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I love my 318. Its not perfect but it goes great. I have what I believe is a 76 or 78 318 block......J heads......a 650 edelbrock carb, edelbrock performer manifold, dougs headers...727 tranny w/ 2400 stall..... Wish I had more low end, but that is the purple cam thats in it....LOTS of top end.

I had a problem like yours recently, although it revved ok...but all the other symptoms. Truns out it was the idle breather tubes on my edelbrock. I had to use a paint nozzle cleaning wire in one of the, as it was obstructed. Still idles rough due to my cam but it will idle all day now...

I agree! Awesome posts! Especially helpful is the short piece about how to check the operation of the eddie step up pistons!

So, the OP had asked if running 42* total will hurt anything. If more advance is better for low end, why not run the 42 provided there is no pinging? That is about where I am..(base is around 18 as I recall)..plugs look good, no pinging ever, even on 87 octane. I am running an off-the-shelf...

Whoops! Ok, I figured I was off...LOL Thanks!

SO what is involved with "filing the slots or brazing the slots" ?? How tough is it to get "the correct yoke" ??? Any pics of this procedure??

Great article...thanks for posting it! Question -- I always thought that more advance meant more top end and less bottom end....is that true?

I used a chain , a couple bolts and some big flat washers.....

Stock engine and carb or aftermarket stuff? My 318 has a cam in it and an eddy carb..... I ended up with 17* advance at idle and 54* (pretty sure thats what it is) all in with the vac advance..... I still had some stall issues...found that replacing the standard stall convertor with a TCI...

"Tarantula"...sounds creepy.....LOL

I thought dimming lights on these older cars was "normal" when the engine idles too low, as in when it wants to die out? I have a big cam in my 318 and when she idles in drive the lights do dim....no problem once I get off of idle.

Now that is a genuinely neat idea to try! Would have never thought of that. Does it really work??

Its amazing how a burnout can turn an otherwise mature adult male into a laughing fool.....I am talking about ME!!!!!! LOVED THE CLIPS! Thank goodness it almost spring!

I always wonder about the guys saying they get 20 mpg with a 318.... I have a 92 Dakota pickup and it has the magnum 318, 3.91s , auto tranny with OD......I generally get about 10-11 around town and 12-13 highway.....My 03 Durango has the 360.....same gears, auto tranny with OD...same gas...

Yes, sound is created by way of vibration. Keep in mind that sound is the RESULT of vibration at a certain frequency. And not all vibration results in a sound, at least not one that is audible to humans. Vibration can also be caused by numerous other mechanical issues. Droning is a term used...

How does one check the "clocking" ? That has promise. But I thought there was really only two ways to put each yoke on and that it made no diff. ?? I was looking at the "rotor phasing" post again and still cant figure that out.....the line on the rotor as viewed thru a hole in the cap would...

No, I looked.....I didnt see anyone posting ny posts saying "I have a vibration that shakes the car/steering wheel/seat and when I changed my exhaust it went away !" "Drones" went away or were changed. I see lots of people talking about an audible drone or "resonance"....every time I have ever...

I still dont think that any exhaust system will cause a physical vibration or harmonic. (understanding that "harmonic" can apply to a sound wave or a physical vibration wave) Yes, I have a "drone" at certain rpms.......in fact I have that in my durango with an aftermarket exhaust too to some...

Am I missing something? I have read that link a few times and can find no reference to feeling physical vibrations due to exhaust...they talk about vibration, but in a sound-related sense. ????

Can you go into more detail on what this is and how you checked this? I dont think this is my issue, really, as I have actually swapped out my distributor once already....and unless BOTh were off..well, not likely...but I wouldnt mind checking this if it works for you.....

Well, not sure that the hood being up and vibrating tells much..... It just says that there is movement. Also, there are many things that can come together to cause a harmonic like we are talking about.....and various degrees of vibration. To be very honest, I am skeptical that mufflers...

When do you plan on doing the swap? Interested to see if this cures it for you or not. Thing is, my system is a magnaflow.....a major brand, complete kit, and popular. If this kit was inducing a vibration, surely it would be all over the web by now. I plan on checking the driveshaft...

$50 eh? Ouch. My guess is thats what on there now...mopar perf....they are black rubber.....didnt check for a core though. Maybe I will just use some permatex or grey stuff and try that. For as much as I (dont) need to get in them, probably be fine I guess....permatex will seal...

Hey Rumble...not to jack the thread but was wondering if you could clarify a little as to what you think is low, etc..... My 318 runs about 60-75 psi when cold......after running a while, it drops to about 30 in drive at idle...about 40 in neutral at idle....but jumps back up to 60-75 as...

I have a 318 and mopar perf. aluminum valve covers.... It has rubber gaskets right now and they have a few small seepages..... What do you guys like as far as gaskets? Would prefer reusables "just in case".....but I want a good seal. Was considering the moroso 93050 rubber/steel...

I have a similar vibe myself...almost a carbon copy of what the OP said. It was REALLY bad with the stock torque convertor....I went to a higher stall convertor (2400) and it was radically reduced but I still have "some" ... Now, I have a magnaflow exhaust with an X pipe and I still have...

Just remember that when you pull that bolt withoutdraining the system first , coolant will shoot out of it like niagra falls...LOL Ask me how I learned THAT. :angry7:

Ok...found the answer on a.....:pukel: CHEVY site! LOL You turn BOTh rear tires at the same time. I made a mark on each tire, referencing it with the backing plate...then made a mark on the oke, referenced to the chunk. Laid under the back of the car and rotated each tire at the same rate...

Must be different indeed.....if I try this method on the car, the tire goes around one full turn and the shaft moves 1.25 turns!

Ok, so can I in theory run what I am running (a stock convertor) with what I have until I figure out the gears and such that I want to go with without hurting anything? Sorry guys....I am really a newbie at this stuff....learning as I go. I probably picked the hardest combination I could have...