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IMHO. check for space in front of the rad. a good kit should have high pressure hose. and be careful of the hose rubbing sheet metal. i would take some old rad hose split it and cover the cooler hose for extra protection. . and if you can use two clamps on the hose. then double...

get a hold of these cats. http://www.areds.com/ i have known them since the late 60s. 90% of ALL trans shops get there parts from them. they can answer any Q

heres a long shot. if you know someone that has a 3 D printer they could reproduces them, may be.

i had a 1965 chrysler 300 L. 727. tthat was cable going into the trans. and changed to lever shifter at to the console. these parts might work for you.

dont for get rev causes the line pressure to as high as 300 psi. needing lots of volume. in cold weather with a clogged filter sometimes rev will be slow coming in or not at all.

if you look in the different factory service manuals. you will find things like a mild 383 trans might have different pressure settings and valves in the valve body, and servo springs, than HP 383. so just cause a mild 383 trans will bolt to HP 440 engine doesnt mean you should.

like my friends said check the bands, and U-Joints. all so to get by till; its fixed try pulling the lever to low first then rev. going straight to rev throws about 300 psi to the servo. all at once. by going to low you load the servo with about 100 or so first the an other 100 or so.

i have been driving since 1965. ONLY chrysler car / trucks. from slant 6 to 500 inch max wedges. for me in street driving ( NOT STREET RACING) i have found no advantage going to the full RPM. i find shifting 1000 RPM short of full RPM does just fine. just my idea.

put a chain from the left side of the engine to frame. i put a turnbuckle so i could a adjust the pull down. i had 1982 250 HD. 360 engine. the front left bolt is a 7/16. i got one longer chased the threads longer, so the head of the bolt faced the front with two nuts at the ear. got a...

rev gear has to have 200 psi or more to get rev to come in. that needs a lot more fluid than a froward gear. and if the filter is clogged it takes a lot longer. it may help to pull the lever to low first and load the circuits to a lower psi first. that works as well when it bangs into rev.

well now you got me to thinking. i do know that the factory manuals does not that kind of info. i dont have car near to check it out.

iam sure most chrysler cooler lines are 3/8 dia. steel brake tubing. no NOT use copper. if you have to use hose. it must high pressure hose. in a 1967 727 the cooler pressure can be as high as 230-260 psi. in rev. all other gears are much lower than that. of course the rev band...

these guys will have your parts and can answer any Qs you have. http://www.areds.com/ have known them since late 60s. 90% of all trans shops get them from A & Reds.

dont forget if you go from a 7 1/4 to a 8 1/4. the driveshaft will need to be shorter. when i did mine the salvage yard had the one that fit.

be glad its NOT a 7 1/4. i had two i bought new brake the spider gears. 80 K / 120 K

i have a 2001 dakota V6 3.9. auto trans came with 3.55 gears. in town i was getting 8-9 MPG. OK i drive hard get over it. i was tired of low power so i put 4.1 gear and trak-lok. MPG went to 11-12 MPG. how? the O.D. trans will now go into O.D. at 30 MPH. at 1200 RPM. it...

if you have the a 7 1/4 rear end. do NOT make the 1-2 shift like a ton of brick hitting the frame. the spider gears are very week. all so these guys will know ANY Q you have. have known them from the late 60s. http://www.areds.com/ and good place to get parts. 90% of the shops...

dont pull it out. the factory book shows the lugs should be about 1/2 inch back from the face of the trans .

i think the older ones have to have the drive lugs about 1/2 inch back from the face of the case.

in pic #3 the tabs with arrows are mounting points for a repair stand to hold the trans. the other point is front edge of the trans at the top. holding the trans upside down. as shown in all of my factory service manuals.

any time you go from a 2 bbl to a 4 bbl. ALL of the parts going to and from the carb are diff. the ONLY way to get it right is to use the Chrysler stock parts. the 4bbl pin that is pulled by the throttle is more forward and more to the drivers side. but if you mind the throttle sticking...

when going from park to rev and it bangs hard try this hint. first pull the lever all the way to LOW then to rev. mostly this is 1. idle set to high. 2. converter stall to low for the cam. 3. the rev / low band is set to loose. or damaged. number 3. is the most common thing. if need...

what converter do the SS / AH guys use?

i have a 01 dak V6 3.9 auto trans. put a motive gear gear 4.1 C8.25-4:10 with a dana / spicer locker 84852. ( but i think it has clutches ). with 75W90 synthetic gear lube VV975. put in 7-28-11 no troubles. just some info for you.

IMHO. the cam and carb set up tells you what stall converter. i have seen a low stall convter on a HP engine for street driving. but at the track will not be the best. as i say a lot you cant go wrong doing like chrysler did it. they set the standard.

the B M flex plate will hit the stock splash shield. at least the one they sent me back in 90 somethig. the fix was to cut off the stock shield. keeping the part under the starter. and making a flat replacement out of Aluminum. i DID have a VERY LONG talk with them.

the 7 1/4 axle is a great axle, if you like repairing axles.

here is an EXTERANL filter, i found. have one on my 01 dak. my idea is when you put a new filter in side this one will help from having to do the inside one as often.* the old auto zone 2210 magenfine filter is no longer available at auto zone. BUT i did find the same thing as JX-160 brand--...

isnt why we had pushbottons at one time?

OK OK Clint. the next time you come by my house making that kind of noise again. you BETTER stop and give me a ride. its way to long since i have had a good ride. LOL LOL