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You won't get the required finish by turning down on a lathe; you need a grinding attachment to a lathe to achieve the right finish. Your best bet is to get another one if it is a bother. Next would be to remove the rust in the pits and finely polish the edges to get rid of any burrs and try...

Perhaps a better way to say it is that finer clutch control is needed with a lower drivetrain rotational mass. The heavier mass is more forgiving of letting out the clutch a hair too fast. I would assume drag racers would like a lighter flywheel too..... less energy needs to be put into the...

Sounds like a clutch release chatter interacting with the natural resonant frequency of the spring and axle wrap. That is always there unless some positive control is added to stop it. BTW, what DO you have for motor and trans mounts? They are all part of the drivetrain wrap up. I had the...

BTW, I have used pilot bearings in cranks. I always carried a spare in the pit truck in rallies as the grease can dry out in hard hot racing. This may not be much of a factor here so YMMV. If a bushing gets dry and wears, the oil in the Oilite bronze bushing will come into play. So I kinda like...

Since you bought the present piece from Brewer's, maybe just give them a call. Is the engine here a /6?

Do you have the overcenter spring up in the pedals? That is there to help work the B&B's heavier spring pressures. I'd do that before changing the pressure plate springs. Over-center spring install question... This may not be of any help but from my '62 FSM is shows for V8 clutches: Orange...

Yes, the pilot is an interference fit; when right, it needs to be lightly driven in. Get a new one and try it but if that is loose too, then something is going to have to be done to machine an oversize pilot bushing, or take out the crank, have the pilot hole turned oversize, and a steel bushing...

And get a newt TO bearing too; you mentioned some roughness.... they should be silky smooth. I have had new ones with a bit of roughness and did not use them just in case they were going to go bad fast.

If it is a problem, you will hear some noise come back....TO bearing noises are pretty obvious if you pay attention.... as it seems the OP is.

Yep, that is the conclusion... a finger hit that spring. I will say this: The OP is doing a good job of looking at all aspects of this, and is bound to get this sorted out. That Z-bar bushing is.... um, interesting! I found some info on the PP: it appears that the PHT C1647 pressure plate was...

I never though of a clutch being tunable... that is new! I used one SI clutch on a turbo rally car, and it worked fine but my clutch technique is pretty good, and any lack of smoothness would be somewhat masked on gravel anyway. And, in rally cars, you aren't putting out 500 HP (since you can't...

Generally to pull it you: 1. Drain trans and pull drive shaft 2. Disconnect shifter and linkage and revise switch wire 3. Disconnect clutch linkage and speedo cable 4. Support trans and remove trans bolts to bell housing and drop cross member 5. Slowly pull trans out straight out the back of the...

Sintered iron...Read up on the universal recommendations for an improved flywheel before trying one. This point has not been discussed yet. For everyday street use, I'd for sure be going with a disc with a sprung hub. I can't find an SI one that has anything but a solid hub, which makes sense...

Always! Regardez vous....

Ahah..... My brain was still with vntd and his terrain around north central NC. There seem to be several different apps here... or I am just no keeping up! LOL. For a straight road, semi-drag race, yeah, that is not what I was thinking about. Carry on.... As for the story about the other guy...

This idea is a possible fault with your analysis; I can show you lots of turns around here where 15-30 mph is the min speed for someone really driving hard and a 3.09 is just a bad idea; there will be a dead zone where 1st is too high and 2nd is too low, or you have to extend the torque band...

That is a cool collection of older Mopar pocket rockets! LOL My own thinking about an A body for rallying does not even consider a 3.09 1st ...it is between the 2.66 and the 2.47 1st gear. My planning for an Opel Manta for rally using a 5 speed T-5 was to start with a 2.22 1st....

I'll add a comment: vntd is in central NC in the low foothills; a 3.09 won't get as much use unless he is driving in town a lot. A 2.66 will be a lot more useful roaring around the southern Appalachians; finding the right gear in sharp hairpins turns requires a useful 1st from time to time, and...

IIRC, the old direct drive starter used the 143T.... even in cars. It went to 130T when the gear reduction design came into production in the early 60's.

That is nice to be able to make parts like that.

x2.... It is a bit on the large side of recommended tolerance. Putting in a new bushing is pretty easy if you want more peace of mind.

The 3-4 lever points down in the OD, and in the normal up direction in the non-OD. Assumes the levers are there and on right as 67Dart273 states..... Pix of OD trans here: http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,11581.0.html

If you get the leg at the wrong angle, you WILL lose a TON or travel.

The older FSM's actually call it an 'anti-rattle spring' .

Both... and I agree that you should do that after you check your clutch fork setup. Did you take a pix of the fork and fork pivot point by any chance, that you could post? There are several different forks and pivots. You can look on the Brewer's site to see the pix, and see if you think you...

There was a guy from Australia on here not long ago, and he worked and worked on the same problem. Turned out it was mostly the motor and trans misaligned with the body. The Z- bar was not properly level and that will take away from some of the throw capability of the linkage. The fact that your...

Weight transfer (to the rear) and everything that will improve 60 ft times will only make things the same or worse; you can only improve 60' times with more torque through the drivetrain...... cue the "Twilight Zone" theme... Find out how much the present rebuild will cost so you can see what...

Screwed in is interesting.... but it is not structurally as sound; one would expect the screws to work loose after a while with chassis twisting and bending. Not sure how Stitch weld; that will hold adequately. If you want a continuous weld, you need to do it in a few passes, with an inch every...

Good advice on the auto but the 4 speed appeal is understood.... With the hard coupling of the drivetrain on a 4 speed in a racing discipline that emphasizes maximum traction, the impact loads are always going to be rough. Some gear oils like RedLine advertise better shock proofing, but I can't...

You're gonna end up with around .070" wall thickness, or half of the .141" OD-ID. The original works out to .093" wall thickness. So you're not going way down. I have not done that; but expect it would work. Any problem with just turning the ID of the crank to the right size?