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"chunk" (brick hittin' me upside the head sound), you're right Pat. Suspension was fully extended which should only happen when doing jumps! I ended up ordering another longer version. If i use that, only I will know it. Right? Thank you everyone for the reply's.

Yes, this is all 1971

All stock, numbers matching '71 Demon 340. Breather is in correct spot on top of axle. Even though the connection between the hard brake line and the hose drop wasn't used properly, the bracket was still there. The top bolt in this pic shows where the bracket mounts. To the right of that bolt...

I have stock everything on my Demon340, 8-3/4, new brake lines, new hanger clips, stock dual mufflers, stock brass axle Tee Block, stock brake line bracket that holds rear drop hose that mounts on the topside of the muffler hanger bracket. The stock rear brake drop hose does not reach the tee...

I was looking for riveted because the self-proclaimed expert down the street said it’s the only way to go. I agree with you. Today’s technology is much advanced. ThxU

I just finished a research project on the NAPA website and i couldn't see exactly where they have riveted shoes for a 71 Demon. I've had boring ole' regular shoes for 25 years so i'll just stay with those. Thx all

I just finished the book version of that documentary and YES, i agree, it's riveting ;)

My local Autozone & O'Riely's tell me they don't have a source for RIVETED rear 10"x1.75" brake shoes! Does anyone make these now? Thx ahead

Who has the most/best complete resto kit of rear 10" drums brake parts? While the backs are apart it would be a good time to totally replace everything. Thanks

Thanks, Mancini isin town here.

yes the MC is correct. Why can't I use the correct outside diameter rubber hose and slice it the correct width as the current seal is?

So I really need that little rubber seal at the end of the rod. This one goes in but when I try to pull the rod out...it comes out by hand....and it shouldn't. Somebody has to sell these. Any help is appreciated. Thanks.

Where can I get the little rubber seal that goes on the end of the brake pedal rod that goes into the back of the master cylinder AND the rubber boot?

DGE7070, I am just about done changing over my 4" front drum brakes back to the original non-power K-H front disc. After looking at what Jim V (71GTX) offers....BUY THAT ! I easily have $700+ into this and took over a year to find new original style parts. My2cents.

Thanks

Nope, pic's work best. Spindle seal for KH front disc. I don't think it matters which direction

So which direction does the open end of the disc brake seal go? Does the open end go towards the engine? You/I can't tell by the Service Manual print. Thax

4" Drum setup is off and now the reassembly of a 4" KH non-power front disc assembly starts. My problem, I can't find a step by step instruction. Can anyone suggest a link or video to watch? Thankx

5 x 4" SBP K-H, the car was restified 23 years ago and the guys that did it took off the K-H front non-pwr disc brakes and put on 10" drums....i'm going back to original. My Chassis Service Manual from 1971 doesn't have any good pics

Lost everything off my old laptop and I could use this. Has anyone done an article on a 10" drum swap to 4" KH Disc? thanks

Thanks. The lines were new in '95. I bought the smaller wheel cylinders for the back drums. Those will be new. I do have a compressor to blow thru.

Converting 10" Drums to KH non-power Disc and I have old MC off so what's the easiest, cleanest way to flush the lines of the old, very dirty fluid? Thx

I picked up some of the REM bare metal product and it works great on some fender brackets. Anyone have pics of it on brake parts? Thanks

I was up under there looking at that and couldn't really figureout how that releases.

That's the little things that make jobs go so much smoother, thanks

I picked up a complete emergency brake system from Inline Tube because it was a great show price. Anything I should watch for or watchout for when replacing the old system? Thanks in advance.

Want to get rid of black paint job on MC and paint it cast iron gray. How do I preserve the gray cast look after it's installed? Thanks for your tips.

Thanks for all the reply's, it helps many of us. My reasoning for thinking about switching is I understand DOT5 does not hurt the paint if the cover leaks. My firewall is destroyed under the MC by an old drip.

So i've been told switching over to DOT5, you have to drain the complete brake system, disc/drum sbp, and then flush the system with something. What should I flush it with? Thanks