Search results for query: *

heres the slider manfr and a link to thier site http://www.afcoracing.com/tech_pages/leaf.shtml and where i bought them https://www.reillymotorsports.com/store/product.php?productid=16158&cat=253&page=1

4 speed shift rod bushings may be close

if you junked the rear shackles and use sliders that will lower the car 3-4". if thats too low then a spacer can be added between the slider and the frame.

sounds like you need to swap them left to right to get the bleeder on top.

i wouldnt even mess with fixing that. get a set of sliders and weld to the bottom of the frame rail

its been a little over a year ago

iirc they are standard 5 leaf

i bought the jcw springs and am happy with them. the car sits right and the price was right. they seem to have deals on shipping quite often. if you do order them, double check the front mount bolt size. there are 2 different sizes

cheap heat gun and a putty knife. no chemicals, no flammables and you wont blow yourself up. easy clean up

my jc whitney springs are marked the same. except for the mehico part

that should work fine. you can always shim either way if needed

i THINK that left and right were odd and even #'s. odd #'s being the drivers side. if you have both even #'s then something may be wrong.

i wouls check the rear t bar socket also. probably not but it may be broken

heres how i did mine. try a search and im sure you'll find more and better ways http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=26263

find a holesaw that will fit over the stud, a drill press and a bit of gear oil to lube the holesaw. couple minutes apiece and theres no damage to the studs.

it will. but if you are using new perches then you would set the pinion angle before welding the perches. there are also shims to install between the spring and axle to correct pinion angle. i havent welded mine yet. im waiting to get the motor, trans, fuel tank and all the weight back on the...

iirc the 295 is 12.2" wide thats a nice kit. the perches are the ones i was talking about. heres an interesting read on rear springs and how what does what. check out the slider rear shackles http://www.afcoracing.com/tech_pages/leaf.shtml

if you narrow the rear, get the mp spring perches. they have 3 holes in them so you can move the rear forward or rearward 1". a 275-60-15 is 28" and 11" wide but max recommended rim width is 9.5" heres a rpm calculator near the bottom of the page. http://www.mopartech.net/mtcalcs.htm

seems like maybe 20 ga

jims is one of those places that you dont want to buy from. do a search on them and you will see why

ive never heard a good thing about jims auto parts and have never seen a steering coupler seal that stayed on

ok, that makes sense. i can see that the firmfeel rear bar wont work since i have moved the leafsprings in. i can also see where there would be more clearance for exhaust with axle mounted bars

id like to see some pics of your car too!

heres a thread on fast ratios http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=23453&highlight=steering and firmfeel http://firmfeel.com/manualst.htm id offer maybe $200 and go from there. never know, that may be way more then he was hoping to get

i have the upper and lower ball joint seals and only 3 tie rod seals. i dont know where #4 went

ok guys this may sound stupid, but why do the front bar ends mount to the control arms and the rear bar ends mount to the frame? kinda opposite of the front. vkarapanos, are those parts that attach to lca's what came with the kit? they do look kind of cheesy. i see why you welded them

i have a set of the poly seals id sell

id bet 67 and later is later. it seems that was the turning point as far as interchangability

jahsh, im curious, did you use the lca reinforcment plates that are welded on the bottom? do you think they are nessesary? i also would like to see some pics of your sway bar sb