1.5 or 1.6 roller rockers.
- Thread starter 1967formulaS
- Start date
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for what its worth, I run these on my stealth headed 383. I spent last winter blueprinting the rockers and heads.
All is well at 6800 rpm.
All is well at 6800 rpm.
1967formulaS
Well-Known Member
1967formulaS
Well-Known Member
You need clearance throughout the lift cycle. I rounded the nose a little. correct valve stem height is critical.
you need to get the geometry as close as possible. no more than 2.5 threads showing on adjuster and pushrod should be aligned
Take a look at the B3 racing link, he shows before and after geometry. The PRW is similar, if not the same.
1967formulaS
Well-Known Member
Thanks for that. I checked out that B3 site, lots of info. My brain hurts. Lol
I have have an adjustable pushrod and dial indicator, so I'm going to see what the travel is like.
My heads were prepared by an engine shop so I'll go back and double check them.
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
Wait wait wait. Why do those rockers look like they are guided? Meaning why does the rocker stick down below the valve? That isn't correct.
Also, if you need to move the rocker over, just file down the hold down. It ain't hard.
I just don't know why the rockers are guided.
Also, if you need to move the rocker over, just file down the hold down. It ain't hard.
I just don't know why the rockers are guided.
Because they are indeed self aligning. Totally not necessary.
No offense here to the OP, but you will have enough in those after you finally get them right to afford the rockers you say are "not in your budget".
1967formulaS
Well-Known Member
$1800 here for Harlan sharp or comp cams rockers. I just can't do it. Not at least for another 6 months anyway.
Went through the cycle at the instructed 0.014 valve lash.
This left me 6 threads below the rocker and 7 threads above the rocker (with the adjuster nut off) using a 9.250 pushrod.
The contact patch was surprisingly consistent near the centre of the valve stem. The angle of the pushrod was a bit off at full lift.
The gap between the rocker arm and the valve retainer was at 0.022 - 0.024 throughout its travel.
Thoughts....
Went through the cycle at the instructed 0.014 valve lash.
This left me 6 threads below the rocker and 7 threads above the rocker (with the adjuster nut off) using a 9.250 pushrod.
The contact patch was surprisingly consistent near the centre of the valve stem. The angle of the pushrod was a bit off at full lift.
The gap between the rocker arm and the valve retainer was at 0.022 - 0.024 throughout its travel.
Thoughts....
1967formulaS
Well-Known Member
Found B3 profile on here, but his inbox is full. Interested in this geometry correction kit he mentioned in his article.
Maybe this kit along with a slightly longer pushrod is what I need.
Maybe this kit along with a slightly longer pushrod is what I need.
Ain't that a kick in the pants? You never seen those afore? Yeah just let them slap around off the valve tip and guide themselves. The ones that showed up here actually contacted the retainer also. At least that doesn't appear to be a problem this time.
Sorry, I didn't realize I could only have 15 messages. I guess email is a better option to reach me. Inbox is now empty.
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
Honestly, I've never seen those for a Chrysler before. At least not a Chrysler with shaft rockers. For the life of me I can't think of why you'd even want it, let alone need it.
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
Your pushrods are way too short. The rockers will be fine if you correct the geometry. Your best bet is either to email or call Mike at B3 and follow his advice to the letter. If you do, you won't have any issues with almost any rocker you run. The problem isn't always with the rocker itself, but with getting the geometry correct.
BTW, I don't run anything but bushed rockers. Had some needle bearing rockers fail. Never had a bushed rocker fail, not even with 340-350 on the seat and 900 over the nose.
Yep. Here is a picture of those rocker arms on a beehive spring. This type of setup will destroy an engine almost instantly! I'm not sure what the guy who designed those rocker arms was thinking about when he came up with that design but it was wrong. I told PRW about this design problem at least 10 years ago but evidently they never bothered to fix it.
Yes Sir, I noticed the lack of clearance on the nose and corrected it. If you don't, the nose will pop a keeper out.
I researched these rockers before I bought them, I knew what to look for. Oil hole alignment on the shafts was less than desirable.
I researched these rockers before I bought them, I knew what to look for. Oil hole alignment on the shafts was less than desirable.
That isn't a PRW design, it's a Speedmaster aka ProComp design. With enough tip height, they can work, but why do that when it isn't needed. This isn' t the only Mopar specific part that isn't properly designed, though.
Save your pennies ( or whatever your money is called) and get the right stuff the first time. Sell your old parts to someone else. Remember this saying " the quality is remembered long after the price is forgotten."
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
My PRW rockers don't look like that.
Seems the engineer that drew that design hit the hippie lettuce pretty hard.
But they are made at the same factory, just a different part of the building, the early production stage. lol
I wonder, is comp pro mags just down the hall.
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
yellow rose
Overnight Sensation
They look exactly alike, but neither have the guided roller. I'm still stumped over that.
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