dano
Evil Handy Man
Because it depends on what your going to do with the block. Stocker, Stroker, Endurance, Drag race, coffee table, etc. Its a conversation for you and the guy doing the testing for your build and goal.
.060 Over 340....Your Thoughts?
- Thread starter kend
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Because it depends on what your going to do with the block. Stocker, Stroker, Endurance, Drag race, coffee table, etc. Its a conversation for you and the guy doing the testing for your build and goal.
But...but...but...if I buy a sonic tester I must know this info, what cylinder wall thickness is acceptable for a stock build? Mild street performance? Full race motor (with a 3/4 cam, or is that a 3/4 race motor?)?
For a stock build, if you have .100" on the major thrust, and .070" on the minor thrust, it should be fine. A motor making a lot of power should be more like .180" major and .150" minor. Good luck on that with a stock block.
I will guess, since no one wants to step up to the plate. I thing its like .080" to .100" wall thickness. mild street maybe less........... .050"??????
Edit: I like B3RE spec above ^^^^^^^^^^^^^ better
greymouser7
Vagrant Vagabond “Veni Vidi Vici”
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The block castings are not consistent enough at this bore for anyone to commit to a definite, solid answer. Many are thick enough, many are not. There is a HUGE argument over which years are better, but most posts give a solid 'it should be fine with a .040 over note on 360's, & yet there are web pages like shady dell racing that have stock 340 blocks past a 4.2" bore.
Sonic check it or roll the dice, it's only money.
dano
Evil Handy Man
As long as the 3/4 cam has a 1 wire hook up.....
Mopar92
Well-Known Member
On our .060 over we found .080" estimated on the bottom of the thinnest bore. Some parts were .100" thick yet. I don't know how accurate these tests are but that's what a reputable machine shop told us it was. It was too banged up to continue to mess with it so we scrapped it. It would be interesting to take a .060 block and drill it and just see exactly. I imagine core shift was all over the place.
Food for thought. The CID between a .040 over 340 and a .060 over 340 is about 3 1/2 CID. So, a mild 340 build would be lucky to make 1 hp per CID. So why would anyone risk boring further than needed for 3 1/2 hp. Just saying. Mark
I've been telling people that for..... Forever!
But, everyone wants max bore.
But, everyone wants max bore.
moper
Well-Known Member
Food for thought. The CID between a .040 over 340 and a .060 over 340 is about 3 1/2 CID. So, a mild 340 build would be lucky to make 1 hp per CID. So why would anyone risk boring further than needed for 3 1/2 hp. Just saying. Mark
^^Yup.
Ring seal makes more power than bigger bores. Period. You need a stable wall long before you need that extra .030". Boring is needed - to re-establish the geometry of a factory machined and worn block and provide the best up-to-date technology for maximum efficiency and power.
If you want to buy a sonic tester, buy a good one that is certified. That means over $1000 for it, and it should be one that can be calibrated on your material - not preset for various materials. You also need the right transducer - those are $250 each. The wrong radius there will skew the results.
As far as "pass" vs "fail", it's just as they say - depends on what you plan to do with it. I get nervous with anything on either thrust under .150, minor thrust under .110". That being said - I have built an engine with less because the owner took responsibility for that decision. It's his money so it's up to him. I can only report what I find and give my recommendation. I'll also add - that engine (big block) is making 1.2hp/inch and has had no cooling or strength issues.
Plymouth Power
Active Member
Did you notice any difference between the X heads and when you swapped to the W-2's?
yeah..the x heads were faster
RAMM
Well-Known Member
Somebody like Jesus himself worked your X heads or somebody really messed up your W2's. I mean every set I have ever seen went 231 cfm out of the box-but the potential is incredible. J.Rob
p.s. Sorry for the hijack.
Concerning the bore thing-yes thicker is better especially in this case. Often people ask for a large overbore and they think .030" is the ****--Until I get my calipers and open it to .015" hold it up and show them what .015" per side looks like. Usually changes their tune. J.Rob
Plymouth Power
Active Member
Ok. I'm asking because I have a pair of X heads that will need a full job: Seats, valves, springs, everything.
I also know of a pair of W-2's that are ready to bolt on.
Just looking for information such as you would have, being a user of both. What were some of the spec's of each set? Did they run approximately the same hardware?
Plymouth Power
Active Member
Firstly I think the hijacking is a non-issue, what I gathered is OP wad just playing around.
To the important part; judging from your word choice you are of the opinion that W-2's should outperform X's. If you could elaborate on this and just lay down some knowledge I would greatly appreciate it.
RAMM
Well-Known Member
I am of the opinion that out of the box 2.02"/1.60" W2's versus the best X heads I have seen that went 271 cfm then no they probably would not outperform the W2's. Now put a die grinder in Ray Charles' hands and 280-290 cfm will surely show up if you position the W2's in front of Ole' Ray. If the W2's don't outperform any OEM Mopar casting than something is seriously wrong with the heads and or the combo. J.Rob
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
Sleeve it and keep it at the least over bore you can.
never said they were on the same car...LOL
Best way to go about saving your block right there.
It could also be a combo dependent issue. Taking off X heads for W2's doesn't automatically means go faster.
.060 . usually puts #5 or #7 through the side of the block on anything higher then a 340-2 block when when hooking up with alot of torque. Use a front and mid plate. Standard mount locations increase the possibility of block flex.
All 410 sprint cars running standard SBM's use 340-1 blocks. They are the strongest and always sonic test the best with concentric wall thickness.Also stud every threaded hole in the block. It does stiffen things up. Alluminum heads make the flex worse.
This is just my experience with standard blocks. I lost many and saw many losses due to this. If your motor and car is a pig it won't matter.
All 410 sprint cars running standard SBM's use 340-1 blocks. They are the strongest and always sonic test the best with concentric wall thickness.Also stud every threaded hole in the block. It does stiffen things up. Alluminum heads make the flex worse.
This is just my experience with standard blocks. I lost many and saw many losses due to this. If your motor and car is a pig it won't matter.
No problem on the hijack, good info so I don't have an issue with it. I pretty much got the info I was looking for but some of the guys missed my humor and got a little sidetracked. I wound up having to only go .040 but had to sleeve 2 cylinders. I was hoping .060 would clean up one of them, hence the question, but it wouldn't so we had to sleeve it.
Thanks for the info guys!
Plymouth Power
Active Member
Hey thanks. I think it's easier to just ask the question here instead of PM-ing or something. Additionally everyone gets to see it, in case they had a similar question.
Probably the best and most experienced post on here.
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