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That makes sense. I plan on doing offset bushings and such and possibly dialing the car in for road course and autocross so adjustables are the ticket. Probably not for a while though.

I would go with KYB as they tend to last longer than monro or gabriel shocks. I've heard of people replacing them as often as every 3,000 miles with the cheaper brands.

I have a stock set of V8 torsion bars off of my car that still have almost perfect factory paint on them. They aren't over 1", but if you are interested in them pm me and I can pull part numbers and measure them. I would second adding a sway bar.

Try and use 50/50 atf and acetone mixture. Works twice as well as pb blaster and liquid wrench.

Good write up! I've been looking for similar information. I might as well bite the bullet on a pair for my 64 since I'm going poly bushings.

realistically I'd go with either the KYB or the Bilsteins. The others will probably only last 3k miles from what I've read on here. If you have the budget might as well get the top dog shocks and not have to worry about it. That's what I plan on doing around tax season.

You won't find the Bilstein's on their site. RCD builds their own from generic Bilstein tubes. PST carries them, and they also sell them on ebay too.

The imperial shocks are the right length for the rear but the upper bushing is incorrect.

That's the thing I don't know, my car didn't have a sway bar from the factory. I've seen ones on ebay that some say mount up without tabs?

What about with an Early A body sway bar? Should the calipers be on the front or the back? I'm working with a 64.

Bilsteins?

From my understanding they are all made in mexico now. The older ones weren't, but with everything (including assembly plants for Chrysler) they were outsourced to America's heartland, Mexico.

I have a set of de-arched springs on my barracuda I'm planning on taking off. They are just stockers that sit that way now. see my build thread for a pic of how it sits.

I'd go with a Hemi Danny setup if you have to ditch the torsion bars. His prices vs what you get are the best out there. Plus I have yet to hear any negative feedback and he directly supports his products.

I'd add sub frame connectors to the list too. Depending on the engine, possible torque boxes too.

I appreciate the help for sure. I'm still working out and doing the research on this style suspensions. Right now I don't know what size they are, I'll have to take a caliper to them when I replace the shocks later. No Bilsteins yet, just a cheap pair I had laying around. The PST bars are...

I am well aware about the super stock springs. At the time that I purchased them I had read they were good to go with. They will be up for sale in the near future. I'm still curious to see how the car will look with them on. I'm not building a pure handling car, or a pure drag car. I want...

If you think a 67 is ignored you should try finding stuff for the 64. I'm doing budget math in my head trying to figure out what I need to do to get bilsteins and the 1.030" Torsion bars to go with my super stock leaf springs. Might as well do polyspherical bushings and redo every bushing...

My handling car build will include these parts: PST 1.030" Torsion Bars 1-1/8" front sway bar Polygraphite bushings kit 75 Dart BBP Brakes 17" Mustang Wheels (Haven't worked out the tire sizes yet) Sub Frame Connectors Torque Boxes Front Triangulation Bars under the hood Super Stock Rear Leaf...

You need to keep pressure on the knuckle to ball joint taper lock so that the shaft doesn't spin. I ran into this reinstalling my steering to the K member. Supported it with a hydraulic floor jack so there was just enough pressure.