you could do it yourself for the really low buck deal but I didnt want to take the...

Another vote for transgo,great kits.

They get my vote also!.

A clutch type is my prefference,for ease of rebuilding.

oops

BTW,I had the convertor your using behind a 402 and a 350 in a chevy nova,it acted stock at idle/cruise and flashed around 2k in the 350 and 2200 in the 402 with 373 rear gears.I had a friend who used the same convertor and it was really loose up stairs and never acted right,I guess it just...

Ive used a few including tcis and they never stalled where they were advertised,for me they were always too tight and stalled a few hundred lower than advertised.After a few phone calls I found out that they were all remanufactured convertors and the stalls were based on a mild chev 350 in a...

Sure,they build and sell reman convertors for a living and do these for the high performance guys,Im sure they would fix you up,I will get the info if you want.

Ive ran a hughes,b&m,tci and they all underperformed from what they were advertised and the tci out right failed so I now have a local shop build my convertors and the results are great.With off the shelf convertors Its really a crap shoot and depends alot on your power output and drivetrain...