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Slitting the floor and installing through the floor rectangular tube of fairly large cross section (2X4, 3X3, 3x4, etc.) welded to the crossmembers and where it butts the floor panels encroaches on the rear footwell space, but is generally considered the most rigid. Unless the under the floor...

How often do you take your emergency break?

Mounts for the steering box and idler arm don't change 68 to 76, but complete assembly of pitman, idler, and tie rod centerlink need to match. 68 to 72 centerlinks mount above arms and middle is lower than ends to clear oil pan. 73 and later mount below the arms and is straighter. Tie rod...

Been rehashed here many times: Basic suspension parameters of the Mustang II and longitudinal torsion bar suspension as used in the A body cars are very similar and benefit from similar upgrades to the bushings, spring, shock, stabilizer bar, wheels, and tires, provided the basic structure has...

I feel the same way about using brute force and/or stupidity techniques to unseat ball joints and ruin boots as Mopar Action's E Booger. Harbor Freight sells a tool to do this job for under 20 bucks and my neighbor was actually able to to get a couple of uses out of his, bought on sale for 12...

Go to FirmFeel.com and look at what they do. The pictures of reinforced K frames on their website are worth studying if you are trying to do your own. Dick Ross and company have been doing this for years and can answer just about any question you could come up with. If you do not want to make...

Not to rain on anyones parade because it's been hashed out here many times, but in a word, YES, the factory, and at no extra charge to anyone that owns a muscle era Mopar. Better suspension parameters than contemporary offerings from ANYONE ELSE, including the much touted MustangII (actually...

I thought about buying the set of tools sold to blow the front end components apart, but being that I had already made a torsion remover tool, and have had the ball joint socket in my tool box for a long time, I went out and bought an on sale 20 ton Harbor Freight press that made short work of...

Dick Ross at Firm Feel has been beefing up K frames for years. Go to their website and check them out. If you do not want to spend the money to have them do it for you, and are good at seeing what is needed and making templates (patterns) and know how to run a wire machine, reinforcing the K...

I agree. I've had good luck doing this; Try raising the front tires off the ground. With the motor idling, slowly (one RPM for starters) rotate the steering wheel lock to lock. Everytime you are just short of full lock, pause for about 30 seconds or so. Five or six times in both directions...

BINGO! Maybe the low cost solution to the front steer discussion should be about manufacturing proper steering arms for front steer applications that mate up (bolt on!) to the stock uprights. If the steering arm places the tie rod end properly, minimal bumpsteer and correct Ackerman for ANY...

Discounting contributing factors like vehicle weight, tire size (primarily footprint), and power steering variances (pump pressures, etc.), the design items that contribute to steering effort are king pin inclination, caster angle, and wheel offset. King pin inclination takes the pivot axis...

Don't get caught up in the bigger is better idiom when it comes to choosing suspension components. Sure it would be nice to have double adjustable, 200 buck a corner, shocks on the car, but as long as you don't go overboard with the spring/stabilizer bar rates, an everyday shock like the KYBs...

Can you get it high enough to engage a couple of threads? Make sure there is nothing (like wires or wiring loom) between the column and the mounting yoke, or hanging down under the dash and pushing on the column itself. Could be as simple as the shift linkage fighting you. The plastic spacers...

Are you feeling or seeing the "wabble"? If the car feels like it's hopping up and down on one corner, it's probably a worn out or broken shock. It the wheel is spinning off axis, look for a bent rim, bent drive axle, and/or loose lug nuts.

Works well, especially on Dusters/Demons with their wider rear fenders, but I have seen them used successfully on Darts and A body Barracudas with the right wheel/tire combination. If you want to run large diameter, wide width, late model wheels with their huge offset, a B body rear end can...

I wasn't questioning the quality of the rod ends you intended using, but rather playing devil's advocate about the design and metallurgy of an unsupported bolt shaft subjected to the stresses involved. I know the Mustang tuners have used such an arrangement as a solution to bumpsteer problems...

Ditto, and don't forget to check it in all combinations of jounce and rebound throughout the range of steering all the way out to both full right and left lock. Also, although the rod end/bolt arrangement has the possibility of up and down adjustability, you may find shimming of the...

While I like the convenience my spray can Sea Foam Deep Creep banging around in the tool box, even with the cost of Acetone a couple of dollars a gallon higher than last year and a quart of ATF up considerably too, the ATF/acetone mix is bunches cheaper than the now about 10 bucks a can Deep...

Power steering boxes changed to a larger sector shaft in the early 70s. If the shaft diameter and pitman arm splines are the same, it should bolt up, but probably won't feel much different than what he's been living with. Why doesn't he just give Dick Ross a call at Firm Feel. Using one of...

This reply wasn't meant to slight anyone, but there are aways young guns with lots of enthusiasm and little knowledge or experience that need to hear these things.

It's talking about reinstalling the valve body on the top of the steering box, but you'll get the idea. from pages 19-10 and 19-12 (19-11 is a cut away drawing of the steering box) in the '76 factory service manual: (15) Install two screws and tighten to 7 foot pounds to prohibit leakage...

I'm not sure what conversion table you're using, but the wiget on my Mac says 230mm = 9.055 inches. It shows one inch as being 25.4 mm. Just to make sure, I looked at a metal rule with both scales and it's the same. Using the same wiget for a standard V8 .87 diameter bar gives 22.098 mm. An...

I'm with you on reworking the stock K frame and those thinking they're going to shave a bunch of weight by replacing the stock K frame with a fabricated piece made out of tube probably haven't picked up one bare, much less actually weighed it. The factory piece is a pretty tough act to follow...

What you're describing sure sounds like TREAD SEPARATION. If it is, and you keep driving around on it, it WILL come apart. Not if, but when, and when it does, if you're lucky you get to replace the now treadless tire carcass with your spare and be on your way (actually the tread doesn't have...

Aside from it being overbuilt from the factory because it is designed to take the suspension loads, and triangulating a bracket to put the inner end of the control arm in double shear, there is no reason to screw with the K frame at all. Being that all the work is going to be in strengthening...

You'd be amazed what well set up leaf springs can and will do, and the stock Chrysler arrangement is noted for being about the best design in the business. With the right shocks, springs, rear stabilizer bar, and possibly the addition of a panhard rod, you should be able to hang with just about...

Was the bushing loose in the shell when you put it together? With the OEM rubber bushing bonded to the shell to prevent this kind of problem, it stands to reason a loose fit on the urethane bush could have this going on. On their website in the section on adjustable strut rods, Firm Feel...

On 67-72s, the mounting brackets attach to the forward K member pinch flange, should be a couple of holes already there. Easy enough to put your own in otherwise.

If that 74 K is in good shape, make life easy on yourself, just rebuild it and the matching front suspension from it off the car. Allows you to keep the car running while you detail and assemble everything without the car in the way, then install the replacement motor/transmission in it before...